badman

the idea of an engine swap for an m44 sounds good, just one question will the computer for the m42 run that or will i have to get one to run that engine? im asuming i'll need to get a diffrent one to run it

im an considering a rebuild on the M42. after carefull consideration over an engine swap that i had lined up.(due to expense).. so maby turbo the stock motor as turbo, intercooler and know how all avalibale to me for free car is 1992 318is. the engine has 310,000km So this is the start. any info on parts, prices and where to get them would be alot of help i am in Dunedin. i can do all the work myself. I talked to bmw parts and they told me to pull out a piston and get the number off it first. i would rather have all parts on hand for when the motor is pulled as it would be easyer to do over a weekend than over a month, or 6 waiting for ordered parts. i just plan to do the basics, pistons, rings and bearings. maby more after inspection of valves and crank and head also where can i get the steal pipe that the thirmostat sits in/against. my plastic one is chipped at the end.. water pump and oil pump would proberly be a good idea to but he'll see how they look. as the tappits will get a little noisy sometimes then gose away again. parts list, prices would be a good start and way other suggestions are welcome but i dont want do go over expense on something thats not worth the time of $ eg forged pistons. as i gather a couple of thousand for a rebuild and remap should cover it

well after getting the car and owning it for a couple of weeks i decided it was to ruff so needed some TLC.. also it is a 318IS, not very good for the hills of dunedin so it needs some more power under the hood as well. after alot of studying and info hunting i decided to go with a 1JZ conversion. but it wouldnt be cheap. and having a RB30 in the shed i am thinking of throwing that in there with a T03/4 on the side. the car handles like a dream with AC supsension. so here is the beginning of the long and aginision project to be: after some time it ended up like this and is now sent off to get a gloss black PS the badges are off the car now. future updates to come with the new pics and update on the engine conversion

i am after these parts perferibaly in black but not nessary for my e36 coupe -carpet -door cards -roof lining and maby -black dash -black center console -black rear part behind back seats. the interiour currently is that sandy yellow colour and the carpet is totaly ruined.. infact the car was pretty badly beaten up when i got it. has just been painted black last week so now i want the inside to look as nice as the outside

could be keen on drivers side head light. and indicator if it will fit a 318 coupe

i'v read that the fuel sender or something under the passenger side are prome to wear and get hear line cracks in them. its a small cone. if you follow your fuel lines im shore you'll see what i'm talking about. nothing some silicon cant fix if you dont want to fork out for a new part. i had a fuel smell atone point and found there was a very small leak atthe top seal where injector 4 sat against the fuel rail.

i'd be interisted in something for a E36

problem fixed. i feel like an idiot. after reading the previous reply asking if there were rubber bungs under the studs i decided to double check and what did i find.really thin nuts on the studs wound right down so they were touching the housing. simple brought them off the housing and connected the wires and wolah. now the battery charges. after having to buy a new battery its all fixed. well mostly.

no i didnt try to conect the wires in revirse. and did not try earthing the alternator while the engine was running. if i have B+and D+ hooked up and battery all connected then just touch the brown (earth) on the chasse it will spark with out the engine running. there are no insulators under the B+ or D+ just little copper nuts. yes there is rubber on the brackets thet hold the altinator as well. Are there ment to be plastic washers or something under where the wires connects? I think my next step if i have no luck soon will be to take the alternator to an automotive sparkie to have checked.

i followed my wiring back and the blue wire goes into the loom and i cant follow it past the big plastic box that all the wired run into sitting above the engine. the red wire goes from the battery to the starter motor, connect to that then continues to the alternator. i have pulled it out and taken a pic

i have these wires connected just as you said direct battery to B+ and blue wire to D+. but the wire that comes out of the alternator is more like orange but maybe once it was brown. would it help if i put up a picture. also the orange wire that comes out the alternator is live. as i found out when it touched an earth and it sparked. to add to this note even though i'm not getting any charge there is no light coming up on the dash showing the alternator is not working.

after reassembling the 318is i have come to a hickup. the car runs but im not getting any charge from the altinator. to be honest i don't know where the wire goes now there are the two terminals, D+ and B+. i have direct power to B+ and to D+ i have a smaller blue wire running to. now i have a red thicker wire that comes out the back at the bottom of the altinator but i have no idea where is goes. could this be the reason i arn't getting any charge? dose any one know where it goes or if i have wired the wiring backwards? it isn't an earth as i tried it and it kills the whole system and i don't get any reds on the dash. the battery is fine, and was told by the previous owner that everything ran fine before it was dismantaled

i have been googling for ages but arn't having much luck. can anyone send me in the right direction to find a manual online. yes i could buy one for $55 but it wont get used that much. am having problems with the electricals under the bonnet. also think main fuse blew as have on lights coming up on dash any more. and need to find what nipples on the upper inlet manifold are cooling ones and where the hoses go from each. that is the three nipples in the middle. the one at the front is obvious.

i should of mentioned it is already manuel. thank you for the type of 1jz i'd be after i was trying to work out if it would be a rear, mid or front sump needed. i have found some more info to read up on here http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=775308 i'll keep researching and updating this thread

after the recent purchess if an e36 318is i have decided that next year i will do a conversion. the 1.8l dosnt have any power compeared to what im used to. and coming from a toyota background i already have alot of knowledge of the 1jzgte engine. i was considering a 2jzgte or a 1uz. but seems best bang for buck is the 1jzgte. they are a very good engine and can make tremendious amounts of power if done right. i'd be doing pretty much all the work myself as i feel im equipt for it. so that said i have been researching and hunting for all the info i can find. if anyone can add anything to help with the research please add it here. i'd highly dout the bmw diff will be usable with this engine, dose bmw have a larger stronger diff that would be able to bolt up. how hard will it be to fit in a supra diff and drive shaft if need be. and from there im asuming i'll need to use diffrent hubs as another asumption bmw axels will not work with a supra diff if i have to take that parth? the process seems aboit like this. pull stock engine, gearbox, lumb, driveshaft. then things get abit more tricky where placing in the 1JZ, connection the driveshaft to the diff and gearbox to find where the engine is going to sit. have a mate who is an engineer come and get what he needs to make some engine mounts. mount engine, plug in all lomb, connect to ecu, do exsaust side if things. thats it in a very simple plan with out going into any detail. and with out knowing of any of the obsticasl i'm going to run into if you would also like to go into detail about any aspects feel free to do so