Forrest 35 Report post Posted May 25, 2009 Ever since doing a rear end disc conversion in my car, my shafts spit oil underneath the car. It leaks where the trailing arm shafts bolt together with the output shafts on the diff, of which are tighted by those 8mm allen hex bolts. When I had the subframe out I used thread lock on those hex bolts but the bolts are still working loose and it still is pissing diff oil/grease everywhere I assume there is no nut on the other side where the thread of the hex bolt is exposed about 2 mm? Does anyone agree with me that I have some sort of extra vibration (shouldnt be subframe/driveshaft mounts have just been replaced) causing them to work loose? Or is it something more sinister? i.e busted/bent output shafts etc Any help is appreciated, I will just keep topping the diff oil up for the time being till I find a solution, don't really feel like blowing up a diff first time out on the track Thanks everyone, Nathan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted May 25, 2009 (edited) Replace the seals on the diff ?? There are output flange seals on each side.. And as for the halfshaft bolts coming loose, You gotta put some hard strength into tightening them. I got brand new bolts when I put an LSD in, too many bad experiences in the past. Or else be prepared for something like bellow.. That was when I had a lock diff in though. The bolts kept coming loose and one side fully loosened itself one day and the axle dropped off and spun against the road smashing around and around until it go jammed above the diff, Pryed down on my diff and broke that rear cover mount off and the diff smashed onto the ground barely hanging off the subframe (you can see how much it's sagged, and it's only a small case). Driveshaft got hell from this too. Edited May 25, 2009 by FrantiC Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted May 25, 2009 ^ Cheers Frantic, I have had a look at the output shaft seals and they seem fine, its just the bolts coming loose thats the problem. Need to get a torque wrench and tighten them up to spec Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted May 25, 2009 I just tighten the sh*t out of them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted May 25, 2009 ^ Ha I did that last time, Turning the allen key to the point where I turned the allen key with hitting it with a hammer. Guess just try it again haha Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted May 25, 2009 I use a big breaker bar and a t-50 torx socket. New bolts may help. No loctite required. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted May 25, 2009 New bolts from the dealer? How much they cost if you know? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC Report post Posted May 25, 2009 New bolts from the dealer? How much they cost if you know? Not sure about from dealer, I went and bought some from a hardware store that sells bolts and nuts etc, Found some high tensile bolts of the exact kind (same size/length thread etc). Cost me like not even $10 I think, for 12 new bolts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted May 25, 2009 Awesome thanks mate, will have a look. Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tibbs.james 1 Report post Posted May 25, 2009 As frantic said tighten the S**T out a them , borrow a breaker bar and a socket Allen key thingy Its impossible to do with a normal Allen key unless its 2 feet long. I was amazed when we undid the ones on Rileys car they were all so loose, but the breaker bar fixed that. 80nm on the torque wrench rings a bell. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
