Federation12

Morning! I still float around on these forums, didn't ever get a notification that this thread was still going until I saw Cody's PM. The car has been sold now sadly, but I did get to the bottom of these issues before it was sold. I still keep my eye out for a 135i at the right price, and I'm hoping that the E39 ute project gets resurrected at some stage The main things that fixed it were a PCV system overhaul (i accidentally bought the cold weather one but it fit up fine), and new ignition coils. I did both of these at the same time so I couldn't say which one sorted the issue. At the age of these cars now, if both of these haven't been done then they're a worthwhile task.

I was told mine was the most expensive because the whole key needed to be replaced, not just the transponder(?). Early E46 keys will still start the car regardless of the door controls still working. Sorry haven't done a whole lot of research on keys, more something I like to leave to the professionals. The place is around the back of 930, there's a garage and a big 26 above the door. If you go there, you'll find it easy. It's not worth ringing, but after seeing some of the stuff he was working on (VW's that even VW NZ couldn't get to start), I have no doubt he'll be able to do whatever you need. Don't want to disclose the price as I assume every job is slightly different but as I said earlier, I didn't have to pay the $350 I expected to pay. Cheers.

Digging up a slightly old thread to vouch for Express Keys. Finally got mine sorted after having my stereo taken last week. E46 Key sorted out today in 40 minutes for less than $350. Awesome guys there, I can see why Glenn said to just show up - the place is packed with cars.

Hi team, Any other options for purchasing a drivers side rear window regulator locally? Other than trademe? I did order one from Ebay but since taking the old one out I've realised they've sent me a regulator for the front. With the time it's gonna take to refund/replace that one (from the UK) I thought I may as well look at local options too. Cheers

I saw a pretty young bloke in this at washworld just a week or two back. Must've hit something pretty hard!

Hi team, wondering if anyone can help me with the codes I've been chasing recently. E46 320i 6 Cylinder Automatic. Build date is 09/2000. I'm probably gonna use this thread until I can sort out the problem. Recently I've been experiencing a rough idle, sluggish takeoffs and a loss of power low down. Posted about it here before! I scanned the car, and got P0369 Camshaft Position Sensor Intermittent Bank B, which is the exhaust side. Running a bit rough but still getting me to and from Uni I bought the part, planning on fixing it next week. Driving home yesterday I got a shudder when accelerating, and the engine light came on. Quite a large loss of power at this stage, drove it the 10 minutes home and scanned the car. Installed the Cam Position Sensor, started the car, cleared the codes and took it for a quick drive, it drove better but not perfect. Scanning the car after the drive showed no codes immediately, I thought it would be fine for the interim. So to the current problem, I started it this morning, by the time I plugged my phone in the car was running rough, the engine light was back on and finally it stalled. Scanned the car and got P1353 - Misfire Cylinder 6 With Fuel Cut-Off. After a quick google, I restarted the car in the garage with the MAF removed, no stalls and it idled just fine. Attempted to isolate the issue by swapping the coils, swapped 5 & 6, started and it ran much better, no stalls, a little rough but the best it's been in the past two weeks. I scanned the car and the code followed the coil - P1350 Misfire During Start Cylinder 5. The problem with this is I got quite a few codes with that: P1348 Misfire During Start Cylinder 4 P1346 Misfire During Start Cylinder 3 P1085 Fuel Control Mixture Lean Bank 2 Sensor 1 P1083 Fuel Control Mixture Lean Bank 1 Sensor 1 I'm wondering where to go from here. Would swapping the coils trip sensors for cylinder 3 and 4 too? Vacuum leak seems to be a common problem too.

330i Msport, now if only I weren't a poor student.. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-886610980.htm

Seems like they should fit no worries, do you have standard, motorsport or aftermarket suspension? That could be the deciding factor. Do hyper do test fits? Might be worth taking it down there for a test fit before you buy them!

