CamB

10 hours ago, kiwi535 said:

i wonder how old they are?

They are most likely fairly new - from one of these a couple of years ago (this is the first time I have seen them listed with a tyre size of 225/95R16 - they used to be 750R16):

https://www.toyota.co.nz/our-range/land-cruiser/land-cruiser-70/specifications/single-cab-chassis/

These might fit the bill ... although wrong end of the country. They've probably come off a 76 series Toyota. They'd be ... ok ... on the road.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/tyres/auction-1420398106.htm

I've looked at this is the past and it's hard to find a 7.50r16 equivalent (I didn't focus on smaller) that is ok on a narrow LR rim. I have some Defender base model ones (a Michelin) that I bought on TM for $1100 new on 5.5" steel wheels - a dealer had taken them off, but it's not exactly common to see them for sale. Drives amazingly onroad compared to the mud tyres it came with.

What's the Getrag 4spd out of? M30?

If you put up a pic I can try take an equivalent one of a passenger side, to compare.

My 2002 had nil oil pressure once (mechanical gauge). It was on the start line of my 4th and last ever Targa stage.

The oil pump nut had chosen that moment to come undone. Expensive...

So you've done the right thing by welding and odd there is no pressure at all.

(Edit - have re-read and realised that I didn't really make a point. My point is that I saw a genuine nil pressure and it was really bad. Investigate carefully!!)

First suggestion would be to avoid paying interest, ever, at those rates.

If you don't mind the hassle of churning from account to account, there were recently deals waiving fees for a year on the new platinum airpoints cards. That's best of both worlds.

I think the telling point is that few here would be getting worked up if you could call up plates.co.nz and get a Euro plate for $50-60 (even $100). Not sure there are many people who believe they should be able to have whatever they want (any colour or size).

So basically the $400 is the problem.

I don't like them on balance. Rust, headroom, weight up high. But nice to have sometimes.

Probably easier to get higher numbers from the Tooter engine though - have seen 1600+hp and planetary levels of torque on other websites.

I think it might go like this (based solely on what you see around the internets):

- 300rwkw - ish. Probably easiest for a basically stock 2JZ

- the next 100kw - can see the s54 coming even

- some point where ridiculous hp levels have already been passed - the 2JZ is much better supported so it would be cheaper* / easier / well trodden

* a very relative term at that point.

What I really meant was that once you go past bolt-ons for a turbo engine and start changing cams and pistons / rods, it probably doesn't cost a lot more to stick with a BMW engine.

My 2c would be to make sure you are comparing like for like for $. What I mean is:

- buy 2JZ

- swap 2JZ in

- modify 2JZ to rev (probably only need cams) to make it comparable to an s54, plus whatever else one customarily does to a 2JZ

- I guess you can sell s54 at that point, recovering a decent amount of cost

vs

- modify S54 for boost (at very least lower the compression a bit)

Because the way I look at it, for either engine you will need a roughly equivalent cost for:

- custom exhaust manifold (maybe a bit more room on the 2JZ) and exhaust, intercooler and intake plumbing

- big turbo (I assume you aren't sticking with standard for the 2JZ)

- dealing with tuning

I guess I am trying to say the 2JZ may not be that much cheaper.

(edit - beaten to it by 2 mins but essentially looks like you've had 2 similar answers).

I LOL'd when I saw that listing. No stone unturned in talking it up!

Pricing and condition suits an enthusiast, so (hopefully) it's pretty safe. I am not criticising the price by the way - would cost a lot of money to find one and bring it up to that condition.

To stop hogging all the m30 bellhousing 260s in the world!

The easiest thing to do is find the right gearbox for the car (if it runs ok). That should also be the cheapest (although may not seem that way with the upfront cost/hassle of buying the right box). But it has the highest probability of going without spending up on lots of random stuff you don't yet know you are missing.

Next easiest would be finding the right box and putting your b25 in. This involves more electrics I suppose but the exhaust fits.

M30 would be fastest, but if I remember your other thread not the M30 you have. Doesn't that engine have problems? Would need a cert.

Anyway - that's my 2c. Get it going, drive it and work out what you want.

Mine didn't have a wing mirror on the passenger side.

