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Lucan

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Posts posted by Lucan


  1. I'm doing the same thing in my PFL - bought a FL tank so I could move to a single in tank pump, but sure it could be done without going to that degree?

    I've read that FL tanks use a siphon system internally rather that the cross pipe which somehow is an improvement? That and the pipe diameter Troy mentioned are the main reasons I bought the whole tank (plus to avoid starvation issues and that I found one cheap)

    Wont be looking at it til Xmas when I have time off work though, so if you finish before then let us know how you get on!


  2. On 8/19/2019 at 11:51 AM, Mad_Max said:

    Just a thought as I had it happen in my old 280ZX many years ago, it could also be the input shaft bearing on the gearbox, it had the same symptoms. Knocking rattle when in neutral that would go away when the clutch pedal was pressed in enough. Boss drained the gearbox, found metal chunks come out of it. We put new gear oil in it and I kept driving it lol, waiting for the day the gearbox blew up........ but it never did.......

    Might be a simple check to drain the box and check the oil, see if it's something let go inside the gearbox?

    Will look into this, been kept busy at work so haven’t had a chance to investigate further.


  3. 1. Will do my best to check crank float with everything assembled, clutch in/out while someone measures vibration damper clearance the best way?

    Reading forums are leading me to believe its potentially the clutch fork, may need to check what TO bearing I've got installed. 

    2. Need to warm car up without the trans on to verify - which is easier than pulling whole engine to check the thrust bearing at least, which was my initial worrying thought.

    3. Confirm TO bearing height, I have a spare E21 323 bearing for my M20 fly onto M52 conversion somewhere I'll compare with, otherwise will need to figure out how to space out everything out further ?


  4. Posted this on the BM Facebook page but looking for good advice too...

    m30b35 - second engine now. (Took last out for exact same reason) -  have a rebuilt m30 spare now *sigh

    runs perfect cold, ones warmed up a tick/knock appears. At crank speed. Can’t identify the source despite checking over and again up on the hoist? Sounds like the lower front cover area though! Now, finger pressure on clutch pedal, noise goes away progressively til clutch pedals in 10mm or so. Bare in mind same issue with last engine.

    clutch noise traveling through crank?

    clutch pushing crank forward enough for expanded x (unknown part) to miss whatever’s touching?

     

     


  5. Hey team, 

    on the hunt for a manual M20 g240 driveshaft (320i, maybe 323i)

    Possibly a 4cyl g240 since I could have it cut down but would need to be justifiably cheaper as a result!

    pm or drop a reply and I’ll check back regularly

    cheers

    Lucan


  6. 12 hours ago, Mad_Max said:

    Do you know what the overall length of the driveshaft is? I've got one here that I think (from memory) came from en E30 318 with a 245? box. Might've been a 240 box. I can't remember exactly which one sorry.

    Yea can measure mine up this weekend to check? Pm length maybe?

    if it’s longer cutting down is cheaper too!


  7. 5 hours ago, hunter said:

    Some temp stand ins mate. Style 65 reps, unfortunately square offset (et18, I discovered on collection) but after a clean up should look ok for when I eventually get around to refurbishing the style 42s. 

    I may sell them off after I clean them up lol we'll see. 

    Drove past you on the way up from the park down the road today as you were loading up? didn’t realize you were a member!


  8. I used a similar expanding foam product to fix my ACS front lip on the E36 after I drove over it. Worked a treat!

    Put 90% of the front end back together over the weekend, replaced smashed/cracked fog lights in the process.

    18BB5BF4-AD0A-4294-9D69-B3D1CD1B813C.thumb.jpeg.70d3512ff4b7f2b9ecfb64c83f4e2e22.jpeg

    New 635i radiator for the E30 arrived today! Fitted and warmed up the engine before finding various leaks from sensors etc...worst being from the thermostat housing so rad will have to come back out again to get the housing off and resealed :(

    CED6B475-F663-4884-952D-301DC39D6B99.thumb.jpeg.b1e608f6d78b4795f3d8354b117b8ee9.jpeg

    • Like 1

  9. Looking for some advice, going to build my own exhaust to keep funds open for other repairs/upgrades on the E30.

    Dont want an obnoxiously loud setup and have the following available to use:

    3.2 E36 M3 Muffler

    E36 328i complete exhaust from headers to muffler (probably won’t need)

    Will buy piping/bends as required.

     

    Idea at present: as the M3 muffler has dual inlet 2.25” pipes I’m leaning towards 2 y sections, 1 after the headers and 1 pre-muffler. With 2.5” center section to keep it simple and reduce weight.

    I don’t see any real benefit to a dual exhaust? Yea?

     

     

     


  10. Dropped the old diff out of my E30 last night, took a while to figure out the ratio stamped (40:11)was the same as the LSD (3.64) I have waiting to go in!

    Seriously considering buying diff studs before I reinstall incase I ever have to remove again - so difficult compared to an E36/39!!

     

    Raided Zebra today and picked up a mint FL nose/grill panel & bootlid from an E36 coupe and a Barina steering linkage for the E30.

     

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