DIY: Body Rust Repair

[_Matt_ 42]

I only did this myself as it was in a relatively concealed area. However, if done right it can look pretty bloody good.

Problem: (was worse than it looks)

My aim was to give very direct and short instructions on how to fix this (I may have failed)

Step One – gather what you need

- Something to stop you from breathing in the various particles that will be floating around (I used a cheap painters mask, your wife’s turtle neck could also suffice)

- Something to grind (I used a power drill and grinding disc)

- Something to coarsely sand with (I used that steel brush on the power drill)

- Something to clean away dirt during each process (I used wax and grease remover from spray store)

- Something to fill (I used both fiber re-enforced filler and lightweight filler (from Super Cheap/Repco)

- Something to sand down the filler and paint (I used various grades of paper, 80, 180, 600, 1500)

- Something to Mask (I used scotch tape and news paper, the occasional farmers brochure snuck in there too, you know the ones with the hot lingerie models? Yea those ones mmmmm)

- Some spray primer (spray store will happily mix you some)

- Some spray paint (I recommend using the original colour of your car)

- Something to detail with (I used cutting compound, general polish, and wax)

- Have a few old towels and some microfiber cloths handy.

Step Two – Grind, Grind, Grind, it’s the most enjoyable part!

- Use the grinding disc to grind ALL the rust out (remember, rust is not just orange, all the darker coloured spots you will expose is all rust, you need to get down to bare clean steel, even if it means making holes through the body.

- Use the steel brush to clean up all the steel (I switched between both this and the grinding disc to help me see if I had removed all the rust)

Step Three – Fill

- If you have made holes in your body work mix up some Fiber Re-enforced filler and apply it behind the body work (press it in so it nicely fills the holes)

- If needed, sand back the filler that should have come through the holes.

- Clean the area with a towel and some of the wax and grease remover

- Mix up the Lightweight Filler and apply on the repair area generously (remember, it’s a hell of a lot easier to apply to much and sand back then in is to not apply enough and be left with little places that don’t fill the shape of the body correctly)

- Once set, sand back. Start off with 80 grade paper. I’m sure you can decide when to move to 180 and then to 600. (be careful not to get to deep with the 80 grade, as you could accidentally remove filler that was covering very small marks left from the grinding.

- To really get the filler smooth, soak the 600 in water for an hour or so and wet sand.

Step Four – Prime

- Here are some pictures of how to mask. It helps using the serious face during this process.

This method shown gives a soft edge to the paint so long as you don’t spray directly at it. (Always mask a smaller area for priming than what you will for the top coat)

My masked area for top coat: (that subtle line you see is my primer mask)

- Clean the surface with the wax and grease remover

- Once you’ve applied 2 or 3 coats, wet sand with 600 and clean once again.

Step Five – Top Coat

- Find logical edges on the body that could potentially be used to aid blending (my choice was obviously behind the bumper and that lower indent on the fender. Mask a generous area making sure you will not create hard lines when you have sprayed, hard masking will just create a film like edge that will flake off.

- Apply the paint a good 30-40cm away from the area in continuous horizontal streaks (don’t apply so much that it starts sagging)

- When you are happy with the coverage let it dry and remove the tape. (Slowly)

Step Six – Finishing Off

What you should have now is a nice matte finish that will be quite rough if you run your hand over it.

- Soak the 1500 paper in water for good hour and start sanding the area in one direction (do not apply a lot of pressure)

- The aim is to do this until the whole area is smooth and you cant see any of the spray texture. (you will see it getting quite dull but don’t worry that’s normal, this is also a good reason why you want to apply a generous amount of top coat)

- Once you are satisfied with the sanding job. Put some cutting compound on a dry microfiber cloth and start rubbing. You will see it beginning to shine.

- Apply polish and buff

- Apply wax and buff

DONE! Time for a few beers and a drive (preferably not in that order).

Edited December 19, 2010 by _Matt_

[cliffdunedin 8]

Handy write up Matt...you'd be amazed how many people can't do this. Good job

Perhaps a sticky, mods?

[tire 10]

Sorry, can you go into more detail about what you did with the tape to make it have a soft edge? How does that work?

I'm not doing a rust repair but its interesting nonetheless.

[_Matt_ 42]

Sorry, can you go into more detail about what you did with the tape to make it have a soft edge? How does that work?

I'm not doing a rust repair but its interesting nonetheless.

tell me 1st if you are pulling E-Sarcasm

[tire 10]

Ha, I must sound like a massive dork. I'm actually dead serious. Often when I paint stuff I peel the tape off and it takes flakes away with it.

[_Matt_ 42]

look at how I've folded the tape...this means half wont stick to the body and when you spray, a slight amount of paint will get underneath creating a soft gradual edge.

Edited August 6, 2010 by _Matt_

[tire 10]

That makes cents. Thanks heaps!