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bradi65

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Posts posted by bradi65

  3. Posted · Report reply

    It's a hydraulic clutch. If you don't have resistance on the clutch pedal then either the master or slave cylinder is to blame.

    Master cylinder you will see behind the clutch pedal. Slave is on the passenger side of the gearbox.

    any ideas where to get one online ? I had a look on trademe but cant seem to find much.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Glenn's advice to me with a similar problem was to put it in gear and turn it over briefly on the starter motor. Obviously make sure the path in front is clear. Assuming the clutch is stuck and not another problem.

    I got it started in 1st gear and can drive it around but theres no clutch and no spring to the pedal, could it be the clutch cable ?

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Hey guys hope I've posted this in the right place.

    Just brought a new e30 325i,

    the clutch seems to be in active the guy I brought it off said that it was just stuck and needs to be freed up,

    Any ideas on how to get it unstuck ?

    Could this be the slave cylinder ?

    Any help would be very appreciated !

    Cheers !!

  7. Posted · Report reply

    the e30 is a 318i manual i have about $120 for one at the moment, im pretty limited on funds, ill see if i can find out how much it will cost to ship. do you no a rough weight.?

    also will this fit my e30 ? i dont know alot about diffs and im not worryed about how it runs just need one to get it moving for now.

    thanks for your help !

  12. Posted · Report reply

    i would not buy anything off this guy i brought a fuel press reg off him about 2 months ago still haven't seen it and i don't think it was sent at all as i was chasing him for a month after i paid for it and he was saying he keeps forgetting to send it ect. useless !!

  15. Posted · Report reply

    If you need details on how to check it you might be best getting a mechanic to do. ( no disrespect intended) Do you have a haynes manual?

    access is tricky unless you have tiny hands (mmmm tiny hands) Leave the HT leads on, there are 3? captive bolts holding the cap on the front of the engine.( I have seen come caps in an easier location but that was a 323i) you will need a small socket or a ratcheting box wrench. the bottom one you have to undo by feel. Undo those 3 bolts and pull them back, (long threads but they special washers so they wont fall out) then carefully tilt/rotate the cap and wriggle it out sideways. Check the contact points inside the cap - 6 brass terminals, and look for cracks or tracking on the plastic. Also check the contact point of the rotor which can be cleaned with fine sandpaper. If the points in the cap are all pitted or corroded you will need to replace. There is also a centre contact on a spring.

    If you haven't changed it in 6 months i would recommend doing it and the rotor arm - my 325 seems to chew through then every 6 months or so. If you do change it label the HT leads and the cap so you can match it up. Pull the leads off using the caps, not on the lead wire itself or you may break them.(new leads more $$$)

    when you reassemble take care not to damage the rotor (this comes off with an allen key ) The cap will only go on one way and you want it square and evenly tightened. If the cap is mis aligned at start up you will be buying another.

    No offence taken im not a mechanic im a electronics tech lol, just like to try do things myself, thanks for the details iv got a mate that is a mechanic so ill take your advice and also get him to help me out. and iv got the manual so hopefully i wont make anything worse and if i do ill have more annoying questions for you guys.

    thanks heaps.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    youre porbably on the right track...having hard start issues arnt you??

    i was and figured the fuel rail was loosing pressure overnight or if it sits for a while because once running it would start easy everytime

    so threw in a second hand FPR and now starts first time every time

    if its not that it could be a leaky injector and ud test that by removing fuel rail and applying power to fuel pump to see if any leak

    if not that theres a check valve on the pump that could be the culprit

    hope this helps

    yea when its left for a few days it will be hard to start, i have to have my foot flat on the accerlator and then it finily starts up after turning the key 4 about 10sec. it does it when its warm tho too. i turn it off one day and then it just wouldnt start again. i talked to a mechanic and he thinks that the injectors probly wont be the problem but iv seen alot of forms on the net where that has been the prob. iv hurd about that valve could be this but i have replaced the fuel pump with a 2nd hand one and still have the same problem.

  20. Posted · Edited by bradi65 · Report reply

    price reduced to 500 i need it gone asap its just taking up space now

    have you still got it ? where about are you located ? is the electronics all still in the car or has it been complectly spripped.

    i need front shocks and springs rear springs, wheels , exaust. does you car have any of these ?

    thanks

  21. Posted · Report reply

    hay guys.

    iv got a 1989 e30 320i the m20b20 motor. having a few problems with fuel, i think its my injectors leaking but i was looking to see if anyone had a fuel pressure regular that i could buy. As this is a cheaper start than replacing my injectors, also if anyone has or know where to get reasonably priced injectors i would be interested.

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