Apex Effects

nolathane lube/grease? cant remember what kinda rubber grease or what ever it is. i just got a couple of packets of it floating around my tool box from going on a nolathane spree atm.

whats the reason for the welding on the head? are you not kinda blocking off the water galleries? are m30 got a similar fault?

GENIUS! mark thats wicked. keep it coming please. i check my dizzy cap regularly just to make sure there is no problem. e30 m3s are cool 1 series are gay. automatic 318ti's are gay

what happens when the wheel moves back in the arch? like aint it going to rub? just the pics of the conversion ya got E30-323ti(glen?) shows the wheel further back in the arch does it hit the guard? im just curious. always wanted to do the conversion since i saw your lil red beast just everyone in tauranga dont know shizl about bmw's

at a estimate for the picture, a wheel place would give it ago. but yea price would be a fair bit. i would estimate at least 380 zone which is the cost of a new wheel. have seen stuff like this come through work an people do pay it some times. more found when wheels are no longer available am the owner has become attached to the look of the wheel. but hey thats my 2cents worth

O MY GOSH MY HEAD IS GOING TO EXPLODE TO tooooooo much work, rays an bbs wheels for my eyes to handle i just want em all!!!!! always though it be fun to rock a set of weeks for every day of the week HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA i think im becoming a wheel whore lol

PS

Pjay u officaly have a wheel fetish but good on ya for choosing it to be te37s

thats looking sweeeett aazzzz marty cant wait to see it in action

updates mattzy?

I had a wheel alignment done yesterday and I'm not happy with it.

Firstly, it doesn't feel right at all. At 100KPH I've noticed:

I can't travel between telephone/power lines without the car veering left.

I still have a slight wobble in the steering (which could be caused by the roads here in Levin).

The steering wheel is sitting at about 350-355 degrees (remembering maths rotation is anti clockwise)

Just as I went to post this I read the sheet and a few of the primary angles aren't within the specifications. I also have 4mm setback on the front of the car and an 8mm set back on the back. Now I don't want to go off half cocked but if my wheel alignment hasn't been done properly I'd like to know.

Can any tyre guys / mechanics / knowledgeable people shed any light on this for me? Has my alignment been done properly or am I just being ridiculously paranoid about my baby?

well all angles aside from toe seem to be in spec(with in the manufacturers tolerances) to is a little to much on the negative side according to the specs on the sheet. dont worry about the sai angle its to do with the strut tower angle to the bottom of the tyre/road i think from memory. front camber on the right side needs to be adjusted a little better. an thrust angle would be better if it was 0'd. if un happy with how it feels an have the money to do so get another one from else wheres. as for the steering wheel he just didnt straighten it after he adjust everything. a good wheel alignment technician always straightens the steering wheel cos he knows no one like driving with a crooked wheel as it just feels weird. well thats my 2cents

452 are freakn good al customers we have are happy with them. as for the new f1 only one customer with a audi RS4 is running them at the moment havent heard any complains. falkens are a performance tyre so rubber is soft an does wear fast. if ya after more tyre life than performance try fulda excellero's German made tyre in my opinion performance of the conti's with out the price tag. work mate has the re001(adrenaline's) on his wrx an is proved them self well on the taupo track an on tauranga roads.

an yea supercats are cheap. they a long life tyre put out by bridgestone i think.

just one of there old pattens renamed

like Goodyear blue streaks

direzza's are more a dry tyre than wet to be honest

but they are coming up 5 years old

call your local tyre shop. we charge 20 a wheel to fit customers tyres 17s an under that is. 18s an up go up in 5 or 10 dollar increments

alpina!!!! stupid nz dollar i aint even got my new bm yet an i want the wheels. especial in a e30 offset mmmmm if i ever need mags i think ill come to u johno instead of my boss i never seen us with anything for e30s

And what about for my e34 540i?

Fr - 235/45R17 something called Lutons

Rear - 255/40/17 Nankang sport

eeee Lutons (flavour of the month Chinese crud) id look at upgrading them if ya can afford it dude. they cheap an very prone to impact fracturing an cracking in the sidewall from poor manufacturing. but if ya stuck with them 38 front 36 rear or 38 all around. well that's my recommendation change to suit your ride comfort level.

One things for sure, over inflating the tires or consistantly running high pressures places a lot of strain on the inner casing. Was shown recently how much of a hard life tires get and the effects of over heating and delamination of the inner casing. Was quite scary.

to higher pressure is never good for a tyre your quiet right, but pressure wise 36 to 40psi is safe running pressure for everyday use. depending on the compound of tyre an quality of its manufacturing is they key to what pressure to run along with size

no pressures are model of car dependent. its a general figure for that size tyre with the expected load that it can carry

Well, BMW figures say 323i E36 F30-R36, and we run factory recommended F31-R37 in our E46.

But perhaps this is wrong, Is 215/45R17 a factory E36 size? There's only 225/45R17 in the list?

Note, I am not a qualified tyre person. Just wondering why BMW used such different figures to what you're recommending. Perhaps German roads are much different to ours (this is assuming they use universal pressures for all countries).

