BlowMyWhistle

Hi Y'all, I'm replacing the trans switch on my car, it's sticking again! Fair enough I put a used one in it last time, this time, new and only $50 delivered, onya ebay! But, how come some have different settings? Mines goes 'S' 'E' $ * for snow? Doesn't snow much round these parts... Seen some with an 'A', and an E34 I had 10 years ago had the 'S' & 'M' switches... I'd dearly love an 'M' mode, * snow's not much use in a freaking desert! I don't suppose it'd make a difference, buying a switch with an 'M' stead of a asterisk. Can this be changed with the trans programme DME? I'm looking at getting another one anyway. I asked once about getting one customised, but got dissed... I have a problem with the gear shift, in 'E' it changes 1,2,3, just like that, and you're driving at 30k's in 3rd gear. Also it ranges between solid lock and 4th or 5th and 4th? specially when you close behind another car, usually at about 80k's. I usually drive around town in 'S' mode, it holds the gear a lot longer, which I prefer. Won't change up when it's cold, til it hit's about 3k? Then jumps up to 2nd, after a minute it's fine. Nobody seems to know much about transmissions, an I don't want anybody experimenting on it... The German. (Peters Master Mechanic Rockingham) reckons he could tune it out, but I'm a bit reluctant to pay for theories... Can anyone give me a clue? Is it the trans itself? In which case I'll get a 6 speed from the states! Or just the DME? In which case I'll get a 6 speed from the states! I can get a DME used, same numbers, but will it be snow or Manual? I will do the 6 speed conversion, one day, but I'd like it to hold together for a bit longer, I'd hate to have to shell out $ for a repaired auto, given it'll take a while to get a Manual box from the US.. Thanks Y'all.

Got a new valve for it! Xfingers! Killer on these 42* days!

Cheers, new mono valve then.I don't see it as an old car. it's 18 years old, but still like a new car! Thought about trading to e39, but whats the difference?? Running it into the ground 300k's an counting!

Yeah, thanks for that, guess I'm putting my hand in my pocket...But what about the middle slide, how come that is not affected? Is that fresh air only, not thru the heater?

Hi Y'all, I know I've asked this before, but I been doing some research on it and need a quick answer... The 3 slides for the vents, footwell, cabin and screen... Would I be correct in assuming the central slide (cabin) is fresh air only? Not heat? The problem is I have unremitting HOT coming from the top and bottom vents only, unless I close them. The central slide is fine, but the only one I can have open without a blast of hot air. My sources tell Me that it could be a) both the motor controls behind the stereo, or the mono valve. I can get a new valve easily enough, but they not free, about $130 from USA, more on Pelicans... Had this once in an e34 in NZ, was just a fuse! I think it unlikely for both motors to similtaneously fail? It'd be nice to be able to have ful air con, specially days when it's 40*C The ear con will only blow cold thru the central vent, top open = hot, bottom open = hot. Regardless of the temperature controls. So why only top and bottom, not centre slide??

Take it to the shop! Looked up the heater diagrams, could be temp sensors, cables etc...Let somebody else do it, not as huge a job as I had envisioned perhaps? Cheers

Hi Y'all, My heater controls seem to be stuck in the hot position! I'm not sure when it started doing this, but the top slide for demist, runs hot, regardless of temp settings, cabin floor slide also is hot, same as.. Central slide allows cold air fine! Wtf? I had an e34 a long time ago in a land far far away (NZ) did this to me, blown fuse, heater stayed ON! This is getting to be a pain, can't demist or use aircon without the heater pumping out heat, can someone please give Me a lead in? Is it the solenoids or electrics?? 5 years this week I've had this car, not looking forward to another aussie summer with the heater going... Cheers Y'all.

Hi Y'all, just putting it out there, bought a house with a massive workshop. Got my E23 735 exec sitting on ramps in the front drive, paints, peeled, just taking the trans out to replace the rear seal. License that, already been over the pits, few minor things, bulbs, nuts and bolts stuff, not bad for a 26 yr old car! The plan is to strip it back, just the roof, bonnet etc where the clear coats peeled. Hope to get about $2K for it licensed, tried selling it as parts, or unlicensed, lots of interest, but dint wanna be left with a wreck. It's no beauty, but new motor and trans 70K's ago by PO. That's gunner fund my next expidition, retrieving my E28 from NZ. had quotes on freight for household stuff we left behind, and quotes for whole container, not a great deal of difference. I've been here in WA for 7 years now. Never meant to stay, so sent the E28 to a cylinder head specialist, cracked head... Mates rates turned into big $$$ once his wife got involved, so I spent best part of $2K on it. Can't give it away in NZ. So bring it over here, got a nice set of wheels for it, clean it up abit, should get couple $K for it. Cars are expensive over here! That will help, or mostly fund the transportation. Meanwhile, The E30 I bought my daughter about 4 years ago is going to my son. For his 19th, when He gets his P plates, I'm getting him; shorty headers, Bilstein sports, H&R or Eibach springs. Needs it badly, took it for a drive last week, wallows like a boat! So that will keep me busy for a while... Then; on my wish list is a blower and a 6 speed conversion for my 530. Kind of toying with the idea of picking up a cheap E28 or E30 and doing a turbo on it, plenty of turbo kits on the market, but have to make a $ on it. I've stripped an E30, sold every last little bit, stripped an e23, just for spares. Know my car inside out, so time to take on a challenge??

