Surge

Not sure if this will be much help but it's worth checking out...

There is a connector below the intake manifold on the facelift cars, it's called the C191 connector - the injectors (1-3, 4-6) and the two temperature sensors (one for the ECU and one for the temp guage on the dash) go to it. This is known to cause all sorts of intermittent issues due to the plug getting rusted up and causing poor connections. Apparently a factory fix was to cut a hole in the boot so water could not pool up in it.

Bit of a guide here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198461

If the ECU temperature sensor isn't getting a signal it runs the injectors every rotation which should only occur when the engine is cold resulting in increased fuel usage. That and the injector wires having poor connections can also cause all manner of driveability issues.

It's worth opening it up (rotate the plug) and check the condition of it. If it's rusty as hell, try to clean up the pins or alternatively cut it out completely and hard wire it.

If that's not the case, check the condition of the temperature sensors - on the thermostat housing, front of the engine one's blue, one's black (check resistance... google 'e30 temp sensor resistance' to find appropriate values). They do wear out over time.

Finally, I'm guessing you've thoroughly checked for vacuum leaks or a split intake boot? They can crack rather awesomely in the middle between the ribs, meaning you can't see the damage until you pull the boot around to see between the ribs.

All up and running now on the Motronic 1.3 (cheers Jon for the ECU + Motor) - was a relatively easy conversion. Running the pre-fl AFM with no noticeable issues. The only thing on the new loom that had to be done was cut the ring terminal off the starter wire and convert it to a spade terminal (to suit the older starter motor) and change the oil level sensor for a facelift one.

I removed the notorious plug below the intake manifold (the one that goes to the injectors + temp sensors) and hardwired it - apparently these plugs can cause all sorts of problems over time with water getting into them.

Tach wire came off c101 engine side to c104 under the drivers side - black wire (ran a wire from the plug to under the dash, a more elegant solution would be to pull the wire thru near the computer and cut off half the legnth). Other than that the c101 plugged straight across less a few unneeded things.

Drives good now going from a 325i auto with an extremely worn cam resulting in an engine that never idled without massive vibrations to a 325i manual. I replaced all shift linkage parts with new items and put new fluid in the box, it makes a huge difference to the shifts - nice and easy with no slop. I used a solid clutch line (no factory rubber near the slave cylinder) instead of the factory item - makes the clutch much more responsive than other e30's I've been in - all at a cost of $22.00 for the line with fittings, which you can bend yourself.

After a crank angle sensor to suit a 88+ 325i. Mine's got a stuffed wire coming from it, so any replacement would need to at least be in reasonable condition.

PM me if you have one with a price.

Cheers,

The above muffler might be horribly loud. I had one like that on a car I wrecked. Sounds good, but very vocal - might attract the attention of the local constabulary.

After exhaust and intake, dollar for dollar an aftermarket computer usually provides the best gains.

http://www.guardroll.com/

Used him to do my E30. Well worth it, can do flaring or just inner lip rolling. With the flaring it gets the guards out but you'll prob need to see a panel beater to finish them off and re-paint (if you're going for a big stretch) - the idea is he gets the guards stretched out and useable, at a cheaper rate of paying a panel beater to knock it out and do the whole job.

I used a threaded rod cut down into equal lengths, locktited in for now - need to pop a weld in at the back of the hub to stop them loosening when you are removing them. If you're doing it this way go to a supplier who can give you the strength of the rod.

Tyres2go are very good if you end up going there.

Excellent, cheers dude. I'll just test the AFM when I get the ECU I guess, unless anyone knows 100% that it's different. Agree about the crank sensor being on the front of the motor... Much easier. Does 1.3 just rely on that (+the spark lead sensor) I notice my old auto has 2 sensors in the bellhousing.

Link or MS will be installed when cash starts flowing again... I'm a big fan of replacing old electronics!

Established well and proper that the issues above were the ones you all raised. Converting to motronic 1.3 now.

I've got the loom off a fl-320i, sourcing the ECU now..

