fuel pressure regulator e30 320i

[bradi65 4]

hay guys.

iv got a 1989 e30 320i the m20b20 motor. having a few problems with fuel, i think its my injectors leaking but i was looking to see if anyone had a fuel pressure regular that i could buy. As this is a cheaper start than replacing my injectors, also if anyone has or know where to get reasonably priced injectors i would be interested.

[danutt 4]

hay guys.

iv got a 1989 e30 320i the m20b20 motor. having a few problems with fuel, i think its my injectors leaking but i was looking to see if anyone had a fuel pressure regular that i could buy. As this is a cheaper start than replacing my injectors, also if anyone has or know where to get reasonably priced injectors i would be interested.

youre porbably on the right track...having hard start issues arnt you??

i was and figured the fuel rail was loosing pressure overnight or if it sits for a while because once running it would start easy everytime

so threw in a second hand FPR and now starts first time every time

if its not that it could be a leaky injector and ud test that by removing fuel rail and applying power to fuel pump to see if any leak

if not that theres a check valve on the pump that could be the culprit

hope this helps

[bradi65 4]

youre porbably on the right track...having hard start issues arnt you??

i was and figured the fuel rail was loosing pressure overnight or if it sits for a while because once running it would start easy everytime

so threw in a second hand FPR and now starts first time every time

if its not that it could be a leaky injector and ud test that by removing fuel rail and applying power to fuel pump to see if any leak

if not that theres a check valve on the pump that could be the culprit

hope this helps

yea when its left for a few days it will be hard to start, i have to have my foot flat on the accerlator and then it finily starts up after turning the key 4 about 10sec. it does it when its warm tho too. i turn it off one day and then it just wouldnt start again. i talked to a mechanic and he thinks that the injectors probly wont be the problem but iv seen alot of forms on the net where that has been the prob. iv hurd about that valve could be this but i have replaced the fuel pump with a 2nd hand one and still have the same problem.

[danutt 4]

yea when its left for a few days it will be hard to start, i have to have my foot flat on the accerlator and then it finily starts up after turning the key 4 about 10sec. it does it when its warm tho too. i turn it off one day and then it just wouldnt start again. i talked to a mechanic and he thinks that the injectors probly wont be the problem but iv seen alot of forms on the net where that has been the prob. iv hurd about that valve could be this but i have replaced the fuel pump with a 2nd hand one and still have the same problem.

get anyone with an m20 to lend you the fuel pressure regulator coz they are 207 bux so its not a cheap part lol

sounds like what mine was doing and shes golden now it annoyed me aswell

[Etwenty1 45]

hay guys.

iv got a 1989 e30 320i the m20b20 motor. having a few problems with fuel, i think its my injectors leaking but i was looking to see if anyone had a fuel pressure regular that i could buy. As this is a cheaper start than replacing my injectors, also if anyone has or know where to get reasonably priced injectors i would be interested.

Have you checked the dis cap? once the terminals get badly pitted the car will crank for ages before firing.

[bradi65 4]

get anyone with an m20 to lend you the fuel pressure regulator coz they are 207 bux so its not a cheap part lol

sounds like what mine was doing and shes golden now it annoyed me aswell

iv brought one for 40 bux even if its not the problem i figured a spear wouldn't hurt =]

[bradi65 4]

Have you checked the dis cap? once the terminals get badly pitted the car will crank for ages before firing.

no i havent check it. iv checked for spark and thats about it. is it just i visual check ? would you be able to give me a few details on how to check please ?

[Etwenty1 45]

no i havent check it. iv checked for spark and thats about it. is it just i visual check ? would you be able to give me a few details on how to check please ?

If you need details on how to check it you might be best getting a mechanic to do. ( no disrespect intended) Do you have a haynes manual?

access is tricky unless you have tiny hands (mmmm tiny hands) Leave the HT leads on, there are 3? captive bolts holding the cap on the front of the engine.( I have seen come caps in an easier location but that was a 323i) you will need a small socket or a ratcheting box wrench. the bottom one you have to undo by feel. Undo those 3 bolts and pull them back, (long threads but they special washers so they wont fall out) then carefully tilt/rotate the cap and wriggle it out sideways. Check the contact points inside the cap - 6 brass terminals, and look for cracks or tracking on the plastic. Also check the contact point of the rotor which can be cleaned with fine sandpaper. If the points in the cap are all pitted or corroded you will need to replace. There is also a centre contact on a spring.

If you haven't changed it in 6 months i would recommend doing it and the rotor arm - my 325 seems to chew through then every 6 months or so. If you do change it label the HT leads and the cap so you can match it up. Pull the leads off using the caps, not on the lead wire itself or you may break them.(new leads more $$$)

when you reassemble take care not to damage the rotor (this comes off with an allen key ) The cap will only go on one way and you want it square and evenly tightened. If the cap is mis aligned at start up you will be buying another.

[bradi65 4]

If you need details on how to check it you might be best getting a mechanic to do. ( no disrespect intended) Do you have a haynes manual?

access is tricky unless you have tiny hands (mmmm tiny hands) Leave the HT leads on, there are 3? captive bolts holding the cap on the front of the engine.( I have seen come caps in an easier location but that was a 323i) you will need a small socket or a ratcheting box wrench. the bottom one you have to undo by feel. Undo those 3 bolts and pull them back, (long threads but they special washers so they wont fall out) then carefully tilt/rotate the cap and wriggle it out sideways. Check the contact points inside the cap - 6 brass terminals, and look for cracks or tracking on the plastic. Also check the contact point of the rotor which can be cleaned with fine sandpaper. If the points in the cap are all pitted or corroded you will need to replace. There is also a centre contact on a spring.

If you haven't changed it in 6 months i would recommend doing it and the rotor arm - my 325 seems to chew through then every 6 months or so. If you do change it label the HT leads and the cap so you can match it up. Pull the leads off using the caps, not on the lead wire itself or you may break them.(new leads more $$$)

when you reassemble take care not to damage the rotor (this comes off with an allen key ) The cap will only go on one way and you want it square and evenly tightened. If the cap is mis aligned at start up you will be buying another.

No offence taken im not a mechanic im a electronics tech lol, just like to try do things myself, thanks for the details iv got a mate that is a mechanic so ill take your advice and also get him to help me out. and iv got the manual so hopefully i wont make anything worse and if i do ill have more annoying questions for you guys.

thanks heaps.