Mikal 4 Report post Posted December 11, 2006 Hi i had my car serviced and was given a list of things that are not urgent but as I get the money I will get them fixed. I would like to know what can be done by me (16 year old noob). Also how much have others had to spend to get these things fixed.. Written as on technicians report.... -Needs reaction rod bushes. -P/steering hose weaping. -Recomend fuel return hose. -Recomend brake fluid flush (dirty). -Needs alternator bushes (collapsed). -Recomend P/steering fluid flush (burnt). -Recomend all belts (starting to crack). -Shift oil mounts need tightening. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike 1 Report post Posted December 11, 2006 (edited) Get yourself a bently workshop manual if you haven't already. Also if your unsure of anything get your oldman or a mate who knows cars to help you. Anyway my 2c on the jobs... -Needs reaction rod bushes. Bit tricky, if you going OEM replacement you need a press. I did powerflex ones myself though -P/steering hose weaping. -Recomend P/steering fluid flush (burnt). Haven't done PS stuff before, can't see it being to tricky though. -Recomend fuel return hose. should be able to do this, I imagine it will just be a couple of clamps. -Recomend brake fluid flush (dirty). Easy, follow instructions in manual, or I think there is a guide on the site somewhere. I'm surprised it wasn't done as part of service. -Needs alternator bushes (collapsed). Just get a new alternator, easy enough to replace yourself. or get a price for new bushings, whatevers cheaper. -Recomend all belts (starting to crack). Easy enough. -Shift oil mounts need tightening. Dunno what they mean here? Edited December 11, 2006 by Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mikal 4 Report post Posted December 11, 2006 Thanks for the advice. the writing is a little messy so it could also just be shifter mounts? i would'nt have a clue lol. I suppose reaction rod bushes is on the top of my to do list. Does anyone have an idea on how much this will cost to fix? just a rough estimate will be a help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
will 169 Report post Posted December 11, 2006 First thing to do MUST be fuel hoses... these things ignite easily, one on tardeme right now with fire damage. Couple of fellas here on the site that have had burnouts... not nice !!! Change ALL the hoses with good hose for fuel injection systems, not cheap sh*t. Don't skimp and only do some of them, not worth risking it for the cost of a few metres of hose. Reaction bushes are tricky if you dont have a press but will only cause tyre wear and not so good handling. Probably easier to get them done unless your skill level is good. Put decent solid ones while at it, they will help your handling. Alternator bushes are those horrible rubber mounting bushes used in earlier Bm's in an attempt to remove vibration... they go all soggy and the alternator ends up misaligned. (he is not referring to the bearings in the alternator here, if those were gone you would have a major noise and probably no charging). Either get some teflon bushes made up (you will need 3) or get a later model alternator which doesn't have these useless bushes. I would get another alternator as getting the bushes made would probably cost more than a secondhand alternator unless you have a buddy to make them for you. Powersteering hose weeping is common, normally one of the hose clamps is loose. Just tighten all the clamps. To flush successfully you need to remove the return hose to the reservoir bottle and add an extension (shove a piece of garden hose into it) and put it in a large container like a 5litre oil can. Get a mate to start the car and let it idle. When the reservoir is empty, add new fluid slowly till the fluid being pumped into the container is nice and clear. Switch off the motor, reconnect the hose and fill with fluid. Start again and check again after all the air bubbles are gone from the reservoir bottle. Running the system without fluid for a short period won't damage it, ther will be enough residual fluid around to continue lubricating the pump but do NOT run the car above idle. If you simply remove a hose and drain the fluid, you will not get rid of the old muck. This will probably require about 4litres of new ATF fluid to perform successfully. To change brake fluid you will need a length of clear hose, buy some from a pet shop, the type that is used for air lines in a fish tank. Start at one of the rear wheels. open the bleed nipple, push the hose over the end and put the other end into a container, pref a clear one. A glass jamjar with a hole punched through the lid works nicely here. A decent length of clear hose will allow you to place the jamjar next to the driver's door where you can observee the fluid coming ito it. Pump the pedal till the fluid in the brake fluid reservoir just disappears. (Don't add fluid to the reservoir until the fluid just empties from it or all you will get is a mix of old and new fluid). Stop and add fluid slowly into the reservoir. (only one of the chambers will empty at a time). Get back in the car and pump again watching the fluid enter into the jamjar. It will be obvious when the fluid coming out is clean, especially if you use a coloured brake fluid. Keep an eye on the reservoir and top up as necessary. Once the fluid is nice and clear coming out of the pipe, close the nipple and remove the pipe and go to the next rear wheel and repeat. (you won't need as much fluid for the second wheel). Repeat for the front wheels. If you can see the jamjar, you will be able to perform the operation yourself, otherwise get a mate to help. Belts are easy to replace, keep the old ones in the boot as spares. I think he is referring to the shift bushes, these get sloppy over time and your gear lever will become like a stirring spoon... replacing them is very tricky, do a search on the forum, I am sure there are details somewhere. If you do it you may as well do a short shifter at the same time. The job involves removing the propshaft, exhaust, heatshield, so is not for the inexperienced. I don't know costs for bushes etc but you will save heaps doing the more basic things. Have fun...!!! Will Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nz320i 0 Report post Posted December 11, 2006 u sure you need to remove all that for a short shift?? i did it without doing any of that.. would have mad it easier though! but i didnt replace the bush nearest the box. Also how hard is it to do a output shaft seal - getrag 260.. sorry for the thread hijack Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
