CamB

I'm not sure I'd call that cheap.

Either way, check it (and any 2002 - not criticising it) very very carefully for rust. They love to rust.

If anyone buys it, I can probably be convinced to cough up my tachometer (I have replaced it with a race-spec one) coz everyone knows revs > time. And a tii engine, complete.

Might be tough to get a turbo on anything for only $3k unless you can make everything that's make-able. Turbo, manifold, exhaust, ECU, wideband, other sensors, injectors, intercooler, piping, blowoff valve, clutch, etc. it adds up.

Do you mean adjusting the end links to avoid preload? Or changing the holes to ones further out on the bar? Or both?

I have never had the luxury of avoiding preload (ie never had adjustable links), and have always had preload so had to have the wheels off the ground to have any chance of getting the links on.

Issue price $1.55, plus incentives, so up 30c.

Meridian was $1.50 ($1.00 plus 50c) and now $2.21. Mighty River was $2.50, now $2.77. All three are focusing on maximising cash generation and minimising expansion capex in a way they didn't under 100% govt ownership. Usually people argue they were sold too cheap...

Air NZ also well up on what the govt sold its shares at, but its an airline and is getting unforeseen wins on fuel cost now.

Solid Energy ... still 100% govt owned. Sort of.

AND................ you could put that money away each week for when it really shits it self ... that is what I would do.... good luck !

Fixed. Now everyone play nice.

Yeah looks like we are on the same page, although I think the key is having the discipline to use the money wisely (ie actually reducing a mortgage or other debt, which I am sure you do), plus if one can genuinely get employer contributions (or would genuinely miss out on them if not in KiwiSaver) then KiwiSaver is a good deal.

Plus if anyone is intending to make a financial (as in bank deposit / other interest bearing / sharemarket) investment for the long term, KiwiSaver with matching is tough to beat on paper. I wouldn't want anyone to read this thread an form a different view.

**note i am not qualfied advisor

However, one of the few brackets it doesnt benefit is the one I am in, 40 years off retirement but already own my home.

In my case, it will hold me back from where I want to be in 10-20 years time if it came in now.

In any case, Kiwis should have the freedom to continue building thier own brighter future, not rely on some fat cat i dont know.

Make Kiwisaver comulsory and in effect you have increased taxes and super, with a bunch of investment houses clipping the ticket

I am not in KiwiSaver for 2 reasons. The first is quite specific (the terms of my employment mean I would effectively pay the employer matching), but the second is because as I have a mortgage my view is any cash I pay down the mortgage with is like a AAA rated 5-6% cash (post tax) return. AAA rated as I definitely owe the bank, and post tax return as I pay the interest out of post tax earnings. I can't beat that as a risk free return, but if I had employer matching KiwiSaver would be better. I will either join KiwiSaver or invest in some sort of fund(s) once the mortgage is done (I need to think through the maths on govt contributions vs flexibility outside KiwiSaver given I pay my own employer contribution). The fat cats know what they are doing and are quite well regulated now. It's worth doing research on returns for different funds, and also understanding the difference in risk and return profile and what is appropriate for people of different ages.

But I disagree on "increasing tax and super". The point of KiwiSaver is to build a defined benefit and reduce the future (unmanageable) tax burden. Super is going to go down eventually (or the age get pushed out). For those who can afford to be in KiwiSaver, it's a good deal. Assuming you get the govt contribution and employer matching very few people are good enough at investing or making some other investment decision (eg investment properties) to beat a (risk free) doubling of their investment in the first year. Risk free is the key.

A bit rambly sorry, but hopefully the point makes sense.

Lots of subjective claptrap and rubbish arguments being bandied around on here .

...

Your taxes pay for public health, education, Transport networks and the ACC you rort - if fewer people were rorting the tax system average taxes could e reduced?

I agree with the last point. On an international basis, I reckon we actually look pretty good on a tax (quite low) vs outcomes (quite good) basis.

If the first point in any way refers to me, I wasn't saying private individuals shouldn't pay a clearance fee (or GST or duty), I am asking why the clearance fee is so high compared to everywhere else. For a government which is doing a pretty reasonable job in pursuing efficiency, customs clearance charges look to be out of line to elsewhere and if we are looking to match other countries' import thresholds then we should match their fees too. Looking at other countries, $10 looks reasonable. $50 does not.

True, not much has duty on it (randomly shoes do - important to protect that local industry...).

