E46 Stereo on ebay

[elmarco 56]

Does anyone know if BMW part number 6512 6 909 882 is a NG world mode stereo? Would this require a harness and antenna amplifier change if I was to fit it into a 2000 model E46 (OG stereo I believe)?

//cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180236303612&fromMakeTrack=true

Cheers

elmarco

[hotwire 352]

No, That is an OG unit.

You need a CD53 (NG)

Here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=180236703369

[jochen 4]

Does anyone know if BMW part number 6512 6 909 882 is a NG world mode stereo? Would this require a harness and antenna amplifier change if I was to fit it into a 2000 model E46 (OG stereo I believe)?

//cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180236303612&fromMakeTrack=true

That radio on ebay is a NG (twin-display) radio with OG connections - one of the few available that were made during the transitional period whilst they changed to NG radios.

It is exactly the right type for a 2000 E46

[elmarco 56]

That radio on ebay is a NG (twin-display) radio with OG connections - one of the few available that were made during the transitional period whilst they changed to NG radios.

It is exactly the right type for a 2000 E46

Thanks Jochen.

I was a little confused with it having the split screen and RDS (making it NG), but the old type pins in the back.

Cheers,

elmarco

[wild_weston 0]

Looks like exactly what I was after as well.

Just signed upto ebay and bought one.

Don't worry elmarco - he has three units (of the same type) for sale so I haven't stolen it off you.

[elmarco 56]

Looks like exactly what I was after as well.

Just signed upto ebay and bought one.

Don't worry elmarco - he has three units (of the same type) for sale so I haven't stolen it off you.

Ha - so did I!! They look to be in plentiful supply over there!!

Did you get it from germanaudiotech? I thought $150 USD was a pretty damn good price. Freight is normally the killer, but $45 USD is OK.

Wonder if there is a market for them here?? How much do NZ frequency radios go for on trademe??

[hotwire 352]

That radio on ebay is a NG (twin-display) radio with OG connections - one of the few available that were made during the transitional period whilst they changed to NG radios.

It is exactly the right type for a 2000 E46

Sorry guys - stand corrected on this - got caught out on the transitional one - CD53 is obviously the full NG version

[wild_weston 0]

Ha - so did I!! They look to be in plentiful supply over there!!

Did you get it from germanaudiotech? I thought $150 USD was a pretty damn good price. Freight is normally the killer, but $45 USD is OK.

Wonder if there is a market for them here?? How much do NZ frequency radios go for on trademe??

Yup got mine from him too. Very good price.

I reckon there is a market for them here, with all the jap imports. Especially if the OEM price he (germanaudiotech) quoted is true.

I know there are a lot better stereos out there but the filler part you have to get looks wrong in the E46 (and only comes in black plastic). Happy to stick with the abnormally sized BMW radios for now.

[wild_weston 0]

Elmarco,

just had a check on a website for how to change the radio.

Pretty simple. Take the dash lining out of the passenger side, using a screwdriver with tape over the blade to avoid scratching the panel.

Then remove the panel around the stereo.

Then remove the two bolts/ screws holding the radio in place. Pull out old radio and plug in new one and put everything back together (the panels just snap back into place).

Easy enough.

[elmarco 56]

Elmarco,

just had a check on a website for how to change the radio.

Pretty simple. Take the dash lining out of the passenger side, using a screwdriver with tape over the blade to avoid scratching the panel.

Then remove the panel around the stereo.

Then remove the two bolts/ screws holding the radio in place. Pull out old radio and plug in new one and put everything back together (the panels just snap back into place).

Easy enough.

Yeah - I can't stand the butchered look when you try and put something non-standard in the dash. The black plastic filler really does look crap. And it really bugs me when there are loads of flashing lights and graphic equalizer bars etc. Maybe I'm getting old....

Std BMW stereos are not bad, and my current one actually sounds pretty good. It will never be perfect, but then again, I'll probably never know the difference.

I did see the installation methodology on the site. Looks simple enough.... Let me know how you get on!!

[jochen 4]

I reckon there is a market for them here, with all the jap imports. Especially if the OEM price he (germanaudiotech) quoted is true.

I know there are a lot better stereos out there but the filler part you have to get looks wrong in the E46 (and only comes in black plastic). Happy to stick with the abnormally sized BMW radios for now.

Yes, there definitely is a market in NZ. I know the situation well.

