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_Matt_

Pads holding rotors.

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I replaced all my shocks and springs the other day and since I've done that my front wheels don't spin freely due to the pads holding onto the rotors. I thought it was because I didn't install them properly but I fixed it and as soon as I drove again the pad have reverted back to holding onto the rotors.

My bro says my old calipers might not be contracting properly after releasing the brakes. Could this be it?

Advice?

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Take the slides out and give them a real good clean.

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Uninstalled calipers, cleaned sliders, pads and pistons with brakleen and wire brush. Re-installed, turned car on hit brakes. No difference :( they are stuck to the point where I have to put a decent amount of effort into turning the rotors with my hands.

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Master cylinder, not letting the fluid return freely and holds some pressure in the line???

Pedal not adjusted out fully???

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Should re-grease the caliper sliders when you put them back in too, I was told to use copper grease.

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Master cylinder, not letting the fluid return freely and holds some pressure in the line???

Pedal not adjusted out fully???

it only began after I installed shocks and springs so I don't think its the pedal and I didn't disconnect any brake lines to disrupt pressure.

Should re-grease the caliper sliders when you put them back in too, I was told to use copper grease.

Ill try this next. I wonder if super cheap has copper grease.

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I have cleaned and greased the slides, pads, piston etc with proper brake grease and again it flows freely until I hit the brake. hmmm.

something else disturbed from the suspension replacement?

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From what you describe I can't see that you would have done anything with the struts to cause this.

It should be fairly obvious as to what is sticking & causing the problem. I suggest if you are not able to confirm the cause then get a proffesional to look over it.

You mention lubing slides, pads, pistons with proper brake grease - did you take the pistons out? If so - did you lubricate these with rubber grease? This is all you should have used there.

If you haven't actually removed the piston to check - it could be partially siezed

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No I haven't removed the pistons, I did what I could without having to bleed the brakes. I might look in to a new set of rotors/calipers and get the pros to do it.

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I have heard of the hoses getting damaged when callipers unbolted which causes the inner layer of the hose to break away and constrict the fluid flow from returning.

Is it effecting one side or both?

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It's both. drivers side is worse though I think.

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If its both then it will be either the master cylinder or something that pushes the master cylinder, ie the brake pedal, or linkages.

Try just cracking off the bleed nipples on the callipers, (dont touch the pedal) and see if that frees it up. then do them back up. (shouldnt require bleeding after that as long as you are carefull not to press the pedal or anything).

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That seemed to help Oli. I cracked all four nipples from the furthest to the nearest caliper to the master cylinder. The fronts still holds but not as much, it's similar to a bike with a buckled wheel now.

maybe both rotors are warped and I've only just noticed? Ill have to see if i can here the same vibration after the bleed.

Edited by _Matt_

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