sammcj2000

Ah! Awesome, I wonder if anyone's got pre-modded BIN's? Thanks dude!

We did have to do the OBD1 modification to get the cable to work? Yeah it's Siemens running MS41.0 It also has no connection inside the car, which I thought pointed towards OBD1?

Nope, mines stock OBD1! (build date is June 1996) I have heard of people converting them to OBD1 but I'm not 100% why they'd want to? Yeah, I'm pretty sure there will be software out there to do it, OR someone will have a .bin chip image from AC or Alpina model that could be flashed onto our chips.

Hi All, I was wondering if anyone has used any ECU remapping software? OR, If I was to upload a ROM of my ECU, could someone here remap / mod it for me? I dont have the $$ to take my car for a dyno and I'd rather learn how to do *basic* remapping myself. I've got a GT1 and modified carsoft cable that allows full ECU programming, I just need to find some software that can do it. I do realise: -It will never be as good as a dyno. -I might screw things up. Car and mods: 96' OBD1 E36 328i Coupe Manual conversion M50 intake Airbox unrestricted

Whoops! Ross just corrected my 'correction': "Actually I was referring to my E46 not having that pin there. Your E36 /DOES/ have the pin and required it for programming. My E46 worked without it and not surprisingly as that part of the diag socket does not have pin 18 fitted." >>Document updated.

Whoops thats a mistake, It's supposed to read "my E36.", Are you in CHCH?

Hi Glenn, Will be interesting to see how it works with yours. For what we understand, even though you can flash your ECU with the part / program number from a manual unit, it still uses the hardware found coded in EWS, Your GM code in the EWS provides the ECU with what options you're running. We're not 100% sure if this is also true for OBDII models but we can't see why not. I do have a 100% working VMWare image of my GT1 / DIS setup if needed. Of course for legal reasons you would have to own the rights to the software too

Hey no worries, I really need to work out a doc for that too, we actually used EasyDIS which was very easy to setup, I can post some howto docs that someone else as written on setting this up for you. I used a VM, you have to make sure the RAM is set to 256MB and the hard drive to the right size (cant remember off the top of my head, 18.93gb or something?) I'll give some more info tonight / tomorrow, I'm flat tack at work. Also if you're in CHCH I'm happy to meet up / help out.

I believe if its at 700 it still thinks its an auto.

Yeah I think thats the same. But if the ECU thinks the auto box is still installed, it raises the rev's slightly to make the gear change smooth. I wonder if having OBDII makes a difference?

The guy I bought it from did the usual bridge bypass to allow it to start, stock wiring otherwise.

Mine started straight away, but yeah it has more power up top now and the rev's return better. Pretty interesting! Do you know what their idle speeds were?

No worries! Are you sure? What is your idle speed? 328 should be 550RPM for a manual, if its an auto it will be around 650-700RPM.

The carsoft cable mods that Ross made are: Pin 16 of the 20pin diag connector needs to be connected through a 4k7 resistor to pin 9 of the serial port Pin 1 of the 20p diag via 4k7 to pin 6 on the serial The above two allow INPA and friends to detect battery and ignition. Could connect direct without the resistors but you're in megadanger of blowing up your serial port so definitely use the resistors. Pin 14 on the 20pin diag connector needs to be bridged (no resistor just a link) to pin 18 on the diag connector for OBDI cars to allow programming. FYI: On the 20pin diag connector: Pin 1 is terminal 15 (ignition voltage) Pin 14 is an always on 12v source Pin 16 is terminal 30 (battery voltage) Pin 18 is programming voltage for OBDI cars (not fitted in my E46) On the serial port: Pin 6 is Data Set Ready "DSR" (used by EDIABAS for ignition detect) Pin 9 is Ring Indicator "RI" (used for battery detect) On the carsoft cable the serial DB9 male to female has all wires in it pin for pin. The 20pin diag connector to the DB15 however only has 4 wires in it so an additional 2 wires will need to be added for the above mods.

