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E30-323ti

Adjustable Strut Tops

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Since my E30 is in alot of pieces at the mo I am going to design some camber plates.

I will be speaking to Lewis (SpeedyE30) about the manufacturing costs etc...

So hands up.

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ahem....depending on cost...yes!

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Guest Spargo

To save some trouble, why not just get a set of GC camber plates and make some replicas? No one has to know....

Also, what about rear ones? I've only ever seen K-mac rears, and they're crap. Any chance of designing rear ones that don't suck?

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rear camber plates would be pretty tough....really need to custom weld the subframe...bloody good idea if someone can do it though...how do the k mac ones work sam? front camber isnt anywhere near as much an issue as rear camber is....would be more useful

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wat wood rear ones do, u hav to remember the design in the back of an e30 all u wood b changing wood b ur possion of ur shock which wood not b changing ur camber at all as ur camber is set by the design on the rear swing arm, the only way wood be to make a completly new rear setup (good luck)

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was meaning adjustable through the rear subframe and the trailing arm set up. would be perfect as even lowered front camber isnt too bad, rear camber is harsher on tyres.

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Sam, I put up a tread about rear camber and toe adjusters in the past, they are easy to design just installation is a biarch (pulling the subframe out and welding them on etc...)

If you can afford some GC camber plates for us to copy then that is fine.

They are pretty simple to design, infact I've almost finished it, just a few measurements I still need to do.

The green part has the spherical bearing the the strut bolts to, this is clamped between the red and yellow part using the red studs that go to the strut tower, you loosen the 3 mounting bolts to slide the green plate (strut mount) in and out to change the camber.

post-13-1083283182.jpg

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Guest Spargo

Quite....

What are they going to be made from?

Approx price?

Will they have engravings to show exactly what you're doing when you move the plate?

How will this affect the fitting of a Sparco Strut brace?

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wouldnt you need to somehow cut a hole in the top of the strut tower so there was enough room to move the strut around? im hoping the struts would be secure enough? and as for rear subframe...when you say the word ill send you mine down glenn!

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Yellow aluminium and red/green steel, spherical bearing c/o SKF.

Prolly not Sam (depends what Lewis's tools can do).

You shouldn't be changing the camber on the fly anyway as it effects the toe settings also, so should only be done when getting a wheel alignment, but if you check what is changes when you get an alignment it might be OK.

you don't need to move it far Gus, so no gaping holes req'd.

ps. that green bit at the front in the pic shouldn't stick out past the yellow bit, still fine tuning.

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