Matty

After some procrastination, have popped my sh*t in today.

At Idle, its as quiet as a white boy walking through Harlem... has quite a nice sound

Feelin the difference, fo sho....

SEBRING DTM STYLEZ got tha Jammaster James seal of approval....aiiight

hmm, that's inspired me not to buy one.

You shouldn't need a new head unit - yours can probably be re-programmed to pick up NZ frequencies...

See this article

Hope that helps.

Nope, tried that before and it doesn't work.

Side issue - I was told my 2000's Jap head unit is the "big plug" version - can someone clarify this in terms of what it looks like, what to ask for if I want a replacement OEM head unit (with normal radio band), and what iPod hookup products are compatible?

cheers.

just check the radiator end tanks piping/connectors .. if it starts to go brownish light color .. get it replaced.

Hmm, reminds me of my MX-5...

Keep in mind there are several other factors to consider here.

One, you can pick up a bargain used import here, which ou can't do in many countries. Our 330i cost $28K, whereas at home (in Australia) the same thing would be about 10-15K more. OK, this has nothing to do with new cars, but it's good anyway...

Two, cars have bugger-all resale value in the US. So the total cost of ownership probably isn't dramatically less.

Follow up - Took the car to BM Workshop today. (well, the wife took it in anyway, but I spoke to Trevor on the phone for a bit, discussing various service issues)

Apparently there was a previous fault with one of the cam angle sensors, the part had been replaced but the ECU probably not reset. So they did that and it's noticeably better now. Not perfect, but as good as it's going to get I think - it's not an M3...

As a side note, I must say a big thanks to BM Workshop. Very friendly and professional to deal with, Trevor was even pointing out issues that I wasn't familiar with (like the backlighting of the gear selection indicator next to the gearstick - didn't even realise there was one!), and recommending precautionary maintenance (apparently the cooling system parts are prone to failure ~80000 km?)

Bummer about #1.

#2 is all your fault though. Never drive faster than the speed at which the distance in which you can stop safely equals the visibility distance you have. (still sucks but)

Sweet, might look into that (the wife will never know). I assume you can access the wires by pulling up the trim around the shifter somewhere?

I don't think it's anything mechanical, but thanks for the tips anyway. Always filled with premium fuel, but I'm not sure what RON that is in NZ... 95? Will look for some 98.

I too have noticed the learning of the ECU - spank it for a few corners and suddenly the auto hangs on to lower gears for a lot longer. Trouble is the wife drives it 95% of the time, so it's probably fallen asleep by now...

Oh, and as another off-topic, I hate the reverse +/- sequential "manual" layout. Forwards should be - and vice versa.

dude it aint that bad ... you sure your not getting confused between the auto gearbox chnages delays ...

tip: use manual mode .. between gear changes blip off slightly on the accelerator .. and you get faster changes. Will take you a bit to get use to.

Otherwise get aftermarket software. I think people confuse the 3 series as a sports car, buy a z4 or m3 for that. Its a luxary sedan remember.

Definitely not the auto. There's no engine noise, no flare up, just a lag before anything happens. It occurs both off the line and from cruise. Like I said, an old Camry auto I drive occasionally shits on it for responsiveness.

I'm not expecting it to be a sports car, I just think it could be much better. At the very least, as good as a Camry...

There's no technical reason why a "drive by wire" throttle should have bad response. Drive a current model MX-5 for proof. Hell, you could even make it respond FASTER than you can push the pedal, if you program it properly...

It's all in the programming, be it for emissions or traction control or whatever they've made it pretty awful. And that's a real shame from a self-proclaimed "driver's car" company.

What's a good (ie, not too expensive) source for a spare key for an E46?

We've got one remote key and one "valet" key, but given the latter is plastic I don't like using it. It would be nice to have another remote key; is BMW the only source?

Not really a performance mod, but this is the closest category I can think of...

Is there any way to fix the throttle response in the 330i? It is, in standard form, to be polite.... crap. Press the pedal and nothing happens for half a second, then boom, off it goes. Makes it tricky to drive quickly and smoothly.

Seems to be with the electronic throttle programming as far as I can tell... Maybe I'm just spoiled coming from an MX-5, but hell, even the 15 year old Camry at work is vastly better.

This is on a 2000 Jap, auto, ASC equipped model (if that makes a difference). Surely it's possible to hack the software and adjust it to suit?

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<--- My wife drives this. I pedal...

The code is made up of one or two letters, or one letter and one number. It indicates the maximum speed that the tire can sustain for a ten minute endurance without being a danger.

not much help that...

As for #2, I'd run fairly high pressure (in the 40s) to minimise rolling resistance.

... 75-120k of this places stress on the reverse engagement piston it eventually blows its seals and buggers the drum.

And I take it these parts aren't easily accessed and replaced before they let go?

well, I'll just have to tell the missus to go easy on it...

The E46 has a squeaky driver's door. I've tried squirting oil, and lithium grease at the hinge, but it doesn't seem to change anything. Any hot tips?

Well I did the test today, passed 33/35

Example: What is the maximum distance any item is allowed to overhang your trailer? I think your allowed to get three wrong out of 35-40 questions.

...and this was one of the two I got wrong even read it on the road code website, a couple of weeks ago though...

are there any warning signs, or checks/adjustments/changes that can be done to avoid whatever happened to you? We have a '00 330 with about 72K on the clock, I'd prefer not to have to fix the auto...

Castor is the angle of the wheels fore/aft of the suspension axis. On some suspension setups (like in many BMW's and Mercs), the camber does change with steering.

Which is due, as CamB suggest, to the large amount of caster used on those cars.

The downsize of high caster angles is steering weight (which can be overcome with power steering) and the forces involved.

I am unsure of whether the NZ laws are the same. I do know that the Aussies expect you to only have once licence. i.e. they take you current one and punch a hole in it to void it.

It would suck. My Aus licence is paid up til 2013...

Unfortunately in the last 6 or so times I've been into and out of NZ, not one passport stamp...

I'm back in Aus next week but I'll be getting the NZ licence when I return.

I assume I get to keep my Aus licence? My wife wasn't sure, if you move to Aus and get an Aus licence you lose your OS licence apparently...

been running it nearly two years now...

check my jap -> international headunit swap thread .. it has a little bit on it.

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index.php?showtopic=8152

So you're saying there's no issues with either of those head units?

Would not recommend buying one for E36 till I actually see it working.

I'm still working with Dension + Installer to get it going.

That must be you he mentioned in an email to me. He told me to wait until the issues were sorted...

OTOH hybrid has I assume had no problem with an E46 installation, and either type of head unit (Jap/world)?

Hi,

You can drive on your Aus licience for 12 months before your required to get a NZ one. If you leave, say to return home for a holiday you get another 12 months apon your return. Only condition is that you aren't disqualified from driving in Aus.

refer fact sheet 56 LTSA

cheers Matt

I'm aware of that, but it has an effect on things like insurance excess...