And the doc it's self: (updated at https://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0AaUN4XDu...zl4Zg&hl=en ) ---------------------- Reprogram BMW after doing Automatic to Manual Conversion. (Based on my E36 experience) written by Ross W, and Sam M. This guide assumes the following: -You have programmed a BMW ECU/DME before using DIS or similar. -You are taking all the necessary safety precautions. (Fully charged battery etc…) -You have DIS working (We used EasyDIS 1.0, Base 44) -You have Ediabas (INPA, NCS Expert, IFH Serve) installed and working. -You’re able to read between the lines of our crappy document, some steps may differ slightly and our wording may be somewhat imprecise. Make notes of the following: -Your Basic Control Unit part number. (Mine is 1429861) -The equivalent Programmed Control Unit to suit your car but for a manual spec (mine was 1429954) – I found several available on parts websites online. -Your VIN Also noteworthy: -We did this on a 1996 OBD1 Euro 328i Coupe, Siemens MS41.0 with Getrag 260 manual conversion. -We used a Carsoft cable (Chinese version) that had been modified to provide voltage readings and had several pins bridged to work with ODB1. -We will take no responsibly for ANY damage that could be caused by this process – use at your own risk! The gist of things: If you simply reflash your ECU/DME to a part number from a manual, the ZCS coding values stored in the EWS will cause your ECU/DME to think the automatic box is still installed! To fix this, you need to change the GM code stored in the EWS; this is done through comparing a value from the E36ZST.000 file in NCS Expert’s Daten Folder with your current GM code. This is simpler than it sounds. Steps: 1) Find your current GM code from DIS; this is located in programming under ZCS/FA Coding – Choose Print Current Values. Answer the questions provided and note down all three codes when you get them. (GM, SA & VM will be displayed). 2) Open the following file in notepad C:\NCSEXPER\DATEN\E36\E36ZST.000 3) Find the line with your model, engine, old transmission and US/Euro information. You will see a 8 character value on the left of the large number of 0’s that will look something like 11B20000. (The non-0 parts of this number should match the start of your GM code.) 4) Locate the same car but in manual, you will see the value above is slightly different, for an e36 328-coupe manual the value is 11A20000. Note this down; this will be the base for your new GM code. 5) Now match your new GM code found in the last step with your current GM code provided by DIS but ignoring the last digit, which is only a checksum value. For example: Old GM code from DIS: 11B20700B I found the manual GM base code to be 11A20000 My new GM code will be 11A20700 (and we will work out the last digit in the next step). 6) Open NCS Expert. (My version is in German) Click File > Load Profil Choose Expertmode Press the first button – FG/ZCS/FA Press the first button again – ZCS eingeben Choose your model (e36) Insert your VIN, Press OK Enter your new GM (without the last digit) (Eg: 11A20700) Enter your current SA (without the last digit) (Eg: 0000482001228491) Enter your current VN (without the last digit) (Eg: 0004BFA936) Tick checksumme berechnen and press OK. 7) Now in the top part of the display you will be provided with your new GM including your last character, which is the checksum value (mine was 11A207008). 8) Back in DIS / Programming Choose ZCS/FA Coding Choose Recoding Choose the EWS module 9) If you get prompted something along the lines of ‘Are these correct?’ when displaying the current GM,SA & VM values – Choose NO. 10) Enter your new GM and your original SA & VN (these wont have changed). Go through the programming process as normal. 11) Now we go to DME Programming Choose exchange control unit Determine Control Unit 12) When asked “Is the faulty unit still installed in the car?†choose NO. 13) Enter your current basic control unit part number. (Mine was 1429861). Enter your chassis number. Enter your replacement programmed control unit part number (Mine was 1429954). 14) You’ll need to click down a few times, then back to ‘Program Control Unit’ Enter details are requested (Kms, Chassis number), Start programming! (Make sure your battery is full of juice!) 15) DIS will now walk you through clearing your adaptation values. 16) Open ZCS/FA programming; follow the process to Align-EWS to DME. 17) Open DIS – Diagnostics and do a quick clear of errors. All done! You should notice: -At first the car will not be that zippy, as it has to relearn its adaptation values. -Once the car is warm, the idle speed will drop from the automatic 650-700RPM to 500-550RPM manual setting. -When changing gears you will notice the rev’s drop a lot faster between gear changes (if you have a lightened flywheel you revs may still rise 200RPM~ at times.) -I’m not 100% sure on this one as I’ve only just done it, but I’m pretty sure the car actually feels a bit peppier at the top-end also, mine actually seems to sound a bit deeper when applying rev’s! Carsoft Cable Mods: Pin 16 of the 20pin diag connector needs to be connected through a 4k7 resistor to pin 9 of the serial port Pin 1 of the 20p diag via 4k7 to pin 6 on the serial The above two allow INPA and friends to detect battery and ignition. Could connect direct without the resistors but you're in megadanger of blowing up your serial port so definitely use the resistors. Pin 14 on the 20pin diag connector needs to be bridged (no resistor just a link) to pin 18 on the diag connector for OBDI cars to allow programming. FYI: On the 20pin diag connector: Pin 1 is terminal 15 (ignition voltage) Pin 14 is an always on 12v source Pin 16 is terminal 30 (battery voltage) Pin 18 is programming voltage for OBDI cars (not fitted in my E46) On the serial port: Pin 6 is Data Set Ready "DSR" (used by EDIABAS for ignition detect) Pin 9 is Ring Indicator "RI" (used for battery detect) On the carsoft cable the serial DB9 male to female has all wires in it pin for pin. The 20pin diag connector to the DB15 however only has 4 wires in it so an additional 2 wires will need to be added for the above mods. [Revision 1.1 - 22/6/10]