Our roads are alot rougher than german roads. also they quoting that pressure for the factory tyre a Michelin or Continental which in comparison to most of the stuff available(Bridgestone, Dunlop, Firestone) over here are alot softer compound. so higher pressures usualy preferable in my experience.

endors3series your mag an turbo guy has recommended what he thinks is best. its just my experience in the industry say what i've said an thats what my boss has told me to do so(dont argue with the boss he's had bout the 20 year mark in experience as well) so each to there own all i know is it works for me an the customers i serve. on the subject of tyre surface contacting the road it does vary just how the tyres have worn how your suspension is set up as well to much camber etc

Hey Nick, got pretty much same wheels as yours. 38psi on rear, and 34psi on front is whats reccomended (thats for best performace, but also daily driving). Being rear-wheel drive, and taking into account you need sticky front tyres, it's always been noted to have a higher pressure at back, and lower at front. I definately wouldn't be pumping these specific tyers above 40psi unless you want to increase chances of punctures, sidewall damage and loose some steering feel. Good luck finding a good medium between speed and handling.

34 psi on low profiles? say hello to impact fractures an quickly worn out tyres dude. 36 would be sticky enough al our customer run that no problems high pressure decreases the chance of side wall damage actually as well not sure bout steering feel thing tho. being rear drive you would want more grip in the rear less likely to spin out from loosing traction. as suggested 38 or 36 for best results. an punctures happen anytime anywhere as well nothing going to stop a nail or screw jamming itself into your tyre dude, but lower treaded(worn out) tyres more prone to punctures as there is a greater surface area contacting the road

link worked for me. wow that looks fun an scary. such a expensive car on snow tyres running Nuremberg thats balls in the snow. black ice anyone?

^^ Great info mate. Appreciate it.

Haven't done anything about the pressures yet, but when I do I'll put about 38 in I think.

cheers always happy to help out. your running 215 45 17s aye?

try 38 front 36 rear? see how that goes

most low profile tyres (ie 215/45/17) have a average max pressure recommendation of 50psi but thats the manufacturers suggested limit for when seating the tyre when first fitted to the rim. for any tyre under a 50 profile run at least 36 for comfort an tyre sidewall support. lower the profile higher the pressure in most cases. suv's(X5 etc) run 40 all round no matter what profile size, reason is the weight of the vehicle is higher. ive found while running my e30 325 on 195/65/14(factory size) 36 in the front an 34 in the rear was good. the ride was firm to soft an had to be doing ridiculous speeds around corners(not that i suggest doing this) to get any tyre squeal(sign of tyres grip level is at its max). so after all that jabbering.

Recomended tyre pressure(as suggested by me a qualified tyre fitter )

215 45 17s 36 or 38psi

225 45 17s 36 or 38psi

235 45 17s 36 or 38psi

235 40 18s 38psi

215 35 18s 40psi

235 35 19s 38 or 40psi(anything below a 35 profile run 40)

235 25 20s 40psi

hi, wastepipe is around the 5 inches,if i do it again would plumb it down as there stacks of room under the

block,nevermind.

same turbo unit as the last project,t61 powermaster with a 68 exhaust.the 61 could go to a t70 as this is going to flow s**t load of air.same with the hot side,go to 81.but i'm biulding for great low to high mid range so it should have great responce.very possible it wil choke at the planned redline of 7k rpm but

for the three times a yr that it will see a track......

wastegate is 50mm,tial.

ecu was a left over from the last project (e28) ems 8860.

all going to plan,on the road late feb

marty your my kinda guy m30 turbo total genus hahaha. if i wasnt still f'n round with my nissan id be building my m30 e30 now.(but thats a lil down the track yet m30b35 or stroked.

no doubt you have already said but what was the story with the e28? what happened to it? but none the less good old kiwi know how going into a german people mover makes for some fun time i bet. would love to see her in action closest ive got to a 53? turbo is youtube videos lol

good to see someone else doing a 5 stud conversion. keep us posted on how it goes 255's on the rear will be bad ass.

if it was one of what you suggested you would experience big fuel cosumtion and a decent amout of smoke.

when you say 'running rough' is it like a costant missfire or more just generaly sick sounding?

have you checked things like fuel filter. timing. air leaks. spark plugs and the like?

Fuel filter is near new, but will be replacing,

and putting some injector cleaner through the lines

To be honest it sounds like it is mis-firing or bad timing at low rpms, and high rpms sounding sick

and has lost its kick it once had. Not sure how the timing would have been put off, since the engine transplant,

anway of resetting this to correct timing if so?

New spark plugs, Leads are fine

I am hoping, i havent done damage to the crank angle sensors in the gear box some how, and this ignition curve is been thrown way off, as i had had problems with crank angle sensors, and am getting sick and tired of them.

On your car, yes. E30 is too old. I am pretty sure it has some sort of batch fire - it might split them into pairs or threes (that's usual), but am pretty sure the computer only knows crank angle not cam position.

Ok did some more research (I want to know) - they are two groups, odd and even - page 34 of this 16mb doc:

http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e30/e30_89.pdf

I looked at the '84 diagram and 123 and 456 are grouped.

yeah i have the intake off, and it appears they are grouped in a (it would be hard to fit it any other way)

5,6 seem to be grouped 3,4 and 1,2 but not sure whether this means these are the batches they are fired in.

Not sure whether this is a deed end to my power loss in the e30.

hehe octane booster its a funny little thing. my old 89 325(Nz New) loved it. from Tauranga to wellington(hutt valley) on 3/4 of a tank of 98 plus a bottle of whines race octane booster. if label is close to correct i was running bout 102 octane(badness) o i forgot to mention i wasn't nanering it. minimum 130 on straights the occasional 190kph blitz(not that i say its a sensible thing to do on public roads) so 500kms hard driven an only using bout 45 liters of gas sounds good to me. i run minimum of 95 in my Nissan would prefer 98 just for the sake of it.

E30 for life! i love the style an the speed of the e46's an of course that mean performance inline six growl. but the e30 has all ways been my soft spot an im a classic car person these days(still own a 19 year old Nissan )