Thanks for the detailed response! Seems like the best course of action by a long shot. Will do some investegating and post back, although Ray's deal is looking pretty promising! Cheers! Edit: I did think the rack leaking was a bit of a long shot from what I've seen of the rack. If I get the day to myself tomorrow I'll have some more info

Hey team, Had two new front tyres put on this morning by the local tyre place, got a call about an hour later telling me the steering rack is leaking pretty heavily and one of the ball joints has a lot of play. Quoted $1000 to fix both, but I thought I'd have a crack myself. It's mainly the steering rack I need to pick your brains about. 1. Is it okay to buy a second hand rack? The new ones are way too expensive, also reconditioning, is that worth it? 2. If buying second hand is the go - where's the best place? Bmworld? Hellbm? 3. A little bit of research brings up people wanting to swap in z3 racks or even motorsport racks. Is it worth it? It's a 320 sedan but if it benefits it enough I could be keen. 4. I'm planning on replacing all the hoses and reservoir, is there anything else worth doing while its off? In regards to a second hand rack is there anything I should be doing to that? 5. Finally how easy are these to install? I haven't been under the car to have a look yet but considering the lack of guides I'm assuming it's either near impossible or incredibly easy. Thanks in advance for any answers I get, definitely something I only want to do the once and I definitely want to get it right. Edit: Sorry mods Just noticed this is probably better in the steering forum, move if needed

Awesome thanks for the feedback guys! Is there anywhere you recommend to get it scanned? I've got tomorrow off and willing to travel, are the scans relatively costly? Auckland area. Just as a quick update I couldnt start it and drive immediately today, however I did start it and let it idle, no noises whatsoever so it definitely is tempremental!

First thanks so much for the detailed response! It does sound mechanical, although now that you mention it, it could definitely be a muffled pop too! I'll have a look over the intake boot today. Yeah that's probably the next step, is get it plugged in. Is there a good place in Auckland that people recommend? North of the bridge is even better. 10 seconds is probably more accurate, it holds the revs higher when it first starts and as the idle drops the noise starts. Not so much, there is a bit of stutter through first gear, although it truely is minor and there's no noises coming from the engine as soon as you give it revs. I'll actually go out and test this in just a second. That's actually what I've been doing recently to avoid it happen, if I hold it anywhere above 1000 in park, the noise doesn't happen. Yeah this seems to be the problem I've ran into so far, is that the noise isn't easily identifiable and the problems can be so broad that it's hard to come up with a definitive answer. Interesting to know about the exhaust timing though! I think I would be more likely to hear an exhaust leak, right?

I swear it's one thing after another with this car, I love fixing it, but this ones got me stumped! I put it up on the bmw facebook discussion page but I got varied responses, so just looking for a second opinion here. E46 320i M54b22, done just over 160,000 k's, auto gearbox. On cold starts, a knocking noise can be heard from the engine, towards the back. It's irregular and the revs drop as you can see in the videos, however to this date it hasn't stalled, and after driving it (or even turning it off and back on) the problem essentially disappears. Happens in park, affects the speed of reverse when not using the gas pedal, and seems to stutter slightly moving off after first start (only minor though) I'm just stumped as to where to start, I've searched google, only finding results relating to the 4cyl engines. Nobody seems to have quite the same irregular knock that I have. I worry it could be from replacing the Oil Filter housing gasket, as I could have easily bumped something while cleaning up down there. No warning lights like other people have, and no knocks or noises at any speed once she gets going! I'm really hoping it'll be easily identifiable through the videos, as you can imagine I want to get this fixed sooner rather than later! I'm quite happy to go through the list and start replacing tensioners and hoses but if I can get straight to the problem that would be much better! Thanks in advance for any response. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYGc11vIU1E'>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYGc11vIU1E https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dy2C883RaCQ'>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dy2C883RaCQ

Hey Kyle, owner of the same car here! No cert necessary, however it could fail the wof for a noisey exhaust (the limits are a bit down the page), which I'm sure a straight pipe might cause you a bit of trouble with! There are some kits out there, check E46fanatics for people who have bought decent setups but they do run you quite a bit of cash, especially trying to get them over here etc etc Personally I've kept mine standard, between the automatic gearbox and its gutless moments I think the rasp can on the end of it does just fine for those moments when I want to be heard, but if you do go ahead and do it, I'm keen to see how it works out!

On a bench at work. On Christmas day. ...And it's already driving me insane. The buttons don't work now and I'm unlocking the doors from the inside. It's an early model E46 so it has the round bottom key, not the diamond shape - Is there options as to where to find and replace this or is it a dealer specific kind of issue? Cheers