I reckon it looks pretty nice / complete other than the missing chrome trim (belt line, window seal, rain gutter) which is a bit of a downer if the goal is original looking and some of it is hard / impossible to find, but it doesn't look bad without it. As a side note I am still debating on mine whether to have nothing or have the poor man's version, which is stick on chrome profile. Looks good from a distance, which is ok on a race car....

It's good that there are replacement panels for rusty bits, but its still really important to check for further rust as they love to rust... (eg I'd have a careful look at the underside of the leading edge of the bonnet). I can't get my head around prices on them these days as a 2002 needing a cosmetic restoration should be pretty cheap ... and I am not sure $10k+ is cheap. But the value on them has really come up.

Wheels are easy enough to change. Sidedrafts and a 292 cam are a good bonus, although I'd put a hose on the valve cover breather, haha.

Pretty cool - hadn't seen that yet.

He's developed roller rockers for them, and cam profiles to take advantage of it.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/133673-new-cnc-machined-roller-rockerarm-for-m10m30-by-dynotechse/?view=findpost&p=960883

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/163327-roller-rockers-for-m10/#entry1031813

I wouldn't want me to stand in the way of someone who wants it / needs it / is more proactive than I, etc

No rush at all

"Manual conversion $1000"

<sigh> Why must you be in Wellington...

I've had a proper google now and can see what you are trying to do. <Like>

If you can find someone who has a known working solution, might be a good idea to go with it. Unless you can DIY the machining (which based on how you asked I assume no), then I suspect the cost of getting it done locally on a custom basis would quickly add up...

Anything ready made available? Eg 3rd last post here:

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1428628-Individual-Throttle-Bodies-on-M62/page2

Awesome work - you should be proud of yourself!

Were the two action shots both "never waste a crowd" moments?

I susect there won't be an enormous amount of interest - I'm just making the offer in case anyone has been thinking they want their own custom display with data and/or monitoring not currently available directly from the Link products. I'm certainly not trying to make a commercial product to compete with theirs...

Registering some interest here. I have a G4 Storm that's pre-can bus (can be upgraded apparently) although not sure that would make a difference for serial. If one wanted to customise the display then it would presumably require altering the code? Unfortunately that's a zero skill area for me... although it seems a few of you guys have the skills, so am jealous.

For example, if it was on my car instead of:

time, date, RPM, IAT, ECT, MAP, TPS and Battery Voltage

I'd be interested in the following for my needs:

ECT, MAP, Battery Voltage, oil pressure, lambda, boost target (its adjustable by knob) if that's a logged parameter. And something related to warnings (could it scroll through warnings if there were multiple?)

And if I had more inputs to the ECU (in other words if I got a new ECU), I would be interested in fuel pressure, oil temp, coolant system pressure, EGT, blah blah. Basically the main value to me in something like this is in avoiding buying and mounting a bunch of gauges.

Either way, I am interested to learn more if you were to add info to the thread.

Hopefully this doesn't end up in the quick rant thread...

But bought what I assume is a getrag 265 (e24 5 speed with removable Bell housing, what else could it be?)for stupidly cheap. And I am aware that they cost a lot to rebuild and that the bell housing, shift linkage and cross member will be a pita to find.

I saw you bought that. If you find a bellhousing you are onto a winner I reckon. I wasn't brave enough / don't have enough time / don't actually need it.

I didnt want to get involved in the oil argument, again, but my S50B30 was very happy on 5W40 Valvoline Synpower.

Further to that, not sure it needs the 10W60 either (unless its being subject to track-style abuse):

http://forums.m3cutters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=49946&page=4

Rubix - Out of curiosity, do you have the owners handbook and what does it say?

When I had my s50b32 I changed to 10W40 or 50 (can't remember) on a reputable mechanic's recommendation. My general oil temps were lower and the vanos was quieter.

No idea. But you know the man who will know.

Had another look - having taken off the silencing ring on the 50mm inducer compressor housing I have, I can see machining out to 54mm (or possibly even 56mm) is looking pretty feasible. In the 2nd pic the tape is 57mm in diameter.

So a pretty niche question, but here goes.

I have an excavator-spec HX35. The good is that it has a non-WG 12cm divided turbine housing. The bad is that it has a 46/83mm (thats 30 trim...) coldside. I have aspirations of more power than that (M10B20, built accordingly).

The compressor wheel looks like this: