Opinion on BBS LM replica's

[DrphTa 5]

Hey guys,

Have been on a mad Hunt for BBS LM wheels. Found a few sets on this site for the m3

First link is 19x8.5 and 19x10 with non ideal offsets but are on a e36 somehwere on the site.

http://www.wheeldude.com/catalog/product_i...62e589843c368a8

Second link is 18x8.5 non staggered with 35mm offset

http://www.wheeldude.com/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=5802

Third link is 18x8.5 and 18x10 with 35mm offset

http://www.wheeldude.com/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=6384

Ideally the 19" are first choice but the Width and Offset are very aggressive

I want Stance!

Opinions welcome. Replica quality, to big, to wide etc.

[greenday-rulz21 4]

I'd run the first ones no question about it.

19x8.5 ET30 (For the front) would give you the same clearance on the inside towards the strut but would stick out another 16mm (0.6") further than your stock wheels.

19x10 ET37 (For the rear) would give you 11mm (0.4") less clearance inside towards the strut and would stick out another 19mm (0.7") towards the guard.

You would almost definitely need to roll your guards, and maybe even flare them which makes it even more awesome! 11mm can be acceptable sometimes, it depends on the car and the application however you can use a 5-10mm spacer to bring it away from the strut if its too close. If you do then the wheel will stick out even further.

Stance FTW!

[pjay 8]

Ethan, thats a no brainer. Come on...

Replica's are all good until you can track down the real deal.

[DrphTa 5]

Haha "my bad" Peter!

I cannot find any, replicas will have to do for the moment

[DrphTa 5]

Back on topic.

The first set of wheels are $1,299 USD.

I asked the seller how much it would cost to ship to the gold coast. He said total cost would be $1,799

To me $500 USD sounds pretty expensive to ship a set of mags? Maybe im wrong?

[zenetti 0]

TBH I think you will struggle to fit a 10" wide wheel under the rear guards. We have enough problems trying to fit 9's to E36's.

Edited March 5, 2010 by zenetti

[DrphTa 5]

What offset were those wheels Jono?

You dont have have a LM Rep yet do you?

[zenetti 0]

18x9 at 35ET we found rubbed using a 255/35/18 on a lowered E36. Saying that tho I remember an E36 M3 with 9.5's @ 40ET in Chch. I am sure he had to roll the guards quite a bit.

Also remember that if you do get you guards rolled make sure you clean all the crap out that accumulates and I think from memory you may have to pull the silicone out as well.

No LM reps as yet but we we seriously looking at them. One of our factories has said they definitely have 18's and possibly 19's in the near future.

[DrphTa 5]

19x8.5 ET30 (For the front) would give you the same clearance on the inside towards the strut but would stick out another 16mm (0.6") further than your stock wheels.

19x10 ET37 (For the rear) would give you 11mm (0.4") less clearance inside towards the strut and would stick out another 19mm (0.7") towards the guard.

Nick, to me your calculations make no sense.

You say 11mm less inside and 19mm more outside. ie 30mm less clearance for both sides combined.

The difference for the stock 8.5" and 10" rim is 1.5" ie (38.1mm wider, your claiming only 30mm?)

I ran some numbers of my own and this is what I came up with for these rims

19x8.5 30mm p and 19x10 37mm p

17x7.5 41mm p and 17x8.5 41mm p

Fronts

Outer: 23.7mm less clearance

Inner: 1.7mm less clearance

Rears

Outer: 23.05mm less clearance

Inner: 15.05mm less clearance

Ethan

[zenetti 0]

You are right Ethan

23mm more to the outside and 1mm more to the inside for the fronts

23mm more to the outside and 15mm more to the inside on the rears

Remember that these measurements are from the inside of one bead to the inside of the other bead on the wheel. So in reality you probably need to add another 15 - 20mm total to get a measurement that is close to the outside of the wheel.

