bimmer boy 21 Report post Posted July 18, 2004 found it on a site thought it would come in handy for someone that wants to buy a E30 check the obvious things... make sure everything inside the car works (buttons, windows, fan blower, AC etc..) If it has a sunroof, look for rust where the tracks are. Check the engine compartment for leaks, oil level & condition, straight frame, VIN # consistancy. Look in the trunk for water accumulation and the condition of the spare tire, also to see if the tool kit is complete and if there's any record of the last timing belt change. If all that checks out fine, take it to a mechanic to see if everything under the car checks out and get an abstract on it from the Ministry. BEFORE YOU SHOP... Before you decide to start looking at E30's, you must promise yourself that you will not be afraid to get your hands dirty. Even if you find a gem, there will be problems that you should tackle yourself. BMW's are no harder to work on then other cars, but repair shops love to overcharge you just because you have a German car. Make a commitment to buy a metric set of tools, a Bentley manual, and a few hours of your time to keep your E30 in tip top shape without breaking your wallet. If you cannot change your oil, replace a fuse, or tighten a bolt do not buy an E30 because the little things will kill your love for your E30 and your bank account. However, if you don't mind spending a few hours every once in a while working on you car, then owning an E30 will be a great (and cheap) experience. WHAT TO LOOK FOR The one thing I cannot stress enough is that low mileage E30's do not make the best buys for two reasons. First, the owners of low mileage E30's usually ask a premium (I will explain why it is a bad idea to pay a premium for low mileage E30's). Second, owning an E30 between the 100,000 mile and 150,000 mile interval can be extremely expensive. A lot goes on these cars in the 50,000 mile period. Why pay a premium for a car with 90,000 miles when you are 10,000 miles away from hell? It make much more since to grab a cheap e30 with 150,000 miles or more since the 100,000-150,000 mile problems SHOULD have been fixed. Please note SHOULD. So what is so bad about the 100,000-150,000 black hole I keep referring to? Well between 100,000-150,000 the following parts usually need to be replaced or repaired: Steering rack $ 500 Control arms $ 500 Driveshaft $ 800 Radiator $ 250 Brakes $ 500 SI Board $ 250 Timing belt $ 400 Battery $ 100 Clutch $ 800 Various electronics $ 0-1,000 Auto Transmission $ 1,000 As you can see, stuff adds up very quickly. There are no guarantees that the previous owner took care of the 100,000-150,000 mile maintenance, or did the jobs properly. There is even the possibility that the car you are buying managed to crawl through the 100,000-150,000 interval with no problems. This could mean that you are gonna get hit hard with repairs in as little as a week! Luckily there is an easy way to see what you are getting into. GET THE SERVICE RECORDS! I strongly advise buying an E30 without the service records. If the owner did not take the time to document the work done to the car chances are he wouldn't take the time to make sure the work was done properly. There is also the possibility the owner had the car serviced at an auto repair "chain," or "mom and pop" mechanic. One of the worst things an E30 owner can do is to have their car serviced at a generic auto repair shop. BMW are special cars that need special attention from certified BMW shops or highly recommended local shops that specialize in high end cars. Using an automotive repair "chain" or a "mom and pop" mechanic can be murder on BMW's. KICKING THE FENDERS Here is a list of things to check for when you buy an E30. Exterior Check all body panels for damage or signs of repair. Look to see if all the VIN numbers match. Look for anything out of the ordinary. Aftermarket spoilers or bodykits can sometimes be used to hide dents or damage. Check the head and taillights for cracks or pits. Make sure that all the door locks work properly. Check all trim and moldings for signs of overspray from a possible paint job. The hood washers, bumper trim, side moldings, door locks, door handles, and wipers should all be a flat black. If these are painted the body color the car could have a cheap paint job. Ask the owner if it OK to place a piece of making tape on an inconspicuous spot. If the car has the OEM or quality aftermarket paint job the tape should come of with no drama. If the tape takes tape with it, the car has been to a cheap repair shop. Look at the tread life on the tires. Also inspect the rims for damage. I also suggest that you get down and look at the under side of the car. Check for rust on the floorpans, drivetrain, and exhaust. Interior Look closely at the seats. If the owner has seat covers ask to remove them. Reupholstering jobs run $ 500- $ 2,000 for the front seats alone, so make sure the interior is in satisfactory shape. Check the dashboard and console for cracks or signs of wear. The carpet should be in decent shape. Ask to pull back a section to inspect