No after-market stereo can match the BMW OEM stereo, as ONLY the BMW stereo can control the original BMW antenna amplifier and diversity switch.

The E46 has 2 or 3 FM antennas (depending on E46 model) and the stereo decides which antenna to use and tells the antenna switch to change antennas. No aftermarket stereo has this ability.

So add an after market stereo and the antenna switch stays on one antenna, and FM performance will reduce dramatically, which really shows up if you live in out-country areas where FM signal strength is low.

Plus the original BMW stereo offers:

1. perfect integration with colour, design, and ease-of-use

2. Speed dependent volume

3. RDS

4. Steering wheel controls

5. Telephone integration with BMW telephone

6. Control of the original BMW CD changer in the boot

Not all aftermarket stereos can offer these functions

And the original BMW stereo is a high-quality Blaupunkt or Alpine unit (depending on model). The construction and components used are very very good. I'm a radio tech and have worked around car stereos for over 20 years, so I can recognise cheap crap and good quality easily.

I always recommend fitting the original BMW unit.

As for replacing the radio, you only need to remove the trim around the radio. I use a plastic bicycle tyre lever. Lever the trim up evenly across the length of the trim, otherwise the pegs may break off.

Then the radio can be removed by undoing 2 x screws.

The security ocde function in these radios is automatic; no code entry or programming required in an E46. Just plug it in and it works. Put the radio in a non-BMW and it won't work :-)

Remember, if the car has a band expander and you are fitting a NZ-band BMW radio: make sure you remove the band expander and repair any damaged wiring before the new radio goes it.

Remember also: the OG radios are market dependent: Europe, USA, Japan and Oceania. ONLY the Europe and Oceania radios work in NZ. So when buying a non-programmable OG radio, you MUST get a European or Oceanian model. I always got the European radios from Germany or the UK, because they had RDS and the Oceania models didn't.

With NG radios, you can change the AREA setting to Europe, and thus purchase of a NG radio from the USA is OK. Luckily, NG and OG radios are immediately distinguishable just by looking at the front panel.

Enjoy your forray into swapping out Japan BMW radios for European models :-)

[jochen 4]

And remember the E46 radio comes in 3 x types:

Reverse RDS. radio/tape, no CD changer control, 12-watt amplifier. Single tuner design.

Business RDS; radio/tape or radio/CD, with CD changer control. Tape has 12-watt amp, CD has 25-watt hgh-power amp. Single tuner design.

Professional RDS: CD, CD changer control, twin tuner design, high-power amp. The very best model.

[elmarco 56]

Yes, there definitely is a market in NZ. I know the situation well.

No after-market stereo can match the BMW OEM stereo, as ONLY the BMW stereo can control the original BMW antenna amplifier and diversity switch.

The E46 has 2 or 3 FM antennas (depending on E46 model) and the stereo decides which antenna to use and tells the antenna switch to change antennas. No aftermarket stereo has this ability.

So add an after market stereo and the antenna switch stays on one antenna, and FM performance will reduce dramatically, which really shows up if you live in out-country areas where FM signal strength is low.

Plus the original BMW stereo offers:

1. perfect integration with colour, design, and ease-of-use

2. Speed dependent volume

3. RDS

4. Steering wheel controls

5. Telephone integration with BMW telephone

6. Control of the original BMW CD changer in the boot

Not all aftermarket stereos can offer these functions

And the original BMW stereo is a high-quality Blaupunkt or Alpine unit (depending on model). The construction and components used are very very good. I'm a radio tech and have worked around car stereos for over 20 years, so I can recognise cheap crap and good quality easily.

I always recommend fitting the original BMW unit.

As for replacing the radio, you only need to remove the trim around the radio. I use a plastic bicycle tyre lever. Lever the trim up evenly across the length of the trim, otherwise the pegs may break off.

Then the radio can be removed by undoing 2 x screws.

The security ocde function in these radios is automatic; no code entry or programming required in an E46. Just plug it in and it works. Put the radio in a non-BMW and it won't work :-)

Remember, if the car has a band expander and you are fitting a NZ-band BMW radio: make sure you remove the band expander and repair any damaged wiring before the new radio goes it.