Hi Y'all, 'borrowed a DEM from a 540 e34, no different. Peake scan tool says code 1A Control Unit Supply. Have changed the relays.. Is there something else in the electrical line I can change/ look at/ tinker with?I tried starting it with a can of 'start ya bastard' almost fires, but not quite? Thought if it were fuel/ injectors it would fire using this? I've booked it in to the German (Peter's Master Mechanic Rockingham) Wednesday. Meanwhile I've changed the headlights, installed new foglights, sanded and painted the bumper. grill, and front panels, looks real nice, sitting in my garage... The DME donor car... He paid $500 for it (T boned) sold engine and trans to E38 $9K, not a bad days work! That's Andy Beemer Motor Works Maddington to any WA fans here!

yeah got it, went and checked the new part to go on, flipped the old bit out with a small screwdriver refitted the US strips, slightly shorter by about 7mm, at the wheel well end..

Hi Y'all. I am in the process of stripping the front of my car (while it's off the rd...) I got some new bumper strips, and headlights, foglights too. All the searches I do give me the US version, 'pry out the side lights, remove bumper strips etc. Looked at the write up on here, but can't see where to start? I'm not just gunner take to it with a crowbar! Do I need to take the front trim/ number plate mount out first? Fog lights was easy as, couple screws, nice crystal oems. Changing the bumper strips to USA style with side lights. But step 1, getting them off without wrecking anything...

Meh, everything else works, car's been having a holiday for a few months now, but all was fine before, no electrickle issues...PS Have u picked up that E28 yet?

Hi Y'all, I've been off the rd for near 6 months now. Was never in a hurry, blew the water pump, had to get help to get the engine fan off. Put it all back together and no go. Channged the petrol pump. No go. Changed the Crank angle sensor. No Go Borrowed a cam angle sensor. No Go Bought a code reader, says main power to DME. I do have spark, and fuel pressure, but no go... Bit worried about the CAS gearwheel on the balancer, all signs are pointing that way, it'd had a bit of a scrape, nothing much more than a few scratches... What about distance for the CAS? Simple plug and play, they don't seem to have any means for adjusting them. Bought OEM item for $42 US, no go, so 'borrowed a new one $329 no go... Replaced all 3 relays, no go. Can get a DME out of a trashed 540i, but not keen on taking it to the shop and paying top $ for parts... \Any insights into this would be greatly appreciated.

I got the coupling off, and yeah I knew it was a reverse thread. My DIY instructions said to pull the bottom pulley, or balancer off it.Kinda have to to get at the lower bolt on the water pump. "8 bolts, and give it a tap with a mallet" Now those aren't reverse thread are they? Someone's gunner have to tap a bolt out the front of the crankshaft, and access is gunner be a mish. I've done enough damage now, I'm putting my hand in my pocket and taking it to the shop. I go back to work in a few days, and will pick it up in 2 weeks when it's finished. My xmas overtime should cover most of it... I'll take it to Andy at beemer Motor Workshop, He knows a few tricks, The German Master mechanic here is pretty expensive and more 'by the book', and he's closer to the airport... But if there's an easier way, i can change the pump out, please share!

Breaking bolts. I decided to change my water pump e34 M60, pretty straight forward. Bought the pump,looked up a DIY. Left it to go back to work for 2 weeks. had the biggest mish taking the fan off it, just couldn't get that nut undone... $70 for a mobile mechanic and his pneumatic chisel, all of 15 minutes grrr! So started on the 8 bolts around the balancer, pretty tight, managed to 'pop' the torque on 2 of them, the third one broke the head off the bolt!!! So now it's a shop job, looking very expensive, I guesstimate no change from $500? gunner have to tap out the bolt! It's gunner be a mish getting at it, either take the front out of the car, or take the engine out (or find a mechanic with a rubber neck) Seems like they've locktite'd these bolts in? I'm gunner have to put it on a trailer, (or maybe a truck cos I cbf) and get it into the shop. Gunner get my headlights and driving lights replaced at the same time! There's a couple of pulleys with some playn in them, so may as well replace them too, looking at closer to $1000 now. Don't mind paying for maintenance, but damage and breakage grr me to hell and back, i do try and be careful; taking on jobs myself to save a $... And I don't even know if it was the water pump, I just decided to replace it anyway... Has anyone ever tried tapping a bolt out of the crank in situ?