Edited March 7, 2010 by zenetti

[greenday-rulz21 4]

If that's correct sorry mate. I used this calculator which has previously been correct, http://www.rimsntires.com/rt_specs.jsp

See what you make of it

[zenetti 0]

That is what I used too Nick. Perhaps you just plugged in the wrong specs?

[DrphTa 5]

I used a good old paper and pen. I dont see how the back space for a 10" wide rim with a 37p offset is 176mm when I get 164mm?

10" is 254mm, center line obviously 127mm. So how does 127 + 37 = 176 when its 164?

Maybe im missing something?

edit* Just did the same equation on the fronts now and im out by 12mm again? Possibly the rim lip which i havent included for or like you said Jono, possibly the bead

Edited March 7, 2010 by DrphTa

[Guest Ari Gold]

I'm basing these off E36 M3 wheel specs: (17x7.5" ET41F / 17x8.5" ET41 R)

19x8.5" ET30 (for the front) = 2mm less inner clearance, 24mm extended further out

19x10" ET37 (for the rear) = 15mm less inner clearance, 23mm extended further out

18x8.5" ET35 (for the front) = 7mm less inner clearance, 19mm extended further out

18x8.5" ET35 (for the rear) = 6mm MORE inner clearance, 6mm extended further out

18x8.5" ET35 (for the front) = 7mm less inner clearance, 19mm extended further out

18x10" ET35 (for the rear) = 13mm less inner clearance, 25mm extended further out

[soarer260@hotmail.com 0]

I wouldn't touch replicas.

Go for it if you like motorway vibrations and shimmys.

You can't beat a true OEM or proper branded quality alloy. So much smoother and you known your treating your car well, not putting fake stuff on it.

[zenetti 0]

I wouldn't touch replicas.

Go for it if you like motorway vibrations and shimmys.

You can't beat a true OEM or proper branded quality alloy. So much smoother and you known your treating your car well, not putting fake stuff on it.

There is always one .

Maybe in your experience, but I can probably say the shimmy was due to the suspension rather than the wheel. We have sold 100's of sets of replicas and the quality has always been excellent. We never have any trouble with any of our wheels. Generally it is the cheapest tyres that cause problems.

Edited March 7, 2010 by zenetti

[soarer260@hotmail.com 0]

I was not suggesting yours, but two sets of non branded BMW replica wheels I have had caused bad shimmy at certain speeds, even with good tires.

Taking them off for stock OEM wheels reduced the vibration significantly.

[Docile 64]

ive got aftermarket reps. and the only shims i got was cause of wrong centering ring put on. after that was sorted. no more vibrations.

[zenetti 0]

I was not suggesting yours, but two sets of non branded BMW replica wheels I have had caused bad shimmy at certain speeds, even with good tires.

Taking them off for stock OEM wheels reduced the vibration significantly.

I know you weren't suggesting ours but a generic statement like the one you made is not exactly true.

Did you happen to upsize the wheels as well? We have found this a number of times especially when going from the factory 15's or 16's to an 18" or bigger wheel. It has always been that the suspension bushes have been rather tired and the heavier weight of the bigger wheel exaggerated the problem.

Edited March 7, 2010 by zenetti

[DrphTa 5]

Some motivation

[twisted 45]

I wouldn't touch replicas.

Go for it if you like motorway vibrations and shimmys.

You can't beat a true OEM or proper branded quality alloy. So much smoother and you known your treating your car well, not putting fake stuff on it.

My Shimmy's dissapeared when i had the buckles taken out of my replicas

[Guest Ari Gold]

My hate of replicas is well documented - they're a quality product these days, I just don't like the idea of ripping off a wheel design and forcing a company to fold - BBS went into receivership for a while around 24 months ago... Wonder why?

Although - wheel companies that no longer exist / designs that are no longer produced, go hard. I would love to get some brand new Borbet type A 17x8.5" ET13's, but since borbet don't make them, I'm restricted to second hand or "reproductions"