alijanjan

Hi guys Having a problem with my e90 where there is a squeaky noise coming from the rear of the car but only while reversing, goes away as soon as I start to go forward. Anyone had this noise, any help is appreciated It sounds exactly like this youtube video https://youtu.be/3Dyi3X5bpmU

Hi all I'm having problem with my e46 N42B20 again where I get a maf sensor fault which in turn puts the transmission in limp mode I scanned it with inpa and it comes up with 2783 CDKLM hot film mass sensor and says signal over threshold old shorted to positive, I have a brand new oem maf sensor, I've already checked for Vacuum leaks, ccv is good. I've taken inlet manifold out and checked for common leaks. Couldn't see any, dipstick oring also ok I have pulled the two signal wires out of maf and ecu and ran a pair of cables directly and still the same fault 5v and 12v wires at the sensor read ok I'm at a loss and was hoping someone can help here. If I was still in Auckland I would have definitely gone to Glenn by now, Worth mentioning that the vvt faults are also present, learn limit necessary, Eccentric sensor but these have been like this for couple of years I have also somehow got engine oil wicked into the ecu connectors which I have cleaned with contact cleaner ( I had an oil leak from filter housing that had the wiring harness soaked in oil, but fixed now) Secondary air pump was also noisy and when I went to check it, the pressure hose snapped. I have temporarily fixed it until new hose comes in Sorry about the long post but having no luck fixing the problem This same maf sensor code came up 1-2 years ago when I checked everything but didn't find anything back then but the fault went away for long time, 30-40k driven since then and now it's back Any help with be greatly appreciated Thanks

Hi I have recently been getting maf sensor code and consequently can torque interface 82 I've checked for Vacuum leaks and found a small one to fuel filter, fixed and made no difference Then went and replaced the MAF and still comes up with the code so I took the inlet manifold out to check today and found so much oil dripping out of it, cleaned it as much as I could CCV seems to be the only place that can cause this, being a suspect but My ccv is relatively new as well as all the hoses, checking the oil filler cap while engine is running and I do get a slight Vacuum Maf error only comes up after the engine is warm and been running for more than 20 min but then it would stay for the rest of the day Anyone can shed some light on this? Thanks

So the oxygen sensor codes have all magically disappeared I'm thinking maybe to do with the adaptation as I couldn't reset them after installing the new sensors I have driven the car around 2k since the last reset and they have not come back yet

Thanks for the reply Glenn I've looked and cannot find any obvious leak, unless it's the CCV. I've checked the CCV hoses and all seem intact ( as far as I can see without removing the intake manifold). Should I be looking at replacing the CCV kit? The car has done 150k The engine runs very smooth however, cold and warm

Hi all I used to get 2CA2 AND 2CA3 codes on my N46B20 e90 so I changed both pre cat oxygen sensors (it was a lot easier than I expected). Now with the new sensors I don't get those codes any more but I get couple of new codes. I'm getting 2C45 and 2C46. Also sometimes getting 2D11 and 2D12. Never used to get these codes before replacing the sensors While I was replacing the pre cat sensors, I unplugged the post cat ones and gave the plugs a clean with contact cleaner The new sensors were Bosch ones Anyone had similar issues? Any help is appropriated Thanks

Thanks for the response Andrew Mine is Ate units with part number 6759073 and 6759075

I know its few years but do you know if the part number has to be an exact match? all units that I can find on eBay, have a different part number to mine (the last two digits are different) thanks

Hi all Having the infamous trifecta lights coming up First time came up a year ago and went away till recently. Now the lights stay on Scanning the module I get 5DF5 internal failure. I took the abs module out and resolderred all the points that I could, made no difference I have heard a wheel sensor could also throw this fault, when I scan and read the data, they seem ok and I get individual wheel speed, as well as the steering angle reading Also, sometimes the lights come on after few hundreds meters of driving in which case the abs actually works when I slam on the brakes, Could this be anything other than the module? Also if going down the path of a new module, does it have to be exact same part number? There are a lot of Ate units on ebay but they all have different numbers. Mine is a Ate asc unit, 6759075 on the controller and 6759073 on the pump. I know I have to program the Vin number but not sure if the part numbers have to be exact match or not Any help will be appreciated Thanks

Thanks All for the comment, as Olaf said the key is shell m1375.4 which I couldn’t find in penrite or nulon range cheers

Thanks for the reply I've got the kit now as well as the mechatronic sleeve My usual bmw parts store has this oil which seems to meet the specs, $20 per litre so not too bad Motul Multi ATF Automatic Transmission Fluid - 1L Specification: Dexron IIIG/IIIH/IID/IIE, ZF 03D/04D/14A, Esso LT 71141, Shell M-1375.4, ZF Lifeguard 6

Hi all I am planning on changing the transmission fluid on my 320i 2006 E90 as a maintenance task otherwise there seem to be nothing wrong with the transmission, it shifts very smooth i believe its a ZF GA6HP19Z i am buying the pan/filter but am not too sure on the type of fluid to use. any help would be much appreciated Thanks

True I've just finished putting it back together and test driven it, all seems ok. will have to give it few Ks to see how it goes, seems ok for now ended up changing the valve stem seals, timing chain and tensioner/guide and bottom hose on the CCV (was left from when i changed the CCV as i was supplied with the wrong bottom hose) I think this is enough preventative maintenance for the car considering the age and KMs Thanks for your helps/comments