Remember also: the OG radios are market dependent: Europe, USA, Japan and Oceania. ONLY the Europe and Oceania radios work in NZ. So when buying a non-programmable OG radio, you MUST get a European or Oceanian model. I always got the European radios from Germany or the UK, because they had RDS and the Oceania models didn't.

With NG radios, you can change the AREA setting to Europe, and thus purchase of a NG radio from the USA is OK. Luckily, NG and OG radios are immediately distinguishable just by looking at the front panel.

Enjoy your forray into swapping out Japan BMW radios for European models :-)

This is why I got the beamer in the first place - I appreciate the engineering that goes into them! I had no idea that they had more than one antenna - but I am not at all surprised. Guess that's one reason why I can't live with loads of flashing lights on aftermarket stereos. It just seems so tacky and un-BMW like.

Having worked in the automotive electronics industry, I can tell you that the same thought does not go into Detroit or some of the Japanese iron... Sad really as they all use the same suppliers.

Any idea what an OEM spec radio should sell for on trademe Jochen?

[elmarco 56]

And remember the E46 radio comes in 3 x types:

Reverse RDS. radio/tape, no CD changer control, 12-watt amplifier. Single tuner design.

Business RDS; radio/tape or radio/CD, with CD changer control. Tape has 12-watt amp, CD has 25-watt hgh-power amp. Single tuner design.

Professional RDS: CD, CD changer control, twin tuner design, high-power amp. The very best model.

Actually, what do you mean by single or twin tuner design? I thought they only used one tuner per radio... One for AM, one for FM maybe??

Just curious.....

[Yuen 16]

Jochen, how would say, an Alpine 9835 compare to the best BMW radio? I thought aftermarket would be superior, especially in terms of sound quality.

I agree about the looks, it's hard to make a DIN size unit look at home in that space. I think if you want to go aftermarket AND look good, you'll have to do some custom work - car PC, relocation or what not.

[wild_weston 0]

Well can't wait for mine to arrive.

Will be putting it in myself and will use the re-progamming the area solution form another thread on this forum.

Jochen, I do have a few questions for you:

1) I have a M3 steering wheel in my car (full lower part, as opposed to dual spoke, and tip tronic gear controls for added fun). It has all the multi function buttons but these don't seem to be connected. Is it possible to connect them (radio controls and possibly cruise control) or do I need some extra parts (I have to assume the original steering wheel wasn't multi-function)?

Pic of steering wheel:

2) I've noticed that my speakers suffer from bass vibration which is really noticable at low volumes. They are original speakers, do they need some kind of maintenance or product (I have seen noise reduction products at car stereo websites which are suppose to fix this) to stop the vibration? I don't fancy changing them as I would assume they are high quality ones.

3) What does a band expander look like and will it be attached to the wiring at the back of the stereo (if I have one)?

Thanks

Edited May 3, 2008 by wild_weston

[jochen 4]

Actually, what do you mean by single or twin tuner design? I thought they only used one tuner per radio... One for AM, one for FM maybe??

2 x tuners means

One tuner is locked to the station you are listening to

The 2nd tuner will be

a) checking the alternative frequencies of the current station

monitoring for traffic bulletins on a different FM station

c) scanning the FM band, automatically picking up current stations and populating the station button list.

Thus when on AM, you can still receive FM traffic bulletins

The above features are RDS functions which are extremely common in Europe, and more and more common in NZ.

My current car - 2007 VW Passat - has a twin tuner design and means that I can monitor traffic bulletins even when on AM. Where I am, traffic bulletins are very useful - on Wed night this week there was a 4-hour traffic jam. So knowing about it meant you could avoid it.

With a single tuner design, the radio can only monitor traffic bulletins on the current station, so no traffic info on AM. Also, the RDS alternativefrequency retuning has audible gaps when on the edge of a coverage area as the tuner switches to another frequency to look for a stronger signal.

Only the best radios have the twin tuner design.

[jochen 4]

Jochen, how would say, an Alpine 9835 compare to the best BMW radio? I thought aftermarket would be superior, especially in terms of sound quality.

I am not familiar with the Alpine 9835. I just looked at a picture on ebay.

In my opinion, it would look totally wrong in a BMW.

And also IMHO, speakers have much more impact on sound quality than the stereo.

[jochen 4]

1) I have a M3 steering wheel in my car (full lower part, as opposed to dual spoke, and tip tronic gear controls for added fun). It has all the multi function buttons but these don't seem to be connected. Is it possible to connect them (radio controls and possibly cruise control) or do I need some extra parts (I have to assume the original steering wheel wasn't multi-function)?

