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Water leak in trunk

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Hi,

I've got a water leak in my trunk and have plugged about 4 holes already (leaking through aerial points, taillights etc) but I still have one more I've yet to trace.

The water only leaks in if the car is parked on a downhill slope and is angled so the left wheels are sitting higher than the right (water then pools towards the upper right-hand-side of the trunk lid.

If you're looking inside the trunk the water seems to dribble down from the small gap between the right-hand-side of the car and the enclosure the wheel is sitting (underneath) in.

I have tried the usual (blocked drainage pipes from the sunroof) but have no idea where that small gap leads as it's a difficult angle to see at.

Could it be a cracked drainage pipe? The water running underneath the right-hand corner of the back windshield?

Any ideas appreciated. The panel beaters gave me a refund as they couldn't be of any help with their water tests.

//Jono

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when you park with the car facing down hill the water pools behind the rubber seal until it overflows into the boot.Ive seen it in a few E30 even with boot seals that look to be in good condition.Park facing up hill????

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when you park with the car facing down hill the water pools behind the rubber seal until it overflows into the boot.Ive seen it in a few E30 even with boot seals that look to be in good condition.Park facing up hill????

The thing is it doesn't appear to be coming from above (i.e. the trunk seal). It is trickling down from that small gap I described.

All of the lining in the trunk remains dry when it rains, but it is underneath it that the water pools.

I have also sat inside the trunk when it has been raining and watched it come out from that place. I just have no idea what is actually behind that wheel well or where it could be coming in from.

If a picture would help to show exactly where it is coming out from I can borrow a digital camera and take a picture.

Any advice would be appreciated.

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Yeah pics would help. Was havng the same problem on both sides and the tail light gaskets, and trunk gaskets were replaced.

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Guest costarica320i

got the same problem, mine is an 85, 320i german version.

is winter here in costa rica and rains a lot all day (this is a tropical Forrest).

I need to know how to this!

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Found this on the net, might help

Problem:

The well known and dreaded E30 Trunk leaks

Problem Description:

Water leaking into the rear wells eg: jack storage well and battery well, one or both.

The problem continues in spite of the usual remedies recommended and attempted:

a) Trunk gasket - inspected and ok,

B) rear tail light gaskets - replaced

c) sunroof drains - clear

d) rocker panel vents - ok

e) trunk well vents - ok.

Problem Source:

Having attempted the usual remedies, water continued to be apparent in the jack well of my car [E30 -1987 325is]. I attempted to identify the particular area causing the leak by isolating the trunk, rear window, and trim pieces at various times with Hefty trash bags, masking tape and the liberal application of water via the garden hose.

I determined that the trunk seal was not leaking, sun roof drains were not in play, and the new tail light gaskets indeed allowed no water entry to the trunk. With the entire trunk, lights, and sunroof virtually waterproof in the Hefty bag cocoon the water still managed to get into the well.

Discounting shrink wrapping the entire car during the rainy season, the leak area was identified as coming from around the rear pop-out side window.

Most likely suspect was mounting holes for the exterior rear chrome trim that runs from the rain gutter to the body at the rear of the pop-out window. It appeared that one or more of the attachments could be aged, damaged, or just plain not sealing.

I ordered the new parts for the attachment of the trim panel to the body (parts for 1 side);

Gasket3  51-13-1-904-479

Gasket3  51-13-1-904-479

Grommet 3 51-13-1-870-459

Grommet 1 51-14-1-902-279

I pulled off the chrome trim and with proper parts in hand for replacement decided on a final confirmation that I had indeed pin pointed the source.

I taped over the trim attachment holes in the body where the new grommets would go, taped/sealed off the trunk, sunroof etc. again and applied the water.

&^#(*-#, still leaking.

The now only other possible source of water was the window/ window seal itself?

The back seat, side panel trim, rear deck, trunk liner etc were all removed for inspection (yet again).

Applying water, the leak was indeed evident from inside the car at the rear of the window. The water would drip onto the metal that forms the deck support and either run forward on the wheel well into the interior, or rearward under the trunk liner on track into the rear jack well.

Removal of the widow gasket itself revealed that the gasket was wet in the center from an area about half-way up the rear window, down to the horizontal part of the gasket.

The water was obviously gaining entry to the center channel of the gasket, tracking down the gasket (gravity) and the water would enter the interior where the body panels are spot welded together, between the weld points.

As the gasket looked to be in good shape despite its age, the idea of a new replacement (43$) was discarded as the A-plan. The reasoning here, in addition to being thrifty (cheap?) is that a new gasket may have the same problem, and that the glass installers always use bedding compounds for glass and gasket work even with new gaskets. No sealer or other material was evident in the gasket channel. At the local auto body paint and supply store, I sourced a tube of 3M Automotive Bedding and Glazing Compound Part # 08509. Quoting from the tube; "A non-hardening water resistant, medium bodied product for sealing auto body seams and between windshield rubber and car body.

Can also be used to seal around moldings and to attach door watershields. Remains permanently soft and pliable to absorb movement in auto body."

Remedy:

With the gasket out, apply a bead of the Bedding and Glazing around the perimeter of the gasket in the center of the gasket channel where the gasket will actually contact the body work.

I also applied the sealer into the gaps formed at the joining of the body panels around the window before re-installing the gasket. The gasket was re-installed, window re-installed and adjusted, and the compound allowed to set up for 24 hours. Further water testing showed that my particular leak had indeed been cured.

Result:

It is now 12 months later and into the second rainy season on the 'fix'. No water is are has been evident since resealing the window gasket.

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