drifty325i 0 Report post Posted October 17, 2008 Jason this is my thread.Have a look from page one there are plenty of pics. Your tacho will need modding to work on the toyota had mine done has to have electronic board added,costs about $300 cant seem to find your photo's on your profile cheers Robert Glenn got my tach going for $100. Give him a call, got it sorted asap, great guy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SRBMW 6 Report post Posted December 21, 2008 Nice conversion mate,In my experience those enclosed airfilters can only flow approx 180hp so maybe try fitting a mesh type pod with more surface area,worth a try Darren Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted December 23, 2008 What do u mean by closed in type air filter SRBMW? Are you refering to just like a factory air filter or the common pod filters? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SRBMW 6 Report post Posted December 24, 2008 If you have a look a couple pages back you will see in the second pic the type i'm talking bout.An enclosed aftermarket pod type filter has plastic/carbon looking surround,a friend had one on a wrx and wouldn't allow the car to flow enough air and was holding it around at 180hp.They just don't have enough surface area,Had a similar problem with that 1uzfett with some simota filters they couldn't flow more than 70hp!! gotta spend the money on a K&N Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boost Junky 1 Report post Posted December 25, 2008 Oh phew i thought u were just meaning your typical k&n type pod filters. Now I see that carbon style one makes sense about how it restricts air flow, cheers man Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Motorbreath 0 Report post Posted January 10, 2009 Hey there guys, sorry to bump an old thread. Just a few quick questions; i) Did you use the factory Toyota ECU/Loom and if so, did it affect any other systems? ii) Did anything have to be modified to accomodate the engine? (i.e steering rack etc.?) iii) Did you pass the certification with standard brakes/suspension or have they been upgraded? Thanks in advance if you're able to lend any advice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robert.fowler 0 Report post Posted January 11, 2009 Hey there guys, sorry to bump an old thread. Just a few quick questions; i) Did you use the factory Toyota ECU/Loom and if so, did it affect any other systems? ii) Did anything have to be modified to accomodate the engine? (i.e steering rack etc.?) iii) Did you pass the certification with standard brakes/suspension or have they been upgraded? Thanks in advance if you're able to lend any advice. Here are the answers you wanted1)used factory toyota ecu/loom.all bmw systems are separate,just needed to have tach modded to work and temp gauge changed as is controlled by bmw computer which no longer exists. 2)the only mod in the engine bay is to move the abs pump.I also used a custom sump. 3)passed cert no probs with standard brakes,i have uprated the suspension and lowered car. Any other questions just ask Robert Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Motorbreath 0 Report post Posted January 16, 2009 Here are the answers you wanted 1)used factory toyota ecu/loom.all bmw systems are separate,just needed to have tach modded to work and temp gauge changed as is controlled by bmw computer which no longer exists. 2)the only mod in the engine bay is to move the abs pump.I also used a custom sump. 3)passed cert no probs with standard brakes,i have uprated the suspension and lowered car. Any other questions just ask Robert Cool, thanks for the reply. Talked to an auto sparky mate of mine and He's going to sort my wiring. Just a couple more questions;i) Engine mounts. I'm going to make mine out of mild steel. I want to have an RHS middle section, ends cut to the right angle with a bracket welded on each end. One bolting to the engine block and the other bolting to the existing rubber/steel mount. Will this work? ii) How is your diff/driveline holding up? I'll probably have to upgrade mine to a 6-cylinder unit or something aftermarket as my car's only a 318iS. Thanks again for the answers. My immediate plans are on hold for now anyway. Have to save some money up just incase our workforce goes on strike in March. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robert.fowler 0 Report post Posted January 17, 2009 Cool, thanks for the reply. Talked to an auto sparky mate of mine and He's going to sort my wiring. Just a couple more questions; i) Engine mounts. I'm going to make mine out of mild steel. I want to have an RHS middle section, ends cut to the right angle with a bracket welded on each end. One bolting to the engine block and the other bolting to the existing rubber/steel mount. Will this work? ii) How is your diff/driveline holding up? I'll probably have to upgrade mine to a 6-cylinder unit or something aftermarket as my car's only a 318iS. Thanks again for the answers. My immediate plans are on hold for now anyway. Have to save some money up just incase our workforce goes on strike in March. 1) your engine mount idea will work okay.Engine will move around abit sitting on those bmw donut style mounts2)6 cyl diff okay so far with car now being manual. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
340i 3 Report post Posted February 2, 2009 hey nice conversion man, it looks good. i've just found this and was reading and noticed the first hydraulic release bearing you had, cos i had one of those between my 1uz and w58 too, and it too crapped out on me. it lasted about an hour each time before it would break the seal and I'd have to pull the car completely to bits to fix it. I too went for a completely new setup, so I feel ya pain there. its bloody annoying (and expensive) having things re-done. have you thrown it down the quarter yet? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites