What's it worth

[lidistick 70]

basically for insurance purposes once mods are in place.

E36 328i 1996

76K kms

5spd MANUAL - current has auto but box sourced.

simota carbon fibre CAI

Whiteline front strut and rear-swaybar

Bilstein shocks with H&R springs

18" BBS RC 18x8.5"

225/40/18 Toyo Proxes CT01

If I can get an indication, that'll be awesome. The dealers valuation is pretty stingy and some say $12K.

Cheers.

[MADBMA 0]

the insurance company will tell you what its worth in most cases, they will take a valuation of the car, all depending on year and what not, i think they have a big list of cars valuations, then will ask you for the price of all your mods, i think you can do other policys where you just ask to be insured for a set amount but the premiums are higher.

[lidistick 70]

Yep this is for a guaranteed value. They told me to give them a figure and then they'll come back with the premium.

[Yuen 16]

Yep this is for a guaranteed value. They told me to give them a figure and then they'll come back with the premium.

Not sure, but just wanted to say I like your taste in wheels RCs in 18" are hot!

[E30stz 0]

Around 14-16k is my guess.

[MADBMA 0]

yeah id say 15k, but you could insure it for what ever you want if you were doing it that way, just be wary of the premiums.

[kerrynzl 3]

Hey try not to kid yourself here,

If the insurance company does a full payout, they will get it valued again anyway

[meanwhile they'll accept the higher premiums] they argue that is your burden to value it correctly

Years ago they tried paying out $5500 towards my wifes Laser ,that was Sold for $7500 [it was being delivered when it was totalled] [you would assume that market value "was it's selling price"] It took some clever negotiations with a loss adjuster to get the settlement

I have a 1995 328 [manual conversion coupe] with 17 x 8 BBS's and Bilsteins and Lowered Etc done 78000K's [mint car in red]

I would happily sell it for half the amount you have mentioned [it doesn't have a pod filter or strut brace tho]

Insurance Companies & Car dealers know their market values [it's their business]

[lidistick 70]

hi there Kerry,

Are you saying that the market value of a E36 328 is now under $10K?

[kerrynzl 3]

The Old story: there is a huge difference between "ASKING & SELLING" prices [market value]

[no two used cars are alike]

Mine is a Coupe,a year older, 1000K's higher & less mods. [a person wanting a 'standard' car can take their pick these days]

Depends on whether they are prepared to value your Mods & pay for them

I'm serious about the value of my car [if it was a racer with duct-tape & cable ties ,I'd probably value it higher. haha!]

My car is very very tidy [& cheap] I originally bought it to cut up for a race-car [but my missus want's it]

If you have a friend that is a Car Dealer [get an HONEST opinion of what it's worth] [Honest car dealer???]

Just don't trust Loss Adjusters, their job is to screw you [for the insurance companies]

[lidistick 70]

If you have a friend that is a Car Dealer [get an HONEST opinion of what it's worth] [Honest car dealer???]

Just don't trust Loss Adjusters, their job is to screw you [for the insurance companies]

There are honest car dealers.. just hard to find.

I never trust loss adjusters and that's why I want to take them out of the equation by getting a guaranteed value for the car in case of it getting stolen/wrecked etc.

I think I can have 2 options

1) More expensive - insure car and mods separately> Insurance to pay out replacement value for each item and not depreciated value

2) Insure as a whole - cheaper option but value of mods determined by loss adjusters.

I need to see the insurance dude again and see what works for me I suppose.

On another topic, which is better for a RWD car? Front swaybar upgrade, Rear swaybar upgrade, or Both? and what are the dimensions of the stock 328i swaybars? Whiteline do 27mm for the fronts and 22mm for the rears.

Cheers.

[kerrynzl 3]

On another topic, which is better for a RWD car? Front swaybar upgrade, Rear swaybar upgrade, or Both? and what are the dimensions of the stock 328i swaybars? Whiteline do 27mm for the fronts and 22mm for the rears.

Cheers.

Get your mods insured seperately [use an unsurance broker]

statistically ,people with modified cars are accountable for less insurance claims [yet are penalised morein premiums]

RWD: Firstly I'm a believer of stiffer springs before you need stiffer swaybars [the faster you travel, the harder the impact on bumps."try going over a curb at 100kph"]

on a road car where your useage is within the legal limits [most of the time] you need to keep your spring frequency standard [that's why I prefer re-setting springs to lower the car]

Now: Roll stiffness is a combination of spring stiffness & swaybar stiffness. 1G of cornering at 50kph produces the same bodyroll as 1G of cornering at 160kph [you're just going around a bigger curve] So the roll stiffness should be the same

The slower speed requires softer springs for bump control and stiffer swaybars for bodyroll [the faster speeds need stiffer springs for bump control and SOFTER swaybars] the combination that produces roll stiffness gets the same result.

Now:[in simple terms] the stiffest end of the Car will always slide-out first in a corner! Stiff Front =understeer, Stiff Rear= oversteer. If your car has an open-diff, you need to keep the rear soft[for traction]so you stiffen the front only [which produces understeer]then you need a lot of negative camber to help cure this [which causes camber thrust,"unstable in a straight line etc"]

Remember all these quirks only happen when the weakest link [the tires] are at the limit

Personally.for an E36 road car,I'd use M3 springs and bars [or replicas of the same spec] Re-set the springs to the desired ride height,then get a full wheel allignment [to stock-specs,but at the new ride height] The car will handle better than you or me are capable of driving "on the road" under 90% of situations [the track is a different situation]

[kerrynzl 3]

Dont quote me as being correct ;but the 328 might have a larger front because off an open diff [i'll crawl under my 328 with some verniers and get some numbers,my little coupe handles well + it's civilized enough for daily driving]

It'll probably be cheaper to get a bar made that fits [to M3 specs] than to move pick-ups

[can you tell me where they are moved, eg: outward or inward etc?]

[kiwi535 538]

for "market prices" just browse trademe...its sickening but true.A car is only worth what someone is wanting to pay for it,and in most cases your mods are worth nothing,it just means someone may take your car over the std one.The wheels may be the exception.

[Jazzbass 1]

Are you saying that the market value of a E36 328 is now under $10K?

I'd certainly agree with that. I know someone who had been trying to sell his '96 328 Coupe for over a year. He was trying to get back more towards what he paid for it ($26k) - yeah, I know, but he's a tightwad. In the end, he sold it privately for $10k and thought he was lucky to get that. Dealers offered him $5-$7k.

[Guest Andrew]

$11990 on a yard.

[Jazzbass 1]

Sounds about right, Andrew.

I've owned two E36s, there won't be another for me.

[lidistick 70]

OK thanks for that.

Might just go ahead and convert it into my track car vs buying a Type R.