The MFL (Multi-Funktion Lenkrad, or multi-function steering wheel) connects direct to the k-bus through the right button pad.

The k-bus is the databus that carries all the data commands for the stereo and infotainment system and most of the body electronics on the E46.

The radio commands are sent down the k-bus to the radio.

To check if the kbus is working to the steering wheel, check the following:

1. Illumination. If this works, then the power and ground wires to the MFL button pad are working. If no illumination, check fuse F9 (5A). This powers the MFL electronics incl cruise control buttons.

2. Check all buttons except cruise control. If any single button works, the k-bus must be working

3. Check cruise control buttons. If these work, the power supply to the MFL is OK, and the FGRS wire is OK (cruise control connection to motor electronics).

You can also use my NavCoder software to monitor the actual commands on the kbus to see if the MFL is sending commands - if it is and the radio is not responding, then the kbus wire to the radio needs checking, and possibly the kbus interface inside the radio. I once had a radio where the kbus line inside the radio had corrosion on it from a leaking capacitor.

The MFL cruise control uses a separate databus direct to the motor electronics, but is powered from the same fuse (F9). No cruise control = maybe bad fuse.

The volute spring (slip-ring system) can also fail, causing wire breakages in the wires to the MFL.

If illumination and cruise control work, then maybe the volute spring has a broken kbus wire.

The full wiring diagram for your car can be viewed online here:

BMW WDS for E46

Internet Explorer only.

Steering wheel is under Complete vehicle - Chassis - Steering

Or the volute spring is under

Component and signal information - I_Components of outside manufacturer - I01002 volute spring

This also shows the SMG wiring for the paddle switches.

2) I've noticed that my speakers suffer from bass vibration which is really noticable at low volumes. They are original speakers, do they need some kind of maintenance or product (I have seen noise reduction products at car stereo websites which are suppose to fix this) to stop the vibration? I don't fancy changing them as I would assume they are high quality ones.

Any speaker can fail from overdriving the bass which overextends the speaker cone and ruins it over time.

First check the door pockets for anything that may vibrate.

Then open the door panels and look for physical vibration. Check all bolted-on items are tight, and that no screws are loose.

Then check each speaker/door one by one (use balance/fader) to isolate any physical vibrations in the materials in the door. Try padding etc to reduce vibrations.

If the speakers are knackered replacement is the only cure.

In this case consider after-market speakers as a possible sound upgrade option.

3) What does a band expander look like and will it be attached to the wiring at the back of the stereo (if I have one)?

A band expander is a small tin box or inline round housing which is attached inline with the antenna connector, and then has a single power wire as well.

Normally fitted to the back of the radio.

to tell if you have one:

a) is yours an ex-Japan radio (display only to max 90.0 on FM) but can you listen to stations higher than 90MHz? Like National radio? If so, a band expander is fitted.

Here's my solution to band expanders

1. Remove band expander

2. Repair damaged wiring

3. Place band expander in front of a rear wheel (left or right in accordance with preference)

4. Place vehicle in first gear, rev to approx 3000 RPM

5. Drop the clutch

The band expander has now had the treatment it deserves.

Edited May 3, 2008 by jochen

[jochen 4]

Any idea what an OEM spec radio should sell for on trademe Jochen?

Look at the search history. Selling prices vary from around $75 to $500 depending on model and source.

Reverse RDS = noone wants them (in NZ or Germany!) They make a good choice for a car dealer or if you are selling your E46 and want a working radio in the hole.

Business RDS Cassette = good cheap choice if an existing CD changer is fitted in the boot

Business RDS CD = good choice for yourself if you have no CD changer and don't play tapes

Professional RDS = best choice if you want the best of the best and are prepared to treat yourself to the highest-performing radio that BMW offered at the time.

[wild_weston 0]

Jochen,

Totally agree on your band expander solution. If you scroll through bands then it also knocks the display out of line with the radio station paying (I would assume).

None of my steering wheel buttons are illuminated or work.

So do you think it might just be a blown fuse, would just plugging in an M3 wheel would automatically link up to the kbus, or do you think that further work is needed to get it all working right?

Might be outside of your area but does having cruise control buttons enable cruise control or are extra parts needed?

