bretta

Thanks Glenn - I'll pass on your details. Cheers

Cheers - I found out he has been quoted $198 + GST each!

Yet another friend is having troubles with his e46 320 mspec. He has been told he needs 6 new ignition coils as his car had oil leak in hte rocker cover, and damaged all 6 coils. Does this sound plausible? He just wants to check to see if he is being fed a line. Thanks in advance, Brett

Thanks for the advice - I'll try to talk my friend into joining this, and he can get the info first hand.

Hi. A friend has asked if it is ok to run his 2008 e70 X5 diesel without a particle filter in the exhaust. Apparently there is a 6 week wait until they arrive in the country, as a lot have started getting clogged. He has been advised by a Ferrari owner that a lot of his friends run their cars without the particle filter. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance. Brett.

Does anyone in (south) Auckland have a right hand side sun visor in gray that they want to sell? Cheers, Brett

Yes - they're the same. The main trouble is getting the tension pully across far enough to release enough pressure. I'm looking at having to take the radiator and front end off to get enough room to do this. I can't get a socket/power bar on, and the ring spanner has too much of an angle to stay on. The open end spanner is slipping off. I may just have to get a mobile mechanic to come put it on for me! Cheers.(And it is probably really easy with the specialised VW tool!)

I'm trying to fit a new serpentine belt to a 2002 VW Passat B5.5 V5. I have managed to get the belt on after fitting a new tensioner pulley, but can't get it over the last pulley (Alternator). I have released as much tension on the pulley as I can, and have moved the alternator as much as I can, but am about 1/4" to 1/2" away from getting the belt on. I would be grateful for ideas. Many thanks, Brett

Anyone around Auckland have one of these lying around in reasonable condition? I need to replace one to get warrant. Many thanks

My '97 323 has (sometimes) started to run rough after the engine has been running fore a while - anywhere from 3/4 hour to 2 hours. It feels like it is running on only 3 or 4 cylinders, loses power, idles roughly. If the motor is switched off for anything from 5 to 15 minutes, it quite often starts and runs ok, again for about 3/4 hour or more (I am generally back home by then). I am perplexed with the fact that if left for 5 minutes, everything runs fine for sometime before problem reappears, if at all. Any ideas of what I can check? Would plugs or coil packs the primary suspect? Could it be a fuel issue? All fluid levels are ok, Oil filter, Air Filter, plugs done at last oil service - only just down to 1 green light now. Cheers, Brett

Cheers - I appreciate teh help.

Thanks Glenn - this makes the 3rd over the past 6 years!

Hi I have a '98 Maxima that has a problem with the charging light staying on until the engine gets to about 3000 - 3500 rpm before going off. Then it sometimes stays off, but sometimes comes on until the revs get up again. I have checked the belt, and it appears to be tensioned ok. The Battery is coming up about 2 years old, and was a slightly heavier duty than the standard (but still a recommended type). The altenator was replaced (again) about 4 years ago. Can anyone point me to a possible problem in either battery or altenator, or something else? Thanks in advance Brett

Check out the AA - they were looking at an "advanced" driving skills training programme

Thanks - that makes more sense than CV joint

Hi I have a work colleague who has just bought a '97 - '98 Nissan Cefiro that she was told had a stuffed CV joint that was making a lot of noise. I took the car for a drive and heard a loud clicking when turning the steering wheel from one lock to the other - while still stationary. I have recently done the CV's on my Maxima, but they were only noisy when driving around corners, not when moving from lock to lock. Is the noise likely to be the CV's or something else? Any pointers would be gratefully received. Cheers

Hi All. My dad's 92 E36 320 sedan has had one of the aluminium holder drop off the bottom of the Front Passenger's window. What is the best glue to re-affix it? He went to Repco, and they told him Ados F2, but I'm not so sure this will be good enough. Any better suggestions will be gratefully received. After having done the driver's window on my e36, he now thinks I am guru on windows - so I don't want to dsappoint him! Cheers Brett

Does anyone (in Auckland, preferably) have an a/c pump for a '97 E36 323i 4-dr auto? Please PM me or text 021 633 093 with price, etc. Thanks Brett

Thanks Glenn and Brent. I managed to disconnect the a/c belt, and car started ok - so a/c clutch was problem. Now, to get the unit replaced! Fortunately, I have a replacement driver's window lifter coming today (so I can fit this to have a bit more ventilation coming through!), but that is another story . Looks like it will be out with the grinder to remove old mounting bushings, unless someone else has a better method. Once again, thanks to the above 2 guys. Cheers, Brett

Hi Glenn. I just had an assistant, and all pulleys seem to be turning. It almost wants to go, so maybe another problem. Can I call tomorrow morning about 9:00am? Thanks, Brett

Cheers for that inf. I jumped the car, but it made no difference. However, after turning motor over for about 30 seconds in about 3 bursts, the pully in middle bottom was very hot. I presume this is water pump, with a/c compressor on left,and altenator on the right (looking from front) (and belt tensioner between middle and right). Should water pump turn freely if belt is loosened? Cheers, Brett

Will do, Cheers

Cheers Glenn. I should have also said that after a/c stopped cooling and I arrived home, there was a (faint) smell similar to burnt electrical components, etc - didn't have time at that stage to investigate further, unfortunately.

Car: 1997 E36 323i Sedan Auto with M52 Vanos Motor (Jap import). Problem: About 800 m from home yesterday, a/c stopped cooling (motor was running fine). This morning, car wouldn't fire into life. (Had to cycle to work - better for health anyway ) Motor turns over (slowly), but makes "wheezing/whirring" kind of noise. Checked a/c belt, and this appears ok (i.e unbroken). I couldn't check further as was by myself and could turn over motor while watching belt, etc. I have had similar problem with Nissan Maxima in past and it was the "diodes" in the altenator causing noise and non starting of car. I am looking at checking fuses when I get home this afternoon, and hopefully will be able to ceck if a/c and altenator are turning. Any suggestions as to likely problem? I realise it is difficult to suggest anything with scanty info, but would like to get ideas to try, or gather more information, when I'm not running late for work. Cheers

Radiator in excellent condition - surplus due to upgrade to 6 cyl after fan clapped out and cooked motor. Is on Trade Me auction # 202537984. Will sell to Bimmersport member for $50. Prefer to be collected from Howick. PM or 021 633 093