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The reverse idler is something we strike people having issues with, its due to the design of it. Check the rubber clutch line that runs down behind the cylinder head and down to the gearbox, we have seen these weep or swell causing the clutch not to fully disengage, which is fine for the forward gears because they run synchros but with reverse being just a gear being jammed between two others it becomes quite noticeable. New oil wouldn't hurt either. The next time the RPM gauge doesn't work try giving the top of the dash a bit of a smack, if it starts working again or the needle bounces up and back down then i'd suggest its a problem within the dash cluster itself. Behind the RPM gauge is a little black transistor unit that breaks one of its connections so becomes intermittent, happens to a few Toyota's. As for the lights and clock, id say it will need new bulbs and more than likely a new clock unit. The clock and radio run off the same fuse (DOME) normally a 15A so if it has power then the unit itself will be the issue. Hope this helps

Are they going to run these on weekends too? or mainly week nights

they aren't too bad on these normally at the front of the head on the intake side or on the thermostat housing area.Ya i ,manage the service department for the Hastings Toyota. They are a solid van we have some customers with a couple done over 400ks, don't see many in black though.

If you go with the 2.4 petrol then i would highly recommend having the cooling system flushed and new coolant put in. Also make sure the terminals on the engine coolant temp sensor are corrosion free, we see a few of them getting a bit of corrosion giving a false temp reading saying it's cooler than it really is, then they can crack the head in some cases. Also, i know it sounds stupid but, keep good wiper blades on the front if they get a bit worn it puts a bit too much load on the wiper bushes and they wear out and pop the arms off the motor. Not a major issue but it's the first thing they put in the van so to get at it everything else has to come out. let me know if you need any genuine parts, can offer trade grade pricing to members

I have a complete 89' 318i sedan most parts are there, engine sold but otherwise complete. Was bought just to swap a few panels for my coupe. Car still has a wof but a bit much effort to put back on the road If you want the whole car $400, or if you need something and you want to come and get it, you can have it.

If he has changed the ownership over you could get his name and address from VTNZ it costs like $4

It has sold

How much life do your 205/50 r15s have left in them?

Ya $200 is what they pay but he will get about $1000 when it's stripped and separated.

A friend of mine works at a scrap yard and told me he has an accident damaged 1993 e36 coupe 325i manual, black leather interior, complete car he only wants $1000 to cover the weight of the metal. Had a slight nose to tail so headlights, tail lights, front and rear bumpers and boot lid damaged Has no wheels so may need to supply if you want it roll able Front lower suspension arms and front seats are the only things missing Can get front seats to complete the interior if needed at slight extra cost. Engine still runs and gearbox selects all gears fine, I'm told it has a ZF gearbox not sure on the diff specs It will be squashed complete late this week. I would by it myself if I could justify it

|do you still have the manual conversion?

I have an e34 sump pan and oil pick up tube bought for a conversion but ended up buying an e34 m50 engine so dont need this sump anymore $200 ono

That sounds ideal, have you bought any of their cams in the past? Wondering if there race cam would be the same cost haha

hey mate whats the width and offset of the wheels?

As per title, the run about is starting to get very loud would like to buy a camshaft that isn't worn

Now also includes an e34 sump and oil pickup

i have a 93 e36 coupe that im wrecking that is still pretty complete but will be getting squashed on monday if you let me know exactly what your after ill see what i can do?

In a few weeks, the drive line is complete has the driveshaft, selector, clutch, crossmember everything is there, yes is the TU engine

I have a complete m50b25 engine conversion setup includes ecu and wiring, with a 5 speed manual trans. Was removed from a 1993 e36 325i coupe $1200ono Need it gone ASAP as I'm moving and don't have the space anymore, and I'd rather not put into storage. All offers considered 021332145

Clutch master cylinder?

The rear ashtray is intact and working fine I have both passenger door bump trims and the drivers door and guard trim but the passenger guard and drivers rear door ones are gone. In good condition could use a clean though let me know if your interested can take pictures if it helps

Car will be going to the scrap yard to be squashed next weekend if there is anything you want itll be going cheap

The passenger side has gone but the drivers side isnt bad has two small stone chips but otherwise its fine.

sorry i haven't driven the car so cant be sure of the condition, or the ratio sorry

i had a similar problem in my e38 740, heavy cornering caused a weird exhaust noise it turned out to be a partially collapsed muffler part came loose and moved under heavy cornering. was a good excuse to build a new exhaust system