E30 rear strut tower reinforcement

[Blackfrogg 1]

Hi there. Looking at reinforcing the rear strut towers of my e30. Can only find things overseas, was wondering if anyone has done this locally and what they did/spent, and the results. Cheers

[E30-323ti 66]

Most places have the Z3 reinforcement plates available, if that is what you are after, or there are these shock tower repair plates.

Mason Engineering also do this rear strut tower brace which also reinforces the strut tower mounts.

[Blackfrogg 1]

Yea thanks I've already looked into all those options but was wondering if I could save myself some shipping and get something done here in New Zealand and if anyone knew a good place

[E30-323ti 66]

Well the Z3 reinforcement plate and the repair plate are just flat plate and straight forward to draw-up and get laser / water cut locally...

[Evo30 6]

Make it yourself, its what I did.

Measure and make templates with cardboard if you have no access to any tools, all you need to do the mod is an angle grinder, a measuring tool of some sort, a marker, scissors, cardboard. Cut your shapes out and copy them over to a 5mm piece of steel for the FLAT plates on the camber and toe support (5mm is usually what certifiers like to see) for the rest of the work like welding take it to a shop you are confident with their work. I don't believe you need a certified welder to do this work for you, so your back yard mate with that gasless mig welder should be able to do it for a box of piss, it wont be pretty though. But don't quote me on that, do get pissed anyway.. just not when using that angle grinder.

You can do all your measuring while the trailing arms are on the car and test out templates and pre cut met pieces. So you do not need to rush. Take your time get it right.

North Shore Steel cuts to length but not to fit, meaning they wont make funky shapes for you. They will just cut squares and sh*t.

1. Remove trailing arms - optional to remove half shaft, but if you replace bearings you might as well.
2. Buy new trailing arm bushes might as well splash out a little here while you are at it. Maybe some rear bearings to do, also look in to stainless steel brake hose while you are at it.

3. Make the middle bar using a squashed pipe since it will have a nice fit in to the centre of the trailing arm. It's called an "A" frame btw due to shape for bonus knowledge points on the subject when you brag to your mates.
4. Make a plate, weld this at the bottom of the shock bolt to the trailing arm.
5. Make another plate, weld this from the back of the hub to the trailing arm.
6. Wirebrush everything, remove old rusty dodgy patches and stuck stones from that 20 year old trailing arm

7. Paint, I splashed out here and used VHT high temp paint due to resistance of the coating... but you dont need to. Enamel will be fine, super cheap deals.

For extra added reinforcement if you are cranking high torque/hp (commonly done by v8 swaps) is to reinforce the subframe mounting holes are they rip to shreds on high horse power.

Good luck.

Edited March 31, 2015 by Evo30

[Blackfrogg 1]

Yea thanks sorted it all late last year. Never the less good info for anyone looking to do the same in the future