sierra9260

Thanks, almost got this conversion done. What does one do about the covering cap and felt ring for the pilot bearing? Improvise? :banghead:

That's interesting because I have been doing some research on this and the consensus appears to be that everyone thinks it goes behind the flywheel. Not on the bolt head side. But that would make more sense on what you're saying. Apparently it takes out some force on the clutch and gear box components when changing gears etc. Thank for the info on the alignment tool, I didn't know super cheap would have one for an e30. I don't have a torque wrench either but do you know how many nm those flywheel bolts have to be? Cheers!!

got a spacer for the flywheel in my manual kit but it won't fit on the end of the drive shaft so I have used the auto spacer when I pulled off the starter wheel there was one. It fits on but is thicker. The shaft at the end seems to be tapered and gets smaller so the one I go with the kit can fit on. Will it be okay to use the auto one which is thicker? Also is there anything I can use for a clutch alignment tool? I don't have one. Cheers guys

Just did some research and interestingly it appears the seal I'm referring to is in fact just a dust cover. I think I may have just bled the thing wrong. The piston was pushed out when i was pressing the clutch down and just kept wanting to go further resulting in fluid spitting out. Are there any decent guides showing exactly how to bleed a clutch and what I should do at that point of the piston going way far out and not going back in?

Okay so new problem. Ive got a few new replacements and things coming so I can finally have my car running but now it looks as though the seal on the clutch slave cylinder has had it.... I put the manual pedal assembly in got some new hydraulic hoses and hooked it all up to bleed the clutch line to see what nick the cylinder was like as it looked pretty suspect. Pressed the clutch to the point where the piston was right out and not going back in and then started spitting fluid. Am I able to get this seal replaced? If so where would I go? I hope I can get this thing refurbished as getting a whole new cylinder looks like a right nightmare. appreciate the help

Appreciate the help guys. I know I sound pretty cheap but just want to keep my costs down at the moment. etwenty1 I messaged you about that bracket. Looks like I'll get onto Gavin about these extra bits. So other than the rear main seal by the back of the crank shaft and the seal tucked in behind the input shaft on the gear box are there any other seals possibly around the bell housing? Or am I good there. Buying new clutch plate would make for me definitely having to get the fly wheel resurfaced, is that right? I'm in Hawkes Bay by the way.

Hey Folks. Recently just bought a new engine for my e30 as I was sick of the old one. So now I can put on my manual kit I pieced together which has been sitting out of the car for a long time now and I am ever so excited to get it all in over the next few weeks. I have looked up a few resources on the interweb about things you need and should replace. I have spent quite a bit on this whole endeavor and I really only want to replace what is needed, to be frank. At the risk of sounding daft, where would a good place be to get a new pilot bearing and throw out/thrust bearing? Are they genuine BMW parts that are needed or quite interchangeable/available parts? Also when I bought my tranny etc it had a rubber seal type thing on the bell housing but it was more just a bit of broken rubber I have looked but can't find the answer. Will I need a seal for the bell housing or can it just bolt straight up? Also I was sold the kit by a real p*#$k and he didn't give me all the parts that was needed. I don't have the rubber bushing bracket the shifter arm sits in which looks like this http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/299307_x800.jpg Is there anything I can mock up to make this work or would it be best getting the original part because its seems near impossible to find one where I am. Lastly is it daft to put this clutch in that looks as if its going to slip at 5th gear or will it be fine to get a few miles from? I don't need it to last forever and won't mind replacing it after a year or so. http://postimg.org/image/tb57i2dht/ thanks in return for the help guys

Yeah I had suspected I would be better off going with a motronic equipped unit as mine is an 88'. How much would you want for the M20B25 you have? Its good to know you're local

Hi guys, looking around for a new engine for my e30. Preferably a B25. I currently have a tired old 2.0 that needs to come out as its never been running right. I would just like to replace it as it seems like a more economical option rather than replacing more gaskets and wasting more time and money on + I would rather a little more power too. Just a few questions as I haven't really looked up anything about the swap yet, will the mounts be the same? If I get the cylinder block, sump, head, intake manifold will I need anything else? Or can I just plug everything back in from the stuff I already have? Cheers!!

Wow that is a really tidy e30! I love the Mph & Kmph speedo, I have been looking for one of those. Good luck with your sale man.

Finally finished with my car. They said its got them beat?? They said it has a small leak somewhere when they ran compression tests. But said its not enough to cause the car to do what its doing and they also said the oil which was overfilled could have been mostly water... however there are no other signs of water mixing with the oil to my knowledge and since I emptied it many months ago it hasn't filled back up it has stayed at a constant level. Any way ive already wasted too much money and time on this M20B20 I would rather spend the money I have spent on gaskets and garage work on a new M20B25... I am going to have an ask around this site for one and just swap it out if its possible. I think thats the best option and I'll get some more power while I'm at it. Thanks for the help everyone

Sorry I've been using my phone and didn't notice this thread has an extra page now so I didn't see your comment.. I will give that a go if and when I get the car back.

