Jezza

Problem solved! Turns out after a closer inspection that there was a very fine hairline split in the solder joint of one of the transistor connections. Thanks very much for your help!

Back with some updates. I have taken the ecu out and have inspected it. No dry joints to be found. Have taken out both crank angle sensors (I can't understand why there are two?) and checked them across pins 1 and 2. Both have around 1000 ohms resistance which sounds fine. Is there anything else I can check or am I going to have to go through the process of elimination? Does anyone one know why there might be two crank angle sensors or maybe what the second sensor is actually for? Thanks

Oh OK, seems obvious now. Can I test the ground using a resistor/l.e.d or will the pulse be to fast? Is there any other way of testing it?

I've just had a play around and found that the coil does have 12V at the positive line in, so no power/relay issues. The coil itself has 0.8 ohms across the primary coil and 5600 ohms across the secondary coil which seems alright as well. I also checked the ground for the coil and found something a little suspect. It has around 6000 ohms resistance while the engine is stationary. Is that normal? I thought that was supposed to be a 'clean' ground with 0 ohms resistance until the ecu cuts it temporarily while the spark plug fires. Can anyone verify if the ground line off the coil is supposed to have any resistance? Cheers

Cheers for the input, I will have a stab at it when the weather fines up. Is the main relay found in the fuse box or does it have its own location?

Hey there My old 525ee has decided it doesn't want to work anymore and I'm hoping there is someone here who might be able to help me. The 12V feed to the coil on my motor has died and I'm not sure what could be responsible for it. I don't think it's a fuse as this problem has occurred twice now and the car kicked back into life last time. Does anyone have a good understanding of the m20 electrical system and would possibly know why it's lost power at the coil? Cheers

Yeah that's what I was thinking, would look out of place being that large. Mine is already lowered so I don't think I could pull it off. I don't think it'd be easy finding the 17's as they must be sort after, rare, and no one calls them by there proper name. Thanks for every ones input. I might just end up going for something like the wheels in brents sig.

Hey guys Looking to find out whether these wheels would fit my E28 5 series. It's hard enough to find a set on trademe as no one calls them by their actual name. Here are the wheels on trademe: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=247577939 So does anyone know whether they would fit? Thanks

Hey guys Been hunting around for some calipers from a 735i, after reading a post on here and some other info off google. From what I have read I need the 'carriers'/brackets as well. I managed to find a set but the person selling them says the brackets are part of the strut assembly Do I need the e32 brackets or will the calipers bolt straight onto the existing e28 brackets? If I do need the e32 brackets how do I go about changing them? He told me they were "sealed". Thanks for any help EDIT: I've been told these calipers just literally bolt on with the correct rotors. Thanks anyhow.

Yeah, not sure how hard it is to get low comp pistons though.

Cheers Kym I have a m20b27 which will oneday turn into stroker motor instead of a eta. Is there any way you could forward that wiring information? Jeremy

I hear there are some issues around the sensors though? I wouldn't be able to use a getrag 240 from what I understand.

Hey all Recently acquired a E28 and after getting it running I'd like to know how much hassle would be involved in converting it to manual? Asides from the gearbox and pedal cluster, what else if required specifically? Can I use any manual box? Cheers

Haha, hope it helps. Sorry I made an error with the S4/S5 gearbox, you WILL need a B2600 bellhousing.

Think I can clear this one up for you guys. If you are using a complete evo 7 bolt motor (all evo motors are 7bolt), you won't be able to make it RWD. This is because starion gearboxes, s4/s5 gearboxes and b2600 gearboxes will only bolt up to WIDEBLOCKS which only came on the earlier models of 4g63's (SOHC RWD variants). What you'll need: -A Starion or turbo Sapporo or turbo RWD Sigma bottom end (As these are the only motors with piston oil squirters and RWD mounts). Turbo cordia's came with narrow blocks. -VR4 head or Evo head. (VR4 heads have ridiculously large ports so kiss your bottom end torque good bye, Evo heads are better for day to day driving.) -Starion flywheel (These only bolt to 6 bolt cranks) -VR4 or Evo pistons to suit the valves in the twin cam head. Starion conrods have 21mm semi floating gudgeon pins, I think VR4 pistons may be 21mm but Evo pistons are definitely 22mm so the rods will need to be bored out. - As Incary said, either a Starion gearbox (which will hold around 300 - 350whp max), or a stronger s4/s5 gearbox or a b2600 gearbox will bolt to the wideblock. The difference between the 2600 box and the s4/s5 box is the ratio's and the shifter positions. You'd be better off hunting down a mazda box as they are easier to find and have cases which split open as opposed to internals which slide out. The starion box has bearings in it which even some workshops will struggle to press out. -You'll need to swap the throttle body onto the opposite end of the plenum or use a evo 4 manifold and weld up the extra injector ports. -You can use the starion timing plate or the twin cam timing plate. If you use the starion timing plate, you will need to covert the timing gears over to suit the twin cam belt. The difference between these two cover is where the waterpump outlet faces. You'll also need to be conscious of the alternator as it sits fairly close to the output of the waterpump. -You will also need to re route the waterline off the back of the head to run to the top pipe of the radiator, an additional line will need to run from this outlet to the waterpump to act as a bypass. If you plan on running high boost it'll pay to get some forged pistons. The standard ones will support around 300 - 330whp with a standard TD05H Big 16G turbo @ 20psi. You may also need to high mount the turbo but that depends on if the standard low mount manifold/turbo clears your steering setup. Don't forget your aftermarket computer with install and tune. Around 3k all up. You'll also need a new fuel pump which can support the extra psi. Evo yellow top injectors are 510cc and will around support 20psi (@520cfm). Later model Evo injectors are 560cc (Purple tops I think) but cost twice as much for some reason :S. There is more to it than meets the eye, you'll come across other minor inconveniences but hey thats part of the fun. I have a lot of the parts you need so flick me a pm with an offer if your after something.