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Ultrarandom

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Posts posted by Ultrarandom


  1. But I can modify my own copy of the book if I want? It's not going to be redistributed in that state. Same goes for any computer I buy, modified every single one, sure it voids warranty if you're still in that period but that's it.
    I'd be curious to see something like this go through the courts.

    • Like 1

  2. Just started up with Youi.
    They've given me the best quote on my E30 out of everyone so far. Being under 25 I was getting quoted 1k p.a everywhere (including NAC who I was already with for my motorbike).
    Been quoted 600 p.a with youi for full comprehensive. Also been quoted $10 less per month for my motorbike and they actually cover gear as well. Heard of people with good and bad experiences with youi. Almost seems like it depends who you get. Was on the phone with them for about an hour and the guy actually seemed like a bike/car enthusiast (also putting my dad as a listed driver bought my insurance down $6 per month)


  3. The way i always bleed if i dont have a compressed air source\fittings available:

    Remove the the expansion tank cap, draw breath & put your mouth over it and blow whilst having a finger blocking the expansion tank vent hose and the other hand opening the bleed screw, its like bleeding brakes as you need to close the screw before releasing pressure and repeat. It usually takes me <30s to get all the air out then i will recheck once its a operating temp just to be sure.

    So much easier and faster than open\close bleed screw, tilt car etc method and it works well on E30's due to the expansion tank location

    That's actually a real good way haha, don't know why I didn't think of it. I used a similar method on my old Skyline too.


  4. An additional update to how I'm going with this. After reading through the bentley I got an idea and with the engine still dead cold I've been holding the expansion tank up higher than the bleed screw with the cap off and opening it up, this has been getting a decent amount of air bubbles out and seems to be working, will do more work on this in the morning but hopefully will have it sorted tomorrow =D (today now)

    EDIT: After doing this and running it through after 5 minutes of idling after reaching operating temp this was the site I had
    6y1sgp.jpg
    Still a bit of air in there which Im slowly working out but progress is progress =D.
    Letting it cool down now and coming back to it again to check the expansion tank once it's cold.


  5. Forgot to mention I did already have the heater going.
    It hadn't so much blown the head gasket as it just had a slow seep out from the coolant out the side so I took the head off, new head gasket, got the head machined and properly tested, also got the valves lapped and a proper clean up, replaced timing belt and all.
    Only thing I didn't do was the water pump, radiator was flowing easy when I was flushing it and the water pump had been working fine beforehand, never had any overheating problems even with the leak in the head gasket. Is also sort of hopeful thinking that it'd be neither of those.
    Has an electric fan on a switch which was also keeping it at temperature beforehand.

    Will give another go tomorrow but have a try on the flat again since some people say that they're somewhat designed to be bled that way.

    Problem is if I leave it running for a minute or 2 the engine will completely cook, I feel bad enough having it get as high as it does.


  6. After recently doing the head gasket I've been trying to bleed the cooling system as the lower radiator hose stays cold while the engine starts creeping towards the 3/4 mark on the gauge.
    So far what I have done is I've got the front end jacked up and have started the engine and had coolant come out the bleed hole as normal, then once (I'm guessing) the thermostat opens up the temperature of the coolant picks up drastically and splutters out, then if I close off the bleed screw for any period of time and re open it only steam comes out.
    Any suggestions as to what this could be before I just book it into SD European?
    Also the temperature gauge comes back down when I accelerate (when taking it for a quick run yesterday down the street and back).

    EDIT:
    To add, it's a motronic M20B25 so bleeding from the screw on top of the thermostat.


  7. I've always been told to do the opposite and specifically earth the radiator to prevent electrolysis because the water running through builds up static charge which then doesn't get relieved unless it is earthed.
    Had this done in my old Skyline and had no problems with it, not sure if BMWs are different but I also know this is the case with Fords (was people from Ford dealerships who told me about it).


  8. Everyone should feel my pain. I'm trying to sell an R33 Turbo (Ultrarandom's old one), and I've had to deal with endless amounts of meataxes. It comes with the territory though. Chances are, if they say they're really keen, they offer money, ask a lot of questions.... it won't amount to anything.

    Funnily enough selling my last purple E30 was an absolute dream. The guy gave me $4500 before picking up the car, and even wanted to pay the rest until I told him it wasn't a good idea!

    I had the exact same thing when trying to sell it.

    Got heaps of lowball offers, offers for swaps on high K thrashed pieces.

    Only decent ones I got offered swaps for in that time were an Evo IV with BCs and such then the E30 I swapped with you.

    Got offered for a real nice sounding S14, had everything you'd want, then he sent me pics. Most ugly paintjob in the world with the worst bodykit and bonnet I've ever seen.

    Also had a guy try and swap the Mrs Audi for "An Xbox 360, 6 tinnys and 2k cash". We said yes for fun to see what his response was and suddenly they didn't remember who we were hahaha

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