Around 240k

Old vs new seals

Hi Nathan I have had a scan through your thread, Wow and I can feel your pain, what a bummer I will attempt on replacing the chain, tensioner and guide. I will be looking for the little tool to undo the central bolt on the crankshaft, or is it ok to undo it only by locking the flywheel? While I have her opened up, any suggestions on anything else to do. I had replaced the CCV few months ago but was supplied the wrong hose where it connects to dipstick, now that I have the correct one, I will replace it at the same time She has been consuming some oil, it has gotten worse and lately was drinking around a liter of oil every 500k, She had also started making some noise only on slight load Ali

Thanks Glenn, You are a legend My next question would have been the torque settings which is already in the diagram The item 1 in the diagram, I've read that it is under the starter motor. can i get to it from under the car or do i have to remove the inlet manifold to get to it? thanks

Hi all I'm in the middle of replacing valve stem seals on my e46 N42B20 engine. So far things have gone ok, I have replaced 12 out of 16 seals Soon I will have to put it back together and set the timing. I am looking for the location of flywheel lock pin. I've got a tool set for timing which includes the cam shafts locking brackets and flywheel locking pin but having hard time finding the location, any help will be appreciated While I am at it, i am thinking about replacing the chain, tensioner etc, when i got to the chain, the top plastic cover/guide for the chain was broken into 3-4 pieces which make me wonder if the chain had jumped a tooth. lately the engine has been very hesitant when accelerating. Any tips will be highly appreciated, what are the symptoms of incorrect timing? Thanks in advance

The CCV hoses looked ok but could it be the oil separator valve itself?

This is a short video I just took If it idles for 30 sec or so it will smoke as much as it does when the video just starts

And roughly what sort of costs are we looking at to replace the seals, I know it can differ but just want a rough idea in case this thing with the dealer doesn't work out and I end up doing it. His mechanic is not a bmw mechanic which worries me as well Cheers

Thanks Glenn, I know these valve stem seals are very common but would the valve seals cause some oil usage as well specially if it smokes this much, 2000k and still shows full oil I will try to take a short video today and post it Cheers

Hi Guys I know its been 4 years but just in case someone else have the same issue. I have found the problem and fixed the issue, it is so strong that it can now blow you away, have to make sure sit belts are on before starting the AC :-) after so many times of pulling the blower motor out thinking may be the evaporator is blocked/dirty or something similar i thought i replace the blower motor just in case. I started looking online for a new motor when I realized the cable on my motor comes out from the wrong direction compared to a DIY i was watching on youtube after checking and taking in out again, it turned out the motor was put it the wrong way meaning it would turn the wrong way and blow up instead of blowing down through the evaporator. took it out, turned it 180 degree and put back together and now it works great. very strange but someone must have put it in the wrong way at some stage. the strange part is that from the history i got when i bought the car, it seem to always been serviced by BMW until i bought it. also there was nothing in the service history of anything done on the AC system Maybebe this can help someone with the same issue cheers

Hi guys Having trouble with my E90 N46b20 engine. It blows whitish (maybe with a blue tint) smoke if the engine is warm and idling and then i give it a blip. Doesn't seem to smoke under load. Doesn't seem to be consuming oil. Oil indicator still shows full after about 2k of driving. Looses some coolant but I believe it has a leak somewhere in the system as I can smell coolant from under the bonnet and driver side but not from the exhaust. Also few times i have seen few drop of coolant on the ground just under the catalytic convertor which I am trying to figure out what it is. The water on the ground is only if i drive it for about 20 min to work and then leave it there for few hours. After driving for about 2k, i probably only added a quarter of litre of coolant. would a leaky head gasket not cause more coolant loss? This link shows info on what might be the leak http://upgr8s.blogspot.com.au/2012/0...lant-leak.html I was also reading on some forums where people were mentioning they had lots of condensation in their exhaust, few litters of water coming out of the old exhaust when they took the old one out in order to install a performance exhaust on theirs It is strange as i have an e46 as well which consumes oil constantly but i don't see any smoke out of the exhaust on that one on any condition, where the e90 smokes a lot but no loss of oil or much coolant, i was suspecting a head gasket but the oil is nice and clean so is the coolant, no oil/water mix anywhere. i also talked to dealer i bought my car from and he sent me to his mechanic who was telling me it cannot be the head gasket as the engine runs perfectly fine, no misfire at all, no rough idling in the morning etc. he is now looking for a replacement second hand engine for me!!! The car has done 115k and i only had it for 6-8 weeks which is the reason i was talking to the dealer about it CCV hoses seems to be all good, not collapsed and not even brittle (I had done a CCV on my e46). i was thinking maybe the valve seals but then she does not consume oil. I have also scanned it with no code coming up any help would be appreciated, I wish i knew someone like Glenn here in Sydney to take the car to, I still suspect the head gasket but not sure. Cheers

Just an update on my case 10 days ago I changed the fluid and the filter, about 0.5 litter extra oil went in as well compare to what I got out of it While doing this, I disconnected the main plug from transmission, it looked fine but I sprayed contact cleaner in it anyway Since then I have driven about 1000 km and the light has not come back on at all, everything seems ok and all is working well. Hopefully it will stay this way Thanks for all replies Cheers