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robert.fowler

Needs more power

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Jason this is my thread.Have a look from page one there are plenty of pics.

Your tacho will need modding to work on the toyota had mine done has to have electronic board added,costs

about $300

cant seem to find your photo's on your profile

cheers

Robert

Glenn got my tach going for $100. Give him a call, got it sorted asap, great guy.

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Nice conversion mate,In my experience those enclosed airfilters can only flow approx 180hp so maybe try fitting a mesh type pod with more surface area,worth a try

Darren

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What do u mean by closed in type air filter SRBMW? Are you refering to just like a factory air filter or the common pod filters?

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If you have a look a couple pages back you will see in the second pic the type i'm talking bout.An enclosed aftermarket pod type filter has plastic/carbon looking surround,a friend had one on a wrx and wouldn't allow the car to flow enough air and was holding it around at 180hp.They just don't have enough surface area,Had a similar problem with that 1uzfett with some simota filters they couldn't flow more than 70hp!! gotta spend the money on a K&N

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Oh phew i thought u were just meaning your typical k&n type pod filters. Now I see that carbon style one makes sense about how it restricts air flow, cheers man

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Hey there guys, sorry to bump an old thread. Just a few quick questions;

i) Did you use the factory Toyota ECU/Loom and if so, did it affect any other systems?

ii) Did anything have to be modified to accomodate the engine? (i.e steering rack etc.?)

iii) Did you pass the certification with standard brakes/suspension or have they been upgraded?

Thanks in advance if you're able to lend any advice.

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Hey there guys, sorry to bump an old thread. Just a few quick questions;

i) Did you use the factory Toyota ECU/Loom and if so, did it affect any other systems?

ii) Did anything have to be modified to accomodate the engine? (i.e steering rack etc.?)

iii) Did you pass the certification with standard brakes/suspension or have they been upgraded?

Thanks in advance if you're able to lend any advice.

Here are the answers you wanted

1)used factory toyota ecu/loom.all bmw systems are separate,just needed to have tach modded to work and temp gauge changed as is controlled by bmw computer which no longer exists.

2)the only mod in the engine bay is to move the abs pump.I also used a custom sump.

3)passed cert no probs with standard brakes,i have uprated the suspension and lowered car.

Any other questions just ask

Robert

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Here are the answers you wanted

1)used factory toyota ecu/loom.all bmw systems are separate,just needed to have tach modded to work and temp gauge changed as is controlled by bmw computer which no longer exists.

2)the only mod in the engine bay is to move the abs pump.I also used a custom sump.

3)passed cert no probs with standard brakes,i have uprated the suspension and lowered car.

Any other questions just ask

Robert

Cool, thanks for the reply. Talked to an auto sparky mate of mine and He's going to sort my wiring. Just a couple more questions;

i) Engine mounts. I'm going to make mine out of mild steel. I want to have an RHS middle section, ends cut to the right angle with a bracket welded on each end. One bolting to the engine block and the other bolting to the existing rubber/steel mount. Will this work?

ii) How is your diff/driveline holding up? I'll probably have to upgrade mine to a 6-cylinder unit or something aftermarket as my car's only a 318iS.

Thanks again for the answers. My immediate plans are on hold for now anyway. Have to save some money up just incase our workforce goes on strike in March.

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Cool, thanks for the reply. Talked to an auto sparky mate of mine and He's going to sort my wiring. Just a couple more questions;

i) Engine mounts. I'm going to make mine out of mild steel. I want to have an RHS middle section, ends cut to the right angle with a bracket welded on each end. One bolting to the engine block and the other bolting to the existing rubber/steel mount. Will this work?

ii) How is your diff/driveline holding up? I'll probably have to upgrade mine to a 6-cylinder unit or something aftermarket as my car's only a 318iS.

Thanks again for the answers. My immediate plans are on hold for now anyway. Have to save some money up just incase our workforce goes on strike in March.

1) your engine mount idea will work okay.Engine will move around abit sitting on those bmw donut style mounts

2)6 cyl diff okay so far with car now being manual.

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hey nice conversion man, it looks good.

i've just found this and was reading and noticed the first hydraulic release bearing you had, cos i had one of those between my 1uz and w58 too, and it too crapped out on me. it lasted about an hour each time before it would break the seal and I'd have to pull the car completely to bits to fix it. I too went for a completely new setup, so I feel ya pain there. its bloody annoying (and expensive) having things re-done.

have you thrown it down the quarter yet?

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