alijanjan

After couple of days of driving I found out that if I start the car then put gear on "N" and rev up the engine to around 3k couple of times befor I put it on "D" and drive, the transmission light would not come on at all. Have tried it a lot, never comes on if I do it Any idea? By the way I got the battery place to test the battery as well, nothing wrong with it

After last night that the light was coming on every single time (tried more than 10times), I left the battery disconnected overnight and had a test drive today before going to work. The light never came back on!!!

Had a test drive again and the transmission light comes on every time as soon as speed goes over 25-30k/h, i scanned it again and this time comes up with code P1024 the car has gone crzy , forgot to mention that the fuel gauge also acts funny recently (last few weeks), i drive the car for 400k on a tank and still shows almost full

Hi Glenn Only if i was still in Auckland. i would have already seen you. the problem is if i want to take it somewhere, i have to drive to Melbourne which is 300k drive. not sure how safe it is for the transmission to drive this much, what do you think. the other problem is i can probably find someone in Melbourne who has a scanner (just searching for bimmer mechanics on the net), but wouldn't be sure about having the brain , things are ok here but i miss NZ heaps and really like to come back if i could Cheers

It's N42 engine Today when I went for a short drive, eml light also stayed on with transmission light. After switchin off the engine and back on, it went away But today transmission light kept coming on every time when I speed over 30k. I tried few times turning engine off for few seconds, every time light went away but came back on when I speed over 30k Next time I go for a drive, I will try and see if it comes on when I go around a corner

Thanks for your reply I think I know where the cam sensors are, will check the connections etc The code keeps on coming back, so there must be something wrong there As for the transmission, It shifts gear even when light is on but I think only second and third gear and its jerky, when the light is off the gear change is smooth and nice Battery is only 6 month old and when the engine is running it measures around 13v I have read online how even an aftermarket head unit can cause it, but the car is 100% standard nothing has changed It has done around 180k, I am waiting for the filter kit to show up to change the fluid, have bought some dextron vi fluids too I have read few DIYs on fluid change, anything I need to be careful about? Where do I disconnec the cooler lines? In front of the radiator? Cheers

thanks forgot to mention, last few weeks the engine sometimes runs roughly for the few seconds after starting then goes to normal dont really think the code has anything to do with the tranny but i bought an aftermarket bmw scanner hopping to get a better reading, i have to drive 300k before i can get to a mechanic who may have a proper scanner to read the ecu while i am waiting for the new scanner, i scanned it again with the old one tonight and the P1031 code is back again (last time i had cleared it)

The transmission light on my e46 comes on intermittently and transmission goes to safe mode Then if I turn the engine off for a minute or so, it goes away When the light is of, transmission works perfectly, smooth an no problem at all I know there are a lot of threads about e46 transmission and confusing too Is it an electrical fault? How can it be mechanical where it works perfectly when light is off Any help? What should I check first? I'm also going to change transmission fluid anyway The car is 2002 and it has the gm box not the zf When I scanned it with my cheap obd cable it only had a p1031 code which I'm not sure what it is but don't think it's related The problem is I now live rural area in Australia and it's a 300k drive to get the car to anyone to look at who may have any experience on these cars any help is greatly appreciated Cheers

Hi GlennJust double checked, all seems ok

Just checked it, no leak

Hi Brent have checked them, almost brand new

AC blower on my new e46 isn't as powerful as my old e46, even when put on max fan speed still not much air coming out of the vents even on maximum still not enough to be useful, The fan does works as normal and makes all the right noises, its like the air is somehow escaping The final stage resistor is new and the fan seems to be running at max speed anyway ( and at constant speed) I tried all the stepping motors (5) and all seem to be working( all I did was checking to make sure they response to changes made on the climate control unit) unless they need to be calibrated some how My old e46 used to blow much more air ( while producing same noise) Any one had Sam problem? Everyone only talks about final stage resistor

Thanks for the reply can it be air in the system? how can i get rid of it? Actually i am the repairer cheers

is that the one which is attached to the auxiliary water pump? cheers

Good Day Guys Now that the car is all back together after the accident, the heater decided to blow only cold air, no matter what setting It was all ok before the accident Radiator was damaged in the accident I have been reading online about this and people talking about the auxiliary water pump and the electric valve etc, but in my case it just happenned after the accident collant level is ok any suggestions? really cold in the morning

Anyone having an e38 front bumper or the moulding pls

just emailed u

Hi guys had an accident and need headlights specially the driver side and driver side indicator driver front guard, front bumper and radiator anyone have any of these want to sell? the car is an early e38 cheers

Hi Guys As revealed today, my e38 has an unhappy diff that needs to be replaced Any one had a good second hand for sale?the car is an early e38 , the torque ratio 3.15 890 Cheers

I'm not too sure, will have to check, can this cause the problem?

Hi everyone I think I may need new rotors for my e38 What happens is as soon as I brake( specially if u don't brake that hard) the car shakes, quiet badly only when I'm driving over 80k The strange part however is that it only started doing it after I changed a tyre, double checked the balance, all ok Any thought? Cheers

Hi all So today as i was turning into the driveway, the car started making quiet loud knocking nose from the back wheels and with car shaking at each noise. it was like there was something stuck in the wheel ( i once had a car where the brake pads managed to come out of the place and making same sort of noise). Then i check the back wheels, jacking and removeing them, everything seems ok. then i went for a test drive and seems to be no noise anymore. it was much louder to be a stone or something Anyone had a similar problem? should i be worried about it? Thanks in advance

Thanks to Ray, all done today. the air flow meter was faulty, got it replaced and the car now runs much better, more power and smoother thanks mate for the great service and for the free scan

cool, thats great'is today ok? ill get the mirror at the same time

how much roughly are these?