Beeker2

Went for a plumbed fire unit, 4lt

Sump plate

> Thick 6mm Marine(stronger) alu

> T45 steel hoop bracket up to chassis rails. Removable by way of a plate which is welded to the chassis with nuts inserted in that

> Front of guard has a hole for a spigot which is attached to the jack, allowing for secure jacking.

> rear is attached to the X brace

> All bolts recessed

Can do a tank and pump

Proper M3 3.0 Pump ?

I assume its different to std.

How many Km;s on it?

bump

Vanos parts, in prep for that refresh.

Hi Beeker.

Looks good.

A few questions:

Will you weld the A pillars of the cage to the A pillars of the car (probably with the windscreen out)? You can do the same with the B pillar and possibly roof bars.

I assume the seat won't be too close to the tunnel because you need to get the lap belt into it?

Why attach to the side of the rear strut mount rather than the top - or is there other reinforcing there?

My understanding is that we'll weld it to the frame wherever we can, especially the A Pillar. This has been proven to be the strongest method to build a cage.

There is an additional A pillar support bar yet to be installed.

The belt eye bolts are normally installed just behind the seat, so that'll still work.

The rear bars mounting to the strut is part of custom cages FIA design. They know they stuff. Yes its reinforced.

Beeker, you may want to double check the size of the cage footings. The engineer and I got pulled back by MSNZ on the floor plan size of ours when we built the mx5 turbo and had to make them bigger, yours currently look our first version....might just be an illusion but double check the reg's just in case. I think they recently changed the rule or changed the method of measuring them....

We submitted photos as we went so it wasn't a huge deal but had we put everything back together, painted it etc it would have been a serious pain.

Also, would you mind saying what brand and where you sourced the seat mounts?

That solves a particular problem I am facing.....I want to leave the standard mounts in and be able to swap race seat for oem seat as required....these sound ideal.

The cage is a FIA cage from Custom Cages in the UK. It will be certified by them under FIA rules and then cross certified by MANZ. As such, NZ rules don't directly apply.

The seat mounts are sold by a few difference people, but i got them from these guys:

http://www.driftworks.com/driftworks-bmw-e36-and-e46-seat-frame-316-318-325-328-m3-seat-rail.html

Cage is getting there, a few bars yet to come.

Incurred a delay with the need to import some specialist T45 MIG welding wire, which then turned out to be out of stock even in the UK.

E36 specific seat rails turned up from the UK. They leverage the OEM mounts and also push the seat hard against the tunnel.

Saves allot of $$ with custom fabrication.

Daniel managed to break an axle on the weekend

m3 rear end required ?

I'm looking for some front Camber PLUS Castor plates for the E36 M3.

It'll be for Tarmac Rally, so they must be STRONG.

Any feedback on these:

http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_4_155&products_id=28

or

http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=143/CA=184

(the hybrid street/race one which is a more compliant than the hard race version)

or

http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=700/CA=249

I have the Pro BT in my Audi. I get to keep and choose between CD as well as MP3.

The quality between plug and buetooth is the same.

I personally believe that the Dension audio quality when compared to the CD/Radio is slightly worse, but quite acceptable.

I removed and disabled the Phone hands free feature on mine as the mic/voice quality was not that flash. My Blueant is better.

It was also a pain how you had to have the Dension selected on the radio first, prior to hands free use.

Where is the cheapest place to buy genuine BMW parts, including freight to NZ (if not in NZ)?

The bushes can look fine, but be poked,

Bingo.

eg My bushes passed a BMW dealer pre inspection, yet 500km later when i replaced my RTAB the centres were completely seperated from the rubber.

Update

Started with the roof repair as it had a aftermarket sunroof in it which slightly damaged the roof when it was removed.

After replacing the cut roof beam and cutting down the sunroof cassette to reglue to the sunroom surround its now got its strength back.

Next the cage. Ran into a snag where you are supposed to use a special MIG wire for T45 steel. Most NZ fabricators don't bother and use the std stuff and even that passes the weld test machine they use for FIA cert, but wanted it done right so had to import some.

Also ordered Vanos spares ready for that rebuild.

Note the sunroof hole lip which was cut off the old aftermarket cassette and then glued back in place, ready for attaching the old sunroof panel

note the careful placement of the dashbar to allow for the ventilation to still work.

Also note how tight the cage is to the A pillar.

Two additional notes:

> try to stick with OEM bushes (or quality rubber), its more expensive fitted but you'll get a more OEM level of comfort, performance and reliability.

> Konis are great, but more people can rebuild or revalve the bilsteins.

my experience only!

Unless you want a hard ride just refresh the bushes and the shocks (I would recommend Bilsteins, but there is a heap of options).

bump

Nice

Ill bet they are due. No service history for it. Will check with BMW for costs when i can be bothered. Not making any bad noises so might just leave it for now.

I'm told there is a specialist tool required to change the shims, and of course you need a variety of spare shims to tune the clearance.

In auckland Jerry Clayton have both but are quoting 5>8 hours ! Assuming adjustment needed.

What I don't understand is the benefits. I assume some power gains are available if it's out, but what's typical here? Is there other benefits ?

yeah, it hits 181KW. Not sure why it doesnt register, but hey, 179KW is sweet.

~180wkw is good.

Mine did 172wkw (torque dyno), but was overdue for a service and has a tired vanos.

Nastas did 178wkw after his vanos service (not sure who's dyno)

I'll dyno mine again after my vanos refresh (prepping now for this).

Have you checked you valve clearances?

Thats what i used, and as your car is very close in production date to mine i would say it should be, but as above, check with RealOEM or a dealer to be sure (dont want you to order the wrong bits!).

Except for the O rings (recommended change), realoem says the same PN list as yours.

Parts used during my vanos rebuild. This is for my car, some parts may vary so please check via RealOEM or your dealer to be sure.

Beisan Systems seal kit BS031

Beisan Systems Anti-rattle kit BS032

Beisan System Anti-rattle tools BS094

The following parts are from BMW

Vanos solenoid O-Rings (S62, improved design over S52 and direct replacement)

11367830828 x2

11367830829 x2

Vanos filter

11361401973

07119963073

Vanos solenoid cover gasket

11311318323

Vanos cover bolts

07129905121 x4

Vanos intake piston nut

11361313170

Valve cover gasket

11121404358

11121317386 x2

Oil cap

11121716993

And the bolts i had to replace due to rounded heads (hopefully wont be needed by anyone else)

07129903807 (bolts)

07119931044 (washers)

Be aware most parts are Ex Germany (all Beisan parts are Ex USA), so order them beforehand.

So i've decided to get Kayne Barrie and his new Ex Bella tech to do my Vanos refresh.

I need to order the bits in.

Can i assume i need everything you ordered above, except for the oil cap and rounded bolts?

update please

MIGHT BE BEST TO TELL US WHAT YOU WANT

Ideally complete suspension assembles for all corners (excl brakes).

radiator

maybe fuel tank and pump

Must be exact E36 M3 3.0, as we have no time to adapt spares in the targa service arears (field, literally).