antony 0 Report post Posted July 1, 2009 (edited) The Car: 1990 E30 320i Current suspension: Bilstien struts with Jamex springs. I have replaced the control arm bushes with urethane ones. Jamex have sagged, and Bilstien possibly need re-built. The problem: Rediculous camber all round, and toe-in at the rear. The Solution: ??? Any simple options? (without adjustable camber plates, and those IE things that weld onto the subframe) Because I want to do a full suspension overhaul, but not quite yet, but would like to have this corrected. As best as possible anyway. Also, I want to replace the rear bushes with urethane, what ones do I need to get? Thanks Antony. Edited July 1, 2009 by antony Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver Fox 43 Report post Posted July 1, 2009 Get a set of std springs, will get rid of your camber problem straight away, camber increases when the car goes lower, the lower you go, the more camber. Toe on rear is normally due to age and the back wheels having been knocked around a bit, the trailing arms get bent and twisted. We changed the trailing arms and got the rear ok again, but can take a few different arms to find a good pair. Fit new rear bushes to the trailing arms at the same time, easy job. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
simcmanus 0 Report post Posted September 9, 2009 Get a set of std springs, will get rid of your camber problem straight away, camber increases when the car goes lower, the lower you go, the more camber. Toe on rear is normally due to age and the back wheels having been knocked around a bit, the trailing arms get bent and twisted. We changed the trailing arms and got the rear ok again, but can take a few different arms to find a good pair. Fit new rear bushes to the trailing arms at the same time, easy job. K, similar issue, thought I post here. suffering bad as angle at the rear wheels, on 325 sitting on lowered springs and sick of wearing out expensive tyres, plus wouldn't mind more traction. What about a camber correction setup. Believe M series have these standard, correct me if I'm off the mark, but what's recommended course of action? + I'm not a mech-head so take it easy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tibbs.james 1 Report post Posted September 9, 2009 there is only really 2 options ... as David said, normal height springs & swapping arms over until the desired result is found. or do the camber Castor sub frame/ bushing setup. unfortunately BMW didn't have the castor adjustment as factory like many other semi trailing arm setups from the era did have this feature. ( datsun z cars for example ) there are a few different sub frame mods using similar types of adjustment setups wherre an eccentric washer/bolt on a cam moves the bolt up down or forward and back in the slotted hole on the sub frame I will try and find pictures or a drawing of how the Datsun semi trailing arm one works Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver Fox 43 Report post Posted September 9, 2009 (edited) there are a few crowds around who do this sort of kit. from IE site. When a BMW is lowered the rear suspension gains camber. Often you end up with too much camber. This kit consists of 2 sets of eccentrics and slotted brackets. Brackets are welded to the inboard trailing arm pickup points and eccentrics allow you to adjust camber. Removal of rear subframe, welding and some grinding is required. This kit fits most BMW's with rear trailing arms including E30,E30M3, E9, E24, E28, Z3's, and E36 318ti. One kit does both sides. Please speecify model and year. We also offer similar kit for toe adjustment. Most racers will want both. Picture shows 2 kits for illustration. Edited September 9, 2009 by Silver Fox Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
