sammcj2000

FYI - Mission successful. (Using WinOLS) http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....mp;#entry354364

BTW, Ross's auto to manual / checksum calculator looks really good up on the site aye. What else is going to be put up on bminfo.co.nz?

I've attached a Siemens MS41 'How to tune' guide. (This is available on www.ecuconnections.com) OK well dumping from a Siemens MS41.0 is a bit of a bugger because the flash chip is soldered onto the DME. My mate Ross's father who is very skilled with electronics did this for me: -Desoldered the Intel flash chip (28f200) from the DME. -Ross put the chip in his willem eeprom programmer and dumped the BIN for me. -We got in 2x AMD 29f200 flash chips and dumped the BIN from my old Intel flash chip onto it. -Ross's father then soldered a small ejectable socket onto the DME to make the new AMD 29f200 chip fit and be easily removed for flashing. -We installed the DME (with the new AMD 29f200 chip) back in my car with the original software still loaded (to prove it would work) and it did. -We then uploaded my tuned BIN image to the AMD 29f200 chip and placed this back in the DME and back in the car. Overall, it's a pretty simple process, but you _need_ someone that is good at soldering small connections. If you have an OBD2 / Bosch system this would probably be a lot easier as their chips are already socketed. BTW - feel free to download my 'tuned' image above and compair it to yours / a stock image and see the difference at those addresses - having said that, if you feel like spending $50, the admin from ECU Connections did it really quickly short notice, I PM'd him and within 15mins he had a the first version done Siemens_MS41_Tuning_Guide.pdf

I've had my BIN tuned by the owner of 'http://www.ecuconnections.com'. I paid him to have it done, but I think it's worth it. Fuel increased by 6 miliseconds threw whole rev range in WOT Timing advanced by 8 deg Spark Increased by 4Degs in whole rev range Spark Increased by 4degs in WOT range Rpm limit set to 7000rpm e36328_95octane_NAtune.zip

For anyone that's interesting in looking at my ECU software dump.... We've removed the chip and have taken a dump. We've then dumped that back onto a new chip (29f200) which is up and running in the car (I had to get the Siemens DME socketed to take a removable chip holder thing (technical term unknown!) to put the new chips in. Here is my BIN file (inside a rar) http://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B6UN...OGIwNzVk&hl=en Info about car: 1996 OBD1 E36 328i Manual Coupe RHD. (Yes it is OBD1 as it's euro spec not US) 95-98 Octane fuel is always used. M50 intake and cold-air-intake system installed. Getrag 260 Manual Conversion.

I just managed to pull a new error off the car! "Lambda regulation limit exceeded: oxygen sensor 2, bank 2, cylinder 4-6: after catalytic converter" I'm guessing that means the 2nd oxy sensor does need replacing? Or... maybe that error was before I fixed the small intake vacuum leak? I will have to clear errors and re-test tomorrow.

Thanks Glenn - Guess what? - I just found a tiny vac leak on the intake (that I just fixed), seems to run a bit better now, I'll re-take the readings tomorrow and see if there is any change then give you a Buzz!

I was wondering what the good people of bimmersport though of my sensor readings... I've got a few issues like: -Average low-end performance. -Revving up between upwards gear changes (pretty sure this is my ECU looking for the auto box still though...) -Throttle seems a little less responsive than I would have expected. -The car seems to run a bit better before it's warmed up. Modifications: -Manual Conversion (DME/ECU Reflashed to manual) -M50 intake (Adaptations reset and low end performance was average before the intake was installed) -'Golf Tee Mod' OK, here are all the outputs from my sensors. I noticed both oxygen sensor voltages we bouncing around from high to low, although both reached almost the same highs and lows it appeared to be at random? (it's possible this is my software i guess?) Note: It has not been driven today, I let it warm up to 1/2 in my driveway before I took these readings. Idle speed was between 680 and 720rpm. I have also posted this in the depths of another thread here. (By the way, if anyone in CHCH wants me to plug into their car to see what their readings are feel free to PM me and I'll try to help.)

FYI - http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....rt=#entry353655

OK, here are all the outputs from my sensors. I noticed both oxygen sensor voltages we bouncing around from high to low, although both reached almost the same highs and lows it appeared to be at random? (it's possible this is my software i guess?) Note: It has not been driven today, I let it warm up to 1/2 in my driveway before I took these readings. Idle speed was between 680 and 720rpm. (By the way, if anyone in CHCH wants me to plug into their car to see what their readings are feel free to PM me and I'll try to help.)

Ill have a look tonight, I know it was a bit slow to warm up and the reading a bit jittery. The car seems to run a bit better when its cold. Weird thing: the car shakes around / pulls/pushes under light throttle.

Hi glenn, I was looking into an o2 sensor actually. I think the second one is a bit lazy. I get no knock sensor errors.

Holding revs between gears, high idle, but more probably related to this sensor: Lack of low end power / the engine 'hesitates' for a split second when accelerating and low rpm.

Hey, Just wanted to get a price a replacement o2 sensor for me 36 328i (obd1). Pretty sure mine might be buggered.

Oh geez, fly by wire, is that easy to fix? what exactly goes screwy(/ie)? Yep, I've cleared the adaptations twice.

Interesting. So my revving up between gears and 680-720rpm idle has come back to haunt me! I have a feeling my car is not keeping it's settings and is 'constantly relearning'. I've noticed the the clock has been loosing its settings every day or two which is odd. I'm wondering there is something with my TPS or ICV as I'm getting a dead-spot / bog in power down really low. I have also noticed that on idle, if I tap the juice, it bogs for about half a second before revving up. So I'm out of $ and wondering WTF is going on....

Thanks Kerry, I'll try this tomorrow night.

I'm trying to remove my EGS / Trans computer (located on top of the ECU in the engine bay). The problem is, I can't physically get the thing out, the ECU / DME comes out very easily, but the trans computer just won't budge. What am I missing? (1 is the trans computer) ECU Removal here: http://www.turnermotorsport.com/catalog/e36_ecu_removal.htm

If I was to borrow one of those, it wouldn't come back in the same manner...

If I was to borrow one of those, it wouldn't come back in the same manner...

Well mine is shipping to CHCH! I just got it off ebay, hope this link works as I'm at work and ebay is blocked. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...6&viewitem=

I've actually purchased one (NZ$40) but it will be a few weeks before it gets here. Other problem is: My 328 is a OBD1, the Galleto only works with OBD2 I think.

Anyone in CHCH with a Galleto 1260 / 1250 that I could borrow to dump my ECU to a BIN? I can offer you any services my GT1 / DIS setup can provide in return.

Howdy, You shouldn't have to bridge the pins on your OBD connector for the E46. The fix is only for OBD1 car's.

rad thanks.