So its been in the best auto sparky's shop for nearly a week, went down there today and the car is still running like clogged up toilet. They replaced that blue plug mentioned but no change. He's played around with ICV and throttle position sensor but apparently they are still stumped. Sounds like everything they've tried I could have told them wouldn't work :/ but they know best... I wanted it to go to a shop so compression, spark and fuel could have been ruled out then sensors tried. what fun

Well yes that's what I thought I might do. May as well make them new while its all open. Although I don't want it to cost a bomb. Cheers on the lightweight link I saw that on there. Is $300 a little steep?

Hey bimmer sportians... I'm doing a manual conversion on my e30 and thought it would be a good idea to replace the clutch and pilot bearing while I'm at it. Does anyone have any or know where I could buy for cheap? I saw a good condition one on trade me go for $45 with a lot of body still on the plate.. So I'd be happy spending around that much. I wouldn't mind hanging out for one. Cheers

Sounds good mate, was it a brand new one? How much did it set you back? I took the radiator sensor out and one of the thermostat ones... (Most definitely should have got both out) and cleaned all the clumped up cooling fluid off it then flushed my cooling system... Interesting thing was the car idled at a nice level pace with a lot less play than usual.. Could be going down your road a bit there. This problem could be a myriad of small things. The main issue is still taking that gas pedal of after revving the car and it struggling to get back to idling.

That is a good idea, the only one in the hawkes bay region is Jeff Gray and i can't afford to spend a bomb on them. Also i know i am very close and have already spent so much time trying to fix this... that said it may be more beneficial to have money well spent on a technician who won't waste my time. yes I didn't find anything much untoward apart from a bit of oily/moisture around the connecter plug which i dried and cleaned off... When the car fired up today it happily went to 5k rpm and beyond. does that mean i could rule out a spark problem and fuel delivery issue? I'll continue trying to clean things up this weekend. I did pull that temperature sensor in the thermostat housing out and it was pretty globby and horrible in it. Residue from the coolant was all over it. i don't have a multimeter handy so that was more of a reason to send it off to the sparky.

update everyone.. i have kindly been supplied with an excellent driveshaft from a member of this site! I am very grateful to all who gave me advice and tried to help :) be wary of handing money to people on trademe before being supplied the other half of the deal! Cheers guys

I cleaned the magnetic crank sensor as it was completely saturated in globby gritty oil and then got a jump start this morning as the car has been sitting for a while... It took about 2 cranks when it had enough juice and just fired into life... I was amazed as this has been a very seldom thing with my e30. I will keep working on things over the weekend but I've finally bit the bullet and I'm taking to an auto electrician on Monday. Hopefully that will avoid any ambiguity and o can just get straight to the problem causer.. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks for the help guys but it wasn't the C191 plug... I took that all out and although didn't get a photo it looks like the whole things was nearly brand new.. as well as the plastic box that houses the wires and connects to the injectors. Next I guess I will start doing some proper testing as my cables and connections look a bit stodgey.. I've heard that the cranks shaft position sensor also gives these symptoms if its faulty? Cheers

I'm in Wellington actually, how much would you want for it? You can P.M. me if you'd like. I'd be more than happy to pay freight costs. Cheers

Cheers guys. Posted a bit in the WTB section here. I'll try asking around a little.

Currently Wellington, but I have contacts in Hawkes Bay too. If I found one I wouldn't mind paying the freight.

In desperate need of a nice, balanced 1526mm driveshaft/propshaft to go in my 320i as I was ripped off by a fella on trademe who sold me a full manual conversion but never gave me the part . Just give me a quick p.m. or direct me to someone you may know of selling one if you like. Cheers guys!

I have an E30 320i that has just gone from bad to worse. When I bought her the oil was heavily over filled and I had to take about 2 litres out to get it back down to normal. All my air flow meter and TB was soaked in oil. Its still all through the intake manifold. I've done my best to clean everything out. The car takes ages to start, often works when I press the gas pedal rapidly while turning the key. It dies usually when at the lights idling after the engine has heated up. When put into gear it loses power and usually dies and sometimes won't start again until its cooled down. I bought a new ICV for it as it had some oil inside and the idle was playing around a bit. I've replaced a leak the exhaust manifold gasket was causing and I have a few ideas on where to go from here. It seems the spark is good and the pressure on the fuel rail is adequate (although untested) I'm assuming now its either the Crank Shaft Position Sensor or the Throttle Position sensor. It's been to a mechanic and had a fault code reader which gave nothing. I used to assum it was the fuel pump but I replaced that. I'd love to put my finger on what is actually causing this. On a side note the car runs much worse now I replaced the manifold gasket. It doesn't like the gas pedal being pressed at all and often just dies. Appreciate the help guys