Few Q's: Is the O2 sensor required? (for 1.3) Will an pre-facelift TPS and airflow meter work? (they do plug in)

Cheers guys.

Can't help you regarding the prop shaft differences.. but I do have one lying around (think it was off an e30 manual, 320i) you could test out and buy if it fitted. I'm in the CBD. PM me.

Yankus you drive a 1951 Austin Devon.

I mean come on bro.

Interior lights, indicators and fuel injection really is a bit showy offy.

Just put a manual in place of the automagic on my 86 325i (and a new motor) and can't get the thing to start up for the life of me. No fuel or spark so leaning towards poked ECU/relay or lacking required signal inputs. The auto box had 2 connectors which connected below the intake manifold which remain unplugged, on all the conversion info I've seen on the net dealing with these plugs is not required (or mentioned). I've heard some Getrag 260s have sensors on the bellhousing for that rely on outputs from the flywheel. My gearbox does not have these. Where does an early m20 get the crank position signal from? I have one sensor at the front of the motor clipped in but not sure as to whether that's it.

Just commenting on how easy and affordable it's been lately sourcing difficult parts direct from the dealer. I ended up getting some shift linkages for a very good price (especially given the difficulty in finding some in the country and the endless phone calls to other parts suppliers..)

Today for comparison I went to autobend to get some exhaust studs (40mm - nothing special..) - $6.50 from them, .82cents each from the dealer ex-Auckland overnight. Crazy difference really.

While I appreciate that some parts will inevitably be much more worth while sourcing from the wreckers, locally a lot of the wreckers no longer carry e30 parts so I'm increasingly finding myself on the phone to the dealer first, before I hunt around elsewhere!

Just wondering what parts anyone on here has brought from BMW that they have been surprised with in terms of price, ease of supply etc...

As per the title. I have a mint facelift radiator off a m325i I can swap if you have something around.

I'm in CHCH.

I ended up getting the parts you have highlighted new from BMW for around $100. That was for the dowel pin, the tension bush, the washers and the bracket. Well worth buying it new in my opinion as you'll end up with a solid shifter. It's probably worth replacing the bush (number 2 on the diagram) too. The circlip 13 can be salvaged off an auto box as well. All those parts were ex-Auckland and took 3 days to receive.

Hey guys,

I've got a near new m325i radiator (off a face lift) which ideally I'd like to get into a pre-fl car + motor.

I've also got a spare facelift M20 motor + fl hoses + fl expansion tank too..

Just wondering what's involved in getting it all installed, I don't have a 2 e30's to compare the FL and the Pre-FL radiator setup.... If anyone knows - would be much appreciated. Otherwise I'll look to swap this mint FL rad for Pre-FL one..

I've driven that when it was in CHCH. Was immaculate then, immaculate now! Congrats on your purchase.

Not digging it at all.

Chains front and back. You need chains on the driven wheels and the steering. FWDs are usually fine with just chains on the front (providing you don't mind a bit of slide..)

Still haven't managed to get these parts. Ideally after the ones in the first photo brent posted.

Cheers,

Off the top of my head VH has larger valves, chippable computer and a few other things...

There's a bit of a rant about them here: Not too informative really.. http://forums.nicoclub.com/vh45-so-much-be...uz-t310375.html

RB25DETs aren't bad if a bit overpriced - good aftermarket support for them. Wouldn't bother with an RB20DET, too old. SR20DET out of an S15 might be ok...

The problem with BMW V8s is finding manual gearboxes that aren't worth more than the engine itself... M10 turbo? Apparently they are tough as hell from the factory - throw a computer in it + a huge turbocharger... away laughing..

That's mine here, so it looks like the later one.

Bump if anyone has these parts.

Cheers Brent. It's for an E30 325i. Not sure on what year the box is. Was there a difference in the G260?

After a Getrag 260 shifter linkage (from the gearstick to the box) and the bit that the gearstick sits into.... That connects to the gearbox.

If anyone has these it would be much appreciated!

Please PM me.

Cheers for the replies and the pics. I'll check the state of the camshaft when I'm back in at work and see how it looks compared to the one you posted Brent.