DIY Auto to Manual ECU Reflash - Success! I've put the following post up in a couple of forums around the net, we've had a real headache trying to get my newly converted E36 328i to realise it's a manual - We don't want anyone else to have the same headaches we did! Big thanks go out to my buddy Ross who spent a great deal of hours trying to fix this with me. Symptoms I was experiencing: -High idle (700RPM~). -The car was revving up 300-500RPM between gear changes. -Slight lack of top-end power. ---- Well, what can I say... We've done it! - We've finally figured out how to properly reflash the ECU/DME to a manual. If you simply reflash your ECU/DME to a part number from a manual, the ZCS coding values stored in the EWS will cause your ECU/DME to think the automatic box is still installed! To fix this, you need to change the GM code stored in the EWS. Due to the lack of solid documentation available for BMW Auto to Manual Programming, My friend and I have documented the process to make sure others don't have to go through the stress we did! EDIT: Updated version of the document here: https://gist.github.com/sammcj/8a958942fdad9ef6ebc4289a4de4dcef If the link goes down, get hold of me and I will repost it as I probably won't be needing to check this thread any longer. Did I notice a difference?... YES -At first the car will not be that zippy at first, as it has to relearn its adaptation values. -Once the car is warm, the idle speed will drop from the automatic 650-700RPM to 500-550RPM manual setting. -When changing gears you will notice the rev’s drop a lot faster between gear changes (if you have a lightened flywheel you revs may still rise 200RPM~ at times.) -I’m not 100% sure on this one as I’ve only just done it, but I’m pretty sure the car actually feels a bit peppier at the top-end also, mine actually seems to sound a bit deeper when applying rev’s! ***Update Below***

I ripped out the actuator and applied voltage to the rear pins, I can make it lock by moving the lever off the 'door is locked' microswitch but I can't make it unlock again. The motor works in both directions with voltage directly applied. With a multimeter we could see the +12 and -12v charge when the doors are locked / unlocked. Sound right?

Need a working E36 Lock Actuator for my 96' 328 coupe. The current one doesn't seem to work properly with the remote central locking. FYI on this common issue: http://good-times.webshots.com/album/557789582nyYUxv?start=0

Hi, I'm looking for some kind-hearted adventurous individual that would offer to set my E36's ECU to Manual. It's just had a manual conversion and the rev's sit up looking for the auto box between gear changes. Thanks in advance

Hey, Nice 328, would look mint with black rims!

Thanks,Funny story about those wheels... I bought them from a friend who thought they were pretty damn nice and didn't end up using them on his car... when I sold my e30 they went with it. last week I was standing at this guys place looking at this 328... I look under a car cover and what do I see peeking out of it?... my old wheels! He now has them on his e21!

Hi All, I've been lurking around these forums for a number of years but never really posted anything, TBH I've had a pretty good run with my past bimmers and haven't needed much help! Today I bought a 96' 328i Coupe that's just had a manual conversion (g260) from a bloody good bastard on these very forums. Past bimmers: 1990 E30 325 auto (South African) <- amazing car 1991 E36 320 manual 1992 E34 525 auto 1991 E36 318 auto and another 20 or so other non-bimmers. Anyway, I'm sure you'll be seeing me around the forums a bit more now, I also spend a lot of time on the kiwibiker forums as I ride a 98' Suzuki GSX 750 Katana when it's warmer.

I'm looking into dropping the front of my 96' 328 coupe down a bit. Nothing stupid, I was thinking 25-30mm? Looking for something affordable, price with shipping to chch please

Thanks,To chch?

Yeah I think I probably will... Just got to find one cheap first