the floorpans for rust (The carpet easily pulls back in the rear of the cabin. Make sure all buttons work. See that all the lights on the instrument cluster light up when the key is turned to position 1 or 2, and go dark once the car is started. It is very common for people to disconnect or remove the light bulbs to hid problems. Be sure the radio, power mirrors, power locks, power sunroof, flashers, turn signals, brake lights, fog lights, headlights, interior lights and AC work. Engine bay and Trunk Inspect the engine compartment and the trunk for signs of repair (The carpet will need to be pulled back in the trunk). The VINS should be found on both front fenders. The rear fenders do not have VIN stickers. Inspect all shock towers for excessive weld lines as it could be a sign of repair due to an accident or collapsed shock tower. The engine should be relatively clean. Make sure there are no leaks coming from the headgasket. Inspect the dipstick for signs of coolant (this could mean a cracked block). Check the condition and color of all fluid containers. Test Drive Check for a rough idle, hesitation, and knocks. The engine should be pretty smooth unless it is modified by performance upgrades like camshafts. Make sure the car can pull to redline without drama. Make sure the shifting is smooth and swift (short shifters can feel notchy). Check for a hard brake pedal and smooth stops. The handling and ride should be up to usual BMW standards (stiff but sweet). Make sure the E-brake is tight and holds the car in place. Don't be afraid to drive it hard! BMW's are strong machines that can take tough love easily if well maintained. I strongly advise that you take your car to an independent mechanic for a check up before you buy. However, using these tips can eliminate problem cars right away and save you the $ 100 or so for a professional inspection. It's actually pretty simple... 1. Choose the model you are interested in and set your price range. 2. Search the local Classified and Autotrader for the model you are looking for in your price range. 3. Inspect the car and ask the hard questions. 4. Take the car to an independent mechanic for the final inspection. 5. If everything looks good, buy it! Chain tensioner and profile gasket, those are the major things What color is the oil? ... any metal flakes in it? How does the car idle? ... does the car stay straight when you slam on the brakes and let go of the steering wheel? does the steering wheel turn when you go over potholes? any grinding or knocking (not ticking) in the engine bay?.. how about when you rev high then release? what happens when you slam on the gas then release?... any knocking sounds from the shock mounts?.. subframe? ABS kick in when you slam on the brakes? any play in the steering wheel? ... automatic or manual?.. if manual how's the clutch?... how easily does the car shift from 1st to 2nd without depressing the clutch?.. if you push gently it should be able to slide right in without any grinding. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Spargo Report post Posted July 18, 2004 Also, make sure the name Angus Ulyate isn't one of the previous owners. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted July 18, 2004 hah...sam my cars getting mint now....seriously though take a look at the previous owner and his surroundings...if he and his whole house is scum think twice...my PO was a big ass stoner and forgot heaps of sh*t like bolts and nuts.....its only now 6 months down the track that im getting happy with my car...look around at as many different examples that you can...dont be fooled by paint and wheels.....also keep in mind that dings and sh*t DO COST Lots to fix....keep that in mind..above all wear your sensible hat...you will kick yourself if you dont Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grant 4 Report post Posted July 18, 2004 hah...sam my cars getting mint now....seriously though take a look at the previous owner and his surroundings...if he and his whole house is scum think twice...my PO was a big ass stoner and forgot heaps of sh*t like bolts and nuts.....its only now 6 months down the track that im getting happy with my car...look around at as many different examples that you can...dont be fooled by paint and wheels.....also keep in mind that dings and sh*t DO COST Lots to fix....keep that in mind..above all wear your sensible hat...you will kick yourself if you dont I can verify this having seen Gus's car from when he first bought it to now. You would not believe it was the same car.He has turned it from basically a crappy rice piece of junk (with bits and pieces missing) into a nice, good condition close to standard E30 325i. Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted July 18, 2004 and also....look at the car in the daylight...bright daylight.....anything else wont do....you wont see sh*t Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Spargo Report post Posted July 19, 2004 Yea, just messing with ya Gus, i must say your car has come a long way indeed. Still getting the Alpinas? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
