Gus 5 Report post Posted February 24, 2004 soo....today trying to figure out why my car never starts and ive been having to push....come to these conclusions.... 1) battery was putting out 11.9 V before car runs...12.2 after (going to do overnight test sometime to see if its losing charge) 2) while running putting out 13.5 V looking at haynes battery should be round 12 at rest and between 14-15 V when running....so im pretty sure my alternator is buggered.....and with that the battery would be....sooo i dont spose you can repair alternators? $$ of a new one? $$ of a BMW battery..... ah the fun...got a few more push starts ahead of me Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted February 24, 2004 and before i forget....i was looking at my amp when there are no keys in the ignition....the little light was on.....is this normal? got it disc at the mo to save batt power...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Viking 0 Report post Posted February 24, 2004 I havent seen an amp that does that, all lights on them should turn off if you turn your head unit off unless the remote turn on cable is wired to a always on power circuit somewhere else in the car but I'm pretty sure its only a few volts of an input on that cable. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gmccormack 0 Report post Posted February 24, 2004 Sounds like your amps wired wrong & has killed your battery,probably not alternator prob unless charge light stays on with engine running Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Andrew Report post Posted February 24, 2004 Where did you measure voltage across? Not the batt? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted February 24, 2004 charge light? where that? yeah measure across the batt.....gonna have a look at amp wiring now.....been playing around and the only thing i can think of is the remote cable but that is directly (as far as i can see) wired to the amp from the headunit....even with the faceplate removed the amp is still on...gonna try removing the whole thing and seeing if it turns off....but any suggestions? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Viking 0 Report post Posted February 24, 2004 You could put a switch in the remote line as a last resort to get around the problem. Stick a volt meter across the remote cable to see if its behaving correctly to the ignition outputs (off at off and on at ignition on). If its just staying on, your headunit might be to blame, guess a switch would be cheaper :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gus 5 Report post Posted February 24, 2004 yeah....just means a whole lot of extra hassle..might just stick with getting out car into boot and unplugging amp when i stop.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Andrew Report post Posted February 25, 2004 measuring across the batt won't actually measure the voltage of the system. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gmccormack 0 Report post Posted February 25, 2004 charge light? where that? yeah measure across the batt.....gonna have a look at amp wiring now.....been playing around and the only thing i can think of is the remote cable but that is directly (as far as i can see) wired to the amp from the headunit....even with the faceplate removed the amp is still on...gonna try removing the whole thing and seeing if it turns off....but any suggestions? The charge light is the one next to the oil light .It only glows when the alternator cant keep pace with the electrical load placed on the battery while the ignition is on. The voltage at the battery should be greater than 12V (no load & engine off) if its in good shape Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
