SpidersWeb

Awesome, cheers for that.

Considering a project for 2011, and wondering weither to use a compact shell or a regular shell. I'm aware of the differences in the rear end suspension etc etc, just curious about up front. With the engines removed, what differences (if any) are there between the front-end on a 318ti compact vs any other regular E36? Specifically any changes to the size of the engine bay, or how the steering is laid out? Hoping some wreckers on here might know

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...2552349.htm?p=2 Any questions feel free to PM or ask on here.

Me again. Need a 4HP22 from an auto 535i from 1988 or 1989, need the older style with the 'M' mode instead of snow mode. I work during the week so dont have time to chase wreckers around, would prefer to buy privately. Looking at around $300-$700 depending on condition. Dont need the torque converter etc just the box itself but will take whatever. Happy to pay shipping if needed. Cheers, Jono

It can be done with an adjustable rising rate fuel pressure reg, and something to retard the ignition. CarTech make a model that has multiple adjustments, to prevent lean outs, think they call it something silly like the 'FMU'. Its not the proper way, its not the best way, it'll run rich at times, but it'll still make good power and keep economy etc off-boost. Obviously you'll want this tuned on a dyno, a big kms engine wont take many pings before to pongs. Still even using the super cheap method, you're talking roughly $1000 for even a cheap turbo that is decent, $750ish for a custom manifold done properly, and decent wastegate can ask for $ as well....... Supercharging will keep the N/A feel but will reduce economy (as it's always running), and cost more for the equipment itself. There are 535i turbo kits in the US that run 6-7psi with and without coolers, and most either have an adj. RRFPR or modify the DME slightly. You dont need a mass array of computers making sure every little thing is perfect. You just need more fuel, and ignition retard. For 2K you could consider a 288 cam (Kelford could probably hook you up), port + polish etc, maybe import a chip and try it out, wont be 300hp but maybe 250-260? Apparently advancing the timing using a 'chip' has a rather big effect on the old M30.

I'm not a BMW expert, but I had this problem on other cars before. Flasher unit needed replacing. Older the unit, worse it gets. No idea where it is in your car, and how much they cost. Should be cheap and easy to find though (I'd hope). In my old Mitsi it was just a square box, looks like a relay, and there were seperate flashing units for the hazards and indicators. Could also be an earth issue, because the lower the voltage the slower the unit works, which is why you'll find it only happens when the engine is off. I'd replace the flasher first or at least swap it out of another car.

Sorry for yet another transmission topic, but have another query I'll tell the breif story first so you get an idea of what is going on. - I purchased a 4HP22 auto from a 1990 535i auto, to go in my 1989 535i auto. - Mechanics fitted it up and found the connectors didn't match (6 pin vs 7pin) - I did some research and found that the valve body could be swapped over, so it was. - Car is all done with a recon'd torque converter etc and drives fine - Except it doesn 't work in Park or Reverse. Now I've moved up to Hamilton, so I have to drive the car up here before I can work out the P/R problem. I was told the transmission was in good condition etc, had done 193,000km. The original died at 250,000km because coolant got in to the ATF. So now I need a bit of advice so I can organise what needs to be done next. A comment on bmwe34.net mentioned that R could be blocked by a faulty magnetic solenoid that has jammed up. I also read that the difference between the 89 and 90 trannys was a 'Reverse Lockout' solenoid, but then we used the 89 valve body so that solenoid wont be there now.......... in theory or am I going to need to find another transmission.......... again. Is there likely to be a cheap fix for this? Any suggestions? My father is picking it up tomorrow or wed, so I can ask him to test anything you might need to know. Reason I'm asking now rather than just sending it to marshalls transmissions or something is because its in wellington, and we need it fixed so we can list it for sale, so if I need to organise another transmission, I'd love a heads up. Thanks again!

lol f**king awesome after all that THE NEW GEARBOX DOESN'T WORK no park, no reverse, but it goes forward now! f**king awesome!! So now I have to buy ANOTHER gearbox, it's proving to be a rather expensive hobby this collecting 'good condition' gearfboxes. So after $850 + what I paid for the gearbox, now I have to drive Useless up to Hamilton without reverse only so I can spend even more money on a car I intended to sell, and the fuel guage still doesn't work properly grrrr *rant over* Anyone from Hamilton/Auckland have a 4HP22 from a 1988 or 1989 535i for sale by any chance?