Cruise control ain't a biggie to me as they is hardly anywhere in NZ that you can use it (No long straight motorways).

Thanks

[jochen 4]

Totally agree on your band expander solution. If you scroll through bands then it also knocks the display out of line with the radio station paying (I would assume).

Correct :-)

None of my steering wheel buttons are illuminated or work.

So you have no power.

Doubt it is a blown fuse as F9 supplies the GM, the LSZ, the brake light switch and the clutch switch module. You'd have more problems than just steering wheel if F9 was blown.

I suspect the wheel was fitted to a car with originally non-MFL, and the necessay wiring is missing.

So do you think it might just be a blown fuse, would just plugging in an M3 wheel would automatically link up to the kbus, or do you think that further work is needed to get it all working right?

Correct. All the radio buttons will work immediately, no other special work required.

Provided, of course, that the necessary cables are fitted...

But getting it working would be very easy.... fit the wiring loom and plug in (if it is missing) and of course ensure the volute spring is fitted

Maybe the volute spring is faulty?

Easy to fix...

Anyway, to inspect, take the steering column trim off and look for the volute switch and wiring loom to steering wheel.

Look for anything non-original in case the paddle wheel shift was a mickey mouse add on.

Take photos of what you see - from both sides of steering column - and post here or PM me.

Might be outside of your area but does having cruise control buttons enable cruise control or are extra parts needed?

Cruise control 2 (GR 2)

<h3 class="subsection2">Applications</h3> The cruise control 2 (GR 2) system is a further development of the autarkic speed control (GR 1).It is used as of E38 and in subsequent series with the exception of cars equipped with electronic engine management (EML) and diesel vehicles with digital diesel electronics (DDE).

The cruise control enables constant driving for speed above 30 km/h irrespective of the type of terrain.Additional functions facilitate convenient speed increase or speed decrease as well as making it possible to drive at a stored speed value.

<h3 class="subsection2">Functional principle</h3> The cruise control system consists of the operating unit, the control electronics and the electric motor-driven actuator.

The control and operating signals necessary for cruise control are supplied to the control electronics.The throttle position is corrected with the electric motor-driven actuator in order to adjust the driving speed during controlled constant driving to the required set speed value or to change the driving speed during controlled driving.The actuator is controlled by the electronic control system. The feedback of the actuator position to the electronic control system closes the control circuit for positioning the throttle.

When driving is uncontrolled, the throttle is controlled directly by the accelerator pedal.The accelerator pedal always has priority in the throttle open direction (also when cruise control is active).Driving with cruise control is interrupted by a number of different switch-off conditions, e.g. pressing the brake pedal or the clutch pedal.

Note

The cruise control GR 2 is connected directly to a diagnosis link.In the case of faults during the diagnostic procedure, the diagnosis link must be checked between the diagnosis socket and the control unit for cruise control.

<h3 class="subsection2">Variants</h3> Depending on the vehicle type, vehicle equipment level and country-specific variant, the cruise control is operated either via an operating unit integrated in the steering wheel (multifunction steering wheel, MFL) or with the steering column switch.Operation with the steering column switch can take place with or without the main switch.A further differentiation is made between the type of transmission installed (manual or automatic transmission) and the type of brake light switch (electronic or mechanical).

(end quote) there is more info but for the sake of brevity i just copied the first section.

If your car never had cruise control fitted, then you will need:

1. Actuator

2. Clutch switch (manual)

3. Applicable wiring

4. Coding

Can all be retrofitted, get a copy of the retrofit instructions to understand exactly what is required.

Edited May 3, 2008 by jochen

[wild_weston 0]

Jochen,

you truly are a guru.

All of your help has been greatly appreciated.

Cheers

[jochen 4]

you truly are a guru.

All of your help has been greatly appreciated.

And all I do is copy and paste from here

I guess its all about knowing where to look and how to read the info... <grin>

[elmarco 56]

Yeah - you do learn something new every day Yuen!

Thanks Jochen - glad we have access to someone like you who knows this stuff backwards (even if you are half a world away). I guess the twin tuner is a bit of a waste in NZ - we are only just getting RDS let alone active traffic management...

Had a look at the WDS site - love the section for special use vehicles - official use vehicle - gun mount (non camouflaged). Where do I get me one of them??? Thats what I call active traffic management!!!

How the hell did we ever get by without the internet?