Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted September 27, 2014 (edited) As above - does anyone have a hookup with Stocks? The Bilsteins on the front of my E36 have failed, edge of wheel arch is leaving little feather cuts on the shoulder of the (brand new RE002) front right tyre. I was quoted an extremely good price on a pair of Konis over the phone on Friday afternoon but I need a favour to get them at trade price. Am contemplating running a guard roller on the front but priority is getting the shocks in order first! Thanks guys! Edited September 27, 2014 by Ahmedsinc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted September 27, 2014 If the wheel arch is hacking your tyres , the problem will be suspension geometry relying on shock performance to manage this is probably not a long term strategy and how exactly has "shock failure" led to the problem? I assumed a worn strut would lead to excessive travel -> guard contacting tyre shoulder on bump. Alignment was done when front tyres were replaced in March. Current setup is Bilstein branded Eibach springs (40mm +/- drop) with what I assume are Bilstein sport struts. Older 20mm tube type (non rebuildable) as opposed to newer 40mm. Installed about 18 months ago as a short term solution to knackered factory shocks (were bled dry of fluid when I chopped them open to look inside) and as expected I think they're buggered! Will hopefully be dismantling an E36 with Msport springs shortly that I plan to use in place of the Eibachs - a little too low for my liking. Top hats still appear ok but will be replaced with struts, CABs renewed with urethane items just before Bilsteins went in. Had a chat with the guy on the phone at Stocks & he seemed to agree that the struts are the culprit here. Cheers for the input Ron Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted September 27, 2014 Upward travel ( suspension compression) is predominantly determined by spring rate , with additional rate control by the shock. BUT - if correctly set up the suspension should still be able to hit the bump stops (hard) without contacting the wheel arch Unless you have no bump stops you should feel this long before the guard rubs, and if you have no bump stops your shocks will almost certainly be rooted. The type of bump stop is also very important when using lowered springs - you should go to a longer tapered stop that starts work earlier and creates a softer landing to prevent what you are experiencing. This assumes reduced overall travel. in the suspension - If you have same travel but start 40mm closer to the guard then there are additional factors to consider. Probably ought to have mentioned earlier that the bump stops have disintegrated. Oops. Is there any difference between Msport and standard top hats? M3 items allow for the greater caster along with CABs and control arm, but are the non M3 items the same? There is quite a bit of bounce when leaning on the front corners, seems pretty obvious to me that the struts are toasted. Will need to double check the part numbers but I'm 99% certain from memory that the springs are 6 cyl ones, not 4 cyl. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted September 28, 2014 Should have been more clear, sorry - I'm aware the M3s use vastly different geometry but I'm not looking at using M3 parts. Doesn't feel too easy to push down on the guard, but it does sink a little then rebound after releasing - ie it goes through a second smaller compression and rebound cycle after releasing the guard. I guess what I'm trying to get at is will a new pair of M-sport spec Konis, top hats and new bump stops cure the contacting guard issue? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted September 28, 2014 (edited) It all depends on how the suspension is set up. Ignore the top hats they are the same. Your description of a "second" compression is real weird - If you push down and it goes down a bit then whilst still under pressure it sinks a bit further sounds very much like the compression damping is masking soft springs , i.e. the shock oil flows past the valving and then as expected reduces the amount of damping, this is then allowing the load to further compress the spring. If I push down on mine with both hands it moves about 5mm -- If I jump on the guard directly above the wheel it will drop about 10mm and it springs straight back. and I weigh 85 kg How far can you push yours down by hand By second compression cycle I mean push down on the guard then release. Once it has returned to full height it dips a little then returns to height. Kinda like it keeps bouncing a little. Rear end dips roughly 5mm, feels nice and stiff. Front dips more than 10mm, feels far softer. I'm 6"1', 105kg so I have a fair bit of weight to throw around. Edited September 28, 2014 by Ahmedsinc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted September 28, 2014 front shocks are stuffed the second cycle is overshoot , springs also sound soft Confirms my initial thinking, hopefully the springs aren't also to blame. Will look at a pair of H&R springs as well, bit of a pain in the ass but oh well. Thanks for the input mate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted September 28, 2014 If you can pm me the part numbers i can let you know what my trade price would do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
