sierra9260

How ridiculous is all this? Makes me not even want to have a car anymore. If they say I can go get f$#ked when I won't shell out hundreds after I've already paid hundreds in engine swapping and suspension then I will. I've heard most of the assessors don't even have a clue what they're looking for anyway. How is that at all safe?

LOL!! "Earthly Andy, kind to the environment. Keeping his catalytic converter clean since the 80's"

Need the old 4 pin + dud pin = 5 pin plug MAF sensor for an updated motronic ecu M20B20 320i I am in the Hawkes Bay area if there are any around..... Cheers

It could be this and it could be that mentality is probably just going to put you crook and cost you money, especially if your car is needed for daily use. I had a look at your video and honestly I have no clue, but could be a vacuum leak of some kind (the revs dropping off) and the clunking may even be a bad knock of some kind which could be a big job. I just replaced my 2 litre with another 2 litre as I got a good deal and had to get the car working, its a shame I couldn't get a 325i one but if you have the time you could get a hold of one which would give you a nice power increase plus a nice fresh working motor

I agree, but why sell? There is nothing more fun and nicer to own and drive than an e30 Just keep chipping away to make it nice and in years to come it will be a desirable timeless classic, especially the verts.

I just did a big engine swap and manual conversion. Messed about with my knackered old engine for so long. Ended up spending as much trying to fix the old motor as just buying a new one and putting in I think. Plus the new one has only 132 000ks You might find it better just getting a good deal on a replacement engine. Just make sure the compression is okay and its never been over heated and all of that stuff.

Wow awesome response to this guys. Always thankful for the guidance. I will give BNT a call tomorrow and try and sort some redline MTL for a decent price and fill this sucker, see how it does.

Great thanks for that. I'll take a look. How much oil does the gear box take so I know how much to put in with a pumper

I have a 1988 Bmw e30 320i M20B20. It has a Getrag 240 5 speed gear box. I thought it best before I drive it too much after it has just had a new manual conversion, that I change the gear box oil. I have had a search through some forums and there seems to be a lot of different types you can get. I also learnt sometimes there are tags on the bell housing that indicate which oil should be used. I thought I would ask some local people as I would get a better idea and have some more up to date knowledge on what oil to buy for the 240. Also how is it drained out then filled? There is a small port on top of the gear box with a plastic cap in it... is it filled in through here? There is what appears to be a plug which has an inverted hex indentation of about 17mm, on on bottom of the box. Is this the drain plug? I know how to fill the crank case oil but I was wondering what a good oil would be for an M20. Thanks guys.

Thats awesome Andy, thank you. Do you know if it will be compatible with my engine and things? The engine is 1990 so im fairly sure it would have the updated motronic system with the o2 sensor etc, I think the maf plug has 4 pins + a dud pin so its like a 5 pin plug. Fair call on the shipping side, ive seen a few on trade me but if you're coming up I'll just wait. Thanks mate, fingers crossed that will sort it out

Looked up some videos on youtube of faulty air flow meters and a little trick some people use is disconnecting the plug while the car is running. If the engine starts running more consistently or 'better' when the plug to the sensor is disconnected chances are you're in the right place. I did this to my air flow meter and the revs dropped and it seemed to just idle there, a lot better than it does with it connected. So now I'm really after an Air Flow Meter.

Good points there chaps, changed the fuel pump with a wreckers one when the old engine was in the car and didn't seem to make a difference, although there is a possibility that pump could have been bad too.. The idle is very steady though and doesn't play about at all. My pump does have an audible buzz but I was under the impression this isn't anything too troublesome? I am usually wellington based Andy and that is a most kind offer but the car is in Hawkes Bay where its currently being worked on. Although I appreciate the offer. Another interesting point I have just thought of is that when revving high on cold start if left for a while then turned off, then back on the idle drops... Almost as though you have reset something by turning the key. I will try another TPS then I'm afraid I'm all out of ideas but I'll see how this goes.

Hi all! Over the summer I had the opportunity to do a huge overhaul on my e30 320i and I must say I have completely revived the tired old girl. I have put a nice new engine in, removed some rust, changed the transmission from auto to manual and shes running very nicely. A little niggle I have found is just that when I quickly or sharply, press the accelerator pedal the engine splutters a little and the revs drop for a moment, kind of stutters and then will sort itself out. I will try and pop up a video shortly. Before I changed engines the car had a myriad of problems and if memory serves me right, this was one of them. However it is a massively watered down version of the problem and it doesn't really affect the general runnings of the car to get from A to B. The only things that weren't changed when the engine was swapped was the fuel pump and MAF sensor. Basically everything else has been changed over.... On a side note a fella was trying to help me sort some idling issues on the old engine and started playing with the MAF sensors allen key adjustment screw. one other little niggle I have is the engine revving past 2k revs when it is first started for the day. I'm assuming this might be as simple as changing the thermostat? I have put in a new radiator too and I thought the car might just sort itself out when the water has cycled etc etc. Any input here, as always is greatly appreciated. This car would probably still be a giant paper weight if it wasn't for the really good people on these forums so many thanks!

Hey mate, would have been very keen but bought one from BNT just before you posted. Thanks anyway and appreciate all the advice. Learnt something new, you can good new parts from BNT and Repco

Rung Repco and BNT cheapest I could find was $46 from BNT. Very lucky getting it for less than $30! Thanks for the advice guys