Anyway since then this - as you say, an initial focus on digital content.

http://www.stuff.co.nz/national/politics/71203435/buyers-set-to-pay-gst-on-overseas-online-services-by-christmas

To bump this up, I see the following article. Not ideal - I want to buy some parts:

http://www.nzherald.co.nz/business/news/article.cfm?c_id=3&objectid=11498552

It piqued my interest though. As I think I said earlier in the thread, I don't actually mind paying GST, I want to avoid the fee:

Once the threshold of $60 of duty and/or GST payable is reached, then an import entry transaction fee (IETF) of NZ$49.24 (GST inclusive) is also payable. This includes the Ministry for Primary Industries biosecurity system entry levy of $17.63 (GST inclusive).

So how does the fee work elsewhere?

Canada: - $9.95

UK: - looks to be ... nothing

USA: - looks to be $2, $6 or $9

Now that's 5 mins internet research so I could be completely wrong, but it makes our system look ridiculous.

perfect for boooooooost

This one is perfect for booooooost - the steering column is on the good side:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=835013543

Assuming you'd get it for $10k and it goes fine I am actually tempted. The interior doesn't say "300k" so it might be highway miles. Although English car - check for rust...

Watching with interest - I have 4 children aged 6 and under and they have no respect, don't help out around the house and not only use the washing machine whenever they want ... but they expect my wife or I to do it.

They also don't pay their rent or share of utilities, and expect food to be included.

Shouldn't need a cert if it uses all unmodified factory parts.

Call your insurance company?

Well. There is the 90 and 200 series Land Cruisers, well, any Land Cruisers.. only they don't leak.

Can't get one of them in manual and 7 seats and a reasonable price (if at all). Although it'd be a better car. A huge, bigger car (those 200 series are massive and expensive).

I did drive a 90 series once (as a rental, so did a few km) - was pretty good. The 6th and 7th seats aren't much to speak of (I have 4 kids). And its not as much fun as my car. Plus it probably fits in any carpark, which sounds way too convenient.

Like I said. Not safe ... yet I pay $68.

Mine has a Ford Transit engine (they all have since about 2008), so its underpowered and semi-reliable rather than underpowered and unreliable.

Plus looking a 6-7 year old ones for sale (and guessing what they'll sell for, not asking price), I am on track for sub 10% depreciation from new. Find me another vehicle that does that, seats 7, manual gearbox and leaks in heavy rain.

As for Defenders... They are safe because they move so slow.

Very true. Yet it still feels fast and slightly dangerous. Because I am on safari. In Mt Eden.

It's not all bad. Sometimes you win.

The levies for a 2011 LR Defender are $123, despite it being by my assessment very unsafe (as ACC would expect to define it). So that's a win...

... I have a newer one than that (which is identically unsafe), and hence is uncategorised, ie the safest category. I've paid $68.

To put that in context, my list of safety items are:

- ABS (and I guess traction control, being the inverse of ABS)

My missing safety items are:

- airbags (yes, I managed to buy a vehicle in 2014 with no airbags)

- stability control (they only put that in for the final production year...)

- passenger protection generally

- pedestrian protection generally

I guess the good news is that looking at the banding criteria, it seems they are objectively safe ...

For light passenger vehicles with a vehicle year before December 2011, the levy band is based on real crash data.

Went e61 about 7 years ago, machine has done 1000s of cups

"CAUTION HOT" - never a truer word spoken than that. Every few months I am not concentrating and get a reminder from mine in the form of a shiny piece of skin on my knucke(s) for a couple of week.

And if it was causing confusion, 911T doesn't mean "turbo". It's base spec.

Nigel - I don't mean to be rude calling it base spec by the way - I have one (a not very roadworthy 69T). I think you've made an awesome choice.

I agree with Ron on something with an e61 head (or the Rancilio by reputation but haven't used one) and a decent $$$ grinder. Both will last forever if appropriately serviced. Then you just need to practice...

If you just want high quality black coffee and don't want to spend much

- a burr grinder (manual about $60 but hard work, or I used to have a sunbeam one bought for about $100 on sale)

- an Aeropress for $50ish

- light roast single origin coffee roasted with pour-over or Aeropress in mind.

Good work. Are you going to fix up the external, errrr, anomalies? Won't cost much and you'll improve looks and value.

You should try downloading the software and having a play. That's totally free and you can learn a fair bit about how the ECU works.

In fact, that's all I have done (so take anything I say with a grain of salt). That and connect a rotary switch and verify I can run through boost targets.

I just had a look at the Haltech Elite for the first time. I eyeballed the stats vs what I've been focused on (Link) and other than having CAN which can talk to the car they look really similar. And the Haltech is $$$ compared to the Link (G4+ Xtreme), especially with the looms ... but ...

... I get the feeling my view reflects my limited knowledge. I guess what I am saying is that choosing an ECU for a complicated engine must be complicated. And that's before you even try and tune it. Arriving at an optimal tune for variable cams must take ages.

Where did the injectors end up on that one?