Race car prepping

[Guest Andrew]

hah - going testing tommorow with some swaybar changes and a new diff.

But sure enough - give your friendly mechanic a pen (The Gus) and he goes crazy. This must add at least 20k to the value of the car.

[Guest Andrew]

and for your information- your friendly product testing service

45 laps of pukekohe - = 1 set of Mintex M1166 pads from Racebrakes. This is the last time i'm using these brakes - am going for a proper setup.

[Guest Andrew]

Another helpful tip - if you run a really stiff rear sway bar on a track dedicated e30 - you WILL bend the little tabs that it mounts to. I think welding some nice triangle pieces under it would fix it.

[Guest Andrew]

When you get your oil sump baffled - try and get a sump that isn't damaged to start with. For all those that were at the track with me a few weeks ago - this is why I was leaking. Big assed cracks in the sump - will see how it goes tomorrow.

[Guest Spargo]

Want my M3 brakes

Dude, you've been on r3v long enough to know about the sway tabs!

Edit: i'm cruising out to puke tomorrow, what time should I rock up? txt me tonite as I don't have your digits anymore.

Edited March 23, 2006 by Spargo

[Gus 5]

i rule

[*sic 1]

i rule

badass ar-tist style

[Gus 5]

andy's door has not made an appearance yet

[Guest Andrew]

Want my M3 brakes

Dude, you've been on r3v long enough to know about the sway tabs!

Edit: i'm cruising out to puke tomorrow, what time should I rock up? txt me tonite as I don't have your digits anymore.

If it goes ahead - it may not if with have issues with the diff tonight - then around 10 will be mint.

Also depending on weather - no way i'm driving in the rain again - that was teh lame.

[Steve K-B 51]

I wish i didnt have work. Id be there in a sec.

I recken you should get ferodo ds3000. Just because they look fricken cool at night

[conrod 1]

The DS3000's are good, but still no substitute for decent size brakes. The E30 325 front brakes are pretty average in size, but the rears are puny, not so much the (solid) rotor, which will overheat quite quickly, but the pad, which is tiny.

[martyyn 2]

This must add at least 20k to the value of the car.

and a good 7-10 bhp

[conrod 1]

and a good 7-10 bhp

and will probably knock a few tenths of your lap time!........

[Steve K-B 51]

The DS3000's are good, but still no substitute for decent size brakes.

In my experance they are extremly good. But thats with 300mm discs. Each to there own i guess

[conrod 1]

In my experance they are extremly good. But thats with 300mm discs. Each to there own i guess

300mm is getting more like it, especially with a thicker section rotor, that won't overheat so quickly.

[cainchapman 0]

So that means you should fit the E34 5 series gear and Mintex 1166's Andrew.

If mine stops that quick, what would yours be like? Lock up central, I'd guess.

[Guest Andrew]

300mm is getting more like it, especially with a thicker section rotor, that won't overheat so quickly.

yeah currently looking at 300mm 2 peice rotors, wilwood dynalites and the mintex pads again.

Just got back from hamz - god i hope the small case diff will fit with my half shafts.

[DCEIVN 0]

45 laps of pukekohe - = 1 set of Mintex M1166 pads from Racebrakes

I hear your pain - mine lasted 40 laps of Manfield. Didn't last on the drive back to Wellington though :thumbsdown:

[conrod 1]

yeah currently looking at 300mm 2 peice rotors, wilwood dynalites and the mintex pads again.

Just got back from hamz - god i hope the small case diff will fit with my half shafts.

Wlilwoods are okay, as long as you aren't planning on being the last of the late brakers!

[smokenbaby 0]

2 things here, DS3000 are a great pad for medium sized cars like he E30. The only thing I will say about the DS3000 is. DONT use them after they have hit the half warn thickness. They fall apart and you are left with no brakes. On our PRO7's we use them and they work bloody well. Great peddle feel and there is no fade and they work pretty much from the first corner. We use BNT Rebonds at the Manfield 4 hour enduro last june. Brand new Bedded fronts at the start of the race and we got the whole 4 hours out of them. OK, on the last lap, we had no brakes left at all and the pad backing plate was melted to the caliper piston.