My list 1985 Ford Fairmont 4.1 Ghia 1986 Honda Integra 1990 Mitsubishi Galant VX-S 1985 Mitsubishi Starion GSR-III 1982 Mitsubishi Starion GSR-X 1984 Mitsubishi Starion GSR-II auto 1987 Mitsubishi Starion EX intercooled (I miss it ) (for those who dont know, Starions are a 2L Turbo RWD coupe, EX had the limited slip diff, 'GSR' versions are the poopy japan versions with open diffs) and now me and my partner joinly own: 1992 325iA Non-VANOS e36 1990 535iSE manual 1989 535iA standard auto 1989 Mazda MX5 (nz new, lightest ever and none of the that power steering or electric window nonsense)

Oh and the water is bright green like it should be, and it doesn't use much, I filled it up and have done about 1000km in it so far, and the warning message hasn't come up yet. 325i is using lots, I suspect the heater on this car. Thanks heaps, sorry for all the little questions but its much appreciated!

I'm still new to BMWs, so have a few questions with regards to my latest addition, a 1990 535i SE manual. When I shut the key off, there is a buzzing noise from behind the dash, sounds like a winding motor, my other 535 does it too, what is that? Can someone educate me on the BMW clutches? If I race off in 1st, then accidently hit 4th the clutch slips instead of the wheels, which I'd expect from a standard clutch, but it's absolutely brutal to use compared to any other manual I've ever driven, it has very tiny movement before it engages and then is very unforgiving. Is this why only 5% were made manual, or is mine broken? I'm used to it now, but it seems unnessecary. . Is there anyway to make gear selection easier? Possibly mine is worse due to high kms (160,000 miles) but its very common for me and my partner to get 4th instead of second, and 3rd instead of 1st. Why the hell did they put reverse right next to 1st? are they insane? The intelligent being who previously had my car fitted a bright blue Momo race wheel, now until I find a standard wheel to put back on, I can live with not being able to read the rev guage, speed, or see where my indicators are set to without ducking my head, but the indicators don't auto cancel - is there a fix for this? Below 2000 rpm the car seems to occasionaly do these small little jolts, almost like its stalling, if I keep the revs above 2500 its happy as, but below this it feels like a normal car would at bellow 900rpm. It doesn't idle well but I put that down to the old ISC due to high kms etc etc, is this related, or is this a sign of something else. It also uses water, water pump has recently been replaced, pipes recently replaced, radiator is a gorgeous aluminium job that has just been redone, so only options I have left are 'heater' and 'gasket', being an M30 its a bit early for gasket trouble, so where do I stick my head to look for a heater leak, and how do I find out if I do have a gasket problem?

boooorrrring

Sorry I can't help too much, but I will say that all 3 of my BMWs lose coolant. 325i M50 chews threw coolant, no leaks etc, so I suspect its the heater pump/pipework as above. 535i SE M30 I haven't owned long enough to find where it going, probably heater pump/pipework, nothing visiable once again. 535i M30 auto is at the mechanics at the moment because the water I was losing was being mixed with ATF in the trans cooler (oh *joy*). Water looked the normal green, but trans fluid was milky white which lead to its dimise.

I bought my 535 SE just for this purpose. Was going to use the standard AFM and computer. On boost the only changes are more fuel is required and the ignition timing needs to be retarded. I was going to use an adjustable rising rate FPR, and either a turbolink or MSD boost retarder for the timing. It wont exactly be a 'great' tune, but will make a lot more power than factory, and means I can keep my econometer and save a few thousand on an aftermarket ECU. I was worried about where to put the turbo, but there is tonnes of room once you remove the factory airbox. There are companys overseas who make turbo kits, personally I dont like any of them, but they all use the FPR method, one company reprograms the DME, but I dont know where to get that done here in NZ? 300 should be easy on the M30. One of the '535i turbo kit' companies claims 475hp but I personally think thats a little 'heads in the clouds' on a standard engine.