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Katalyst

E30 disc brake conversion

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Have a f/l parts car and want to put the disc setup onto my pre f/l

have never tackled that end of the car before apart from changing springs

whats involved and does anybody know of any write-ups sifting round on the web?? also any pitalls to watch out for!!

also planning a manual conversion aswell, just waiting for a 260 kit to pop up, would it make any difference or easyier to do them together or one before the other??

cheers

Edited by Katalyst

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Fairly easy, you can do it by just unbolting the two swing arms and changing them, or take the whole subframe out, Faster to do the swing arm way, no need to drop diff or exhaust.

Undo the two brake lines near the diff, and the handbrake cables in the car. Then take the wheels off, and undo the shock and remove the spring, undo the socket bolts on the half shafts. Undo the 2 bolts on each side which hold the swing arm on, a bit fiddly, but can be done, you may find it easier to take the petrol filler hose off to get better access, should then come out. Fitting disc ones is just the reverse.

Edited by Silver Fox

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Have a f/l parts car and want to put the disc setup onto my pre f/l

have never tackled that end of the car before apart from changing springs

whats involved and does anybody know of any write-ups sifting round on the web?? also any pitalls to watch out for!!

also planning a manual conversion aswell, just waiting for a 260 kit to pop up, would it make any difference or easyier to do them together or one before the other??

cheers

I have done a full subframe removal 3 times now, i do it like this.

1. Wheels off and put car on chassis stands, once on give it the sideways push test to make sures its safe.

2. remove shocks and springs.

2aUnbolt driveshaft from diff

2b.loosed the driveshafts where they bolt to the diff

3. unbolt handbrake lines from the handbrake inside the car and pull these through from underneath the car.

4.get some CRC penetrate or similar on any brake line fittings, these can be a total a**hole because if they are stuck they round out and can end up costing more money to get replaced.

5.unbolt any brake lines or fitings that would stop the entire assembly being lowered ( these are normally the 2 rubber lines that connect to the hard lines on the rear suspension arms.

6.place a jack under the diff and place some jacks under the rear crossmember so that when you loosed the subframe bolts it will rest on the chassis stands and you can lower it down gradually and safely.

7. Loosen subframe bolts.

8.unbolt subframe sill mounting plates- you could use an allen key but i used an allen key fitting on a breaker bar.

9. decide if you want to drop the whole subframe or just replace the arms- each way requires the subframe to be lowered by about 100mm, and each method also requires the diff mounting bolt to be undone.

10. From here just tap each side of the subframe alternatily so that it comes down evenly

I used a rubber mallet.

I suggest having a large trolly jack under the diff at all times, i also suggest having a smaller trolly jack under the bulge in the subframe where the driveshaft goes through.

There is a lot of weight in the assembly and it needs to be supported as it comes down.

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sweet thanks guys, dosnt sound that hard!!(crossed fingers!)

yeah will probably do whole subframe as current diff whines and nothing i do seems to get rid of it!!!

so no other sticky bits other than brake line fittings, that i should watch out for??

i tend to get impatient very quickly :D

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