Wilwood Dinalites are a good Caliper. I ran them on my Datsun 1200 SS2000 car. 240hp Formular Atlantic motor in it and it stopped fantastic. OK I was using the Wilwood Peddle box and Dinalite rear Calipers as well and the car only weighed 700kg. But all in all they were a great setup.

When going to a larger diameter disc, be carefull as they have some negative effects as well. They will help you stop but up an have pad knock off (when the stub axle flex's under braking and this “knocks” the pad off the disc causing poor braking) which can be as bad if not worse than the current setup on your car. Also they require more effort to stop (braking force) as the larger the disc the more inertia (Spelling) it carries. Also it adds more “unsprung” weight to your car.

But on the plus side, BIG brakes not only give you the chance of stopping better and more controlled, they also look blood cool in behind your wheels.

Good luck with your brake upgrade and hope it all turns out good.

[E30-323ti 66]

and for your information- your friendly product testing service

45 laps of pukekohe - = 1 set of Mintex M1166 pads from Racebrakes. This is the last time i'm using these brakes - am going for a proper setup.

Good call, finally!!

Who is making the hats & caliper mounts??

Have a look at the wilwood Dynapro's, radially mounted (easy to put on bigger dia. disc's without needing new mounts) and have dust boots (so you don't need to rebuild them after every event).

[conrod 1]

Okay perhaps the sarcasm in my last post was lost, Wilwood brakes in all of my experience are very average-people use them because they stop okay and are cheap. Put a vernier caliper across one and get someone to stomp on the brake pedal and see what happens- they spread apart! As well as that, the rotors are crap, if you are doing really hard stops lap after lap they don't last. If you are going to spend a lot of dough getting hats and mounting brackets etc. made up, then spend the bit extra and buy AP, even the "road" calipers (the black ones with yellow writing) are a MUCH better caliper than any Wilwood, and same goes for the rotors. Price the calipers through Trade Parts, or I have heard BNT can get them too, they are not that expensive.

Of course, if you just want to brake with the rest of the pack, and not be the last one to outbrake everyone into that big sweeper at the end of the straight, the WW's will probably be okay!..............

[Guest Andrew]

Gus here-

I have heard about the wilwood flex...have also heard you can get a brace across the caliper that prevents this...i think gerry experienced this in the 635 targa car?

who stocks AP racing?

[conrod 1]

A brace? Sounds like a band-aid to me! Give BNT a call,I was told they could get them.Or try Eugene at Trade Parts, 4440901. He is a bit rude sometimes, but get past that and he should be able to sort a good price on some AP's, he has brought in a few sets for people I know. These are the "road" spec. ones but many people I know use these for racing, the main difference being they have dust seals fitted and are a better price than the "race" versions. Simon Curry is the NZ distributor for AP racing- 0508simoncurry

Edited March 23, 2006 by conrod

[E30-323ti 66]

Okay perhaps the sarcasm in my last post was lost, Wilwood brakes in all of my experience are very average-people use them because they stop okay and are cheap.

Not lost Conrod just overlooked , I assumed Andrew had made the decision to use wilwoods based on budget constraints, I offered the Dynapro being a better caliper than the dynalite for similar $$$.

I'm not endorsing the wilwoods, but from my experience, building a car is all about compromises if your not loaded with $$$ (unless it's safety related), the choice between stock, wilwood or AP's is one of these, sure it's nice to have the best, but do you need the best?? and can you afford the best??

FYI

I priced the AP CP5200 (road 4pot) from simon curry, and they were ~$850+gst each,

Compared to ~$240 for the dynalite's (which IMO are much better than stock calipers when used with bigger disc etc...)!! They're not really comparible in price or quality!!