BlowMyWhistle

Hi Y'all, I'm replacing the trans switch on my car, it's sticking again!

Fair enough I put a used one in it last time, this time, new and only $50 delivered, onya ebay!

But, how come some have different settings?

Mines goes 'S' 'E' $ * for snow? Doesn't snow much round these parts...

Seen some with an 'A', and an E34 I had 10 years ago had the 'S' & 'M' switches...

I'd dearly love an 'M' mode, * snow's not much use in a freaking desert!

I don't suppose it'd make a difference, buying a switch with an 'M' stead of a asterisk.

Can this be changed with the trans programme DME?

I'm looking at getting another one anyway. I asked once about getting one customised, but got dissed...

I have a problem with the gear shift, in 'E' it changes 1,2,3, just like that, and you're driving at 30k's in 3rd gear.

Also it ranges between solid lock and 4th or 5th and 4th? specially when you close behind another car, usually at about 80k's.

I usually drive around town in 'S' mode, it holds the gear a lot longer, which I prefer.

Won't change up when it's cold, til it hit's about 3k? Then jumps up to 2nd, after a minute it's fine.

Nobody seems to know much about transmissions, an I don't want anybody experimenting on it...

The German. (Peters Master Mechanic Rockingham) reckons he could tune it out, but I'm a bit reluctant to pay for theories...

Can anyone give me a clue? Is it the trans itself? In which case I'll get a 6 speed from the states!

Or just the DME? In which case I'll get a 6 speed from the states!

I can get a DME used, same numbers, but will it be snow or Manual?

I will do the 6 speed conversion, one day, but I'd like it to hold together for a bit longer, I'd hate to have to shell out $ for a repaired auto, given it'll take a while to get a Manual box from the US..

Thanks Y'all.

as shown when the interior of a 20 year old car with 250000 ks is in better condition than a 6 yr old car with 80 000 ks

Got a new valve for it! Xfingers! Killer on these 42* days!

correct fresh air only so you dont fall asleep , but some have a middle dial between the front vents to allow some wram air in the face

Cheers, new mono valve then.

I don't see it as an old car. it's 18 years old, but still like a new car!

Thought about trading to e39, but whats the difference??

Running it into the ground 300k's an counting!

most likely the heater valve unit in the engine bay is stuffed jammed up , perished seals etc.

so the hot water just keeps on flowing through the heater cores.

comon issue with these old e34 and e32 etc even in the e36 e39 e38 models

Yeah, thanks for that, guess I'm putting my hand in my pocket...

But what about the middle slide, how come that is not affected? Is that fresh air only, not thru the heater?

Hi Y'all, I know I've asked this before, but I been doing some research on it and need a quick answer...

The 3 slides for the vents, footwell, cabin and screen...

Would I be correct in assuming the central slide (cabin) is fresh air only? Not heat?

The problem is I have unremitting HOT coming from the top and bottom vents only, unless I close them.

The central slide is fine, but the only one I can have open without a blast of hot air.

My sources tell Me that it could be a) both the motor controls behind the stereo, or the mono valve.

I can get a new valve easily enough, but they not free, about $130 from USA, more on Pelicans...

Had this once in an e34 in NZ, was just a fuse!

I think it unlikely for both motors to similtaneously fail?

It'd be nice to be able to have ful air con, specially days when it's 40*C

The ear con will only blow cold thru the central vent, top open = hot, bottom open = hot.

Regardless of the temperature controls.

So why only top and bottom, not centre slide??

heater soliniods valves get stuck .

pull them apart and clean and check them or replace them.

make sure you have 12volts going to them when set at cold with engine on first.

Take it to the shop! Looked up the heater diagrams, could be temp sensors, cables etc...

Let somebody else do it, not as huge a job as I had envisioned perhaps?

Cheers

Hi Y'all, My heater controls seem to be stuck in the hot position!

I'm not sure when it started doing this, but the top slide for demist, runs hot, regardless of temp settings, cabin floor slide also is hot, same as.. Central slide allows cold air fine!

Wtf?

I had an e34 a long time ago in a land far far away (NZ) did this to me, blown fuse, heater stayed ON!

This is getting to be a pain, can't demist or use aircon without the heater pumping out heat,

can someone please give Me a lead in? Is it the solenoids or electrics??

5 years this week I've had this car, not looking forward to another aussie summer with the heater going...

Cheers Y'all.

Hi Y'all, just putting it out there, bought a house with a massive workshop.

Got my E23 735 exec sitting on ramps in the front drive, paints, peeled, just taking the trans out to replace the rear seal.

License that, already been over the pits, few minor things, bulbs, nuts and bolts stuff, not bad for a 26 yr old car!

The plan is to strip it back, just the roof, bonnet etc where the clear coats peeled.

Hope to get about $2K for it licensed, tried selling it as parts, or unlicensed, lots of interest, but dint wanna be left with a wreck.

It's no beauty, but new motor and trans 70K's ago by PO.

That's gunner fund my next expidition, retrieving my E28 from NZ. had quotes on freight for household stuff we left behind, and quotes for whole container, not a great deal of difference.

I've been here in WA for 7 years now.

Never meant to stay, so sent the E28 to a cylinder head specialist, cracked head... Mates rates turned into big $$$ once his wife got involved, so I spent best part of $2K on it. Can't give it away in NZ.

So bring it over here, got a nice set of wheels for it, clean it up abit, should get couple $K for it.

Cars are expensive over here!

That will help, or mostly fund the transportation.

Meanwhile, The E30 I bought my daughter about 4 years ago is going to my son. For his 19th, when He gets his P plates, I'm getting him; shorty headers, Bilstein sports, H&R or Eibach springs. Needs it badly, took it for a drive last week, wallows like a boat!

So that will keep me busy for a while...

Then; on my wish list is a blower and a 6 speed conversion for my 530.

Kind of toying with the idea of picking up a cheap E28 or E30 and doing a turbo on it, plenty of turbo kits on the market, but have to make a $ on it.

I've stripped an E30, sold every last little bit, stripped an e23, just for spares. Know my car inside out, so time to take on a challenge??

if you have spark that means the crank angle sensor is working ok.

so means you might not have injector pulses

unplug the cam sensor and try that.

moisture/corrosion in the ecu (have seen that a few times)

test plug in the 4L ecu will run ok.

also make sure you have a good battery that cranks fast.

could be flooded ,just keep cranking with your foot flat on floor.

pull a plug out see if its wet etc

Hi Y'all, 'borrowed a DEM from a 540 e34, no different. Peake scan tool says code 1A Control Unit Supply. Have changed the relays.. Is there something else in the electrical line I can change/ look at/ tinker with?

I tried starting it with a can of 'start ya bastard' almost fires, but not quite? Thought if it were fuel/ injectors it would fire using this?

I've booked it in to the German (Peter's Master Mechanic Rockingham) Wednesday.

Meanwhile I've changed the headlights, installed new foglights, sanded and painted the bumper. grill, and front panels, looks real nice, sitting in my garage...

The DME donor car... He paid $500 for it (T boned) sold engine and trans to E38 $9K, not a bad days work!

That's Andy Beemer Motor Works Maddington to any WA fans here!

this is from memory from about 8 months ago when i put my bodykit on, but in anycase its quite complicated procedure for what should be an easy exercise. you need to take the numberplate off first and then the two plastic pieces between the foglights and the lower grill part under the bumper, behind which you will find the front towhooks. behind there you should see a couple screws each side to undo, and then the whole front piece comes off. note that the numberplate piece and the grill-like part under it is all one big piece of plastic and the top portion just clicks on clicks off from the bumper. then from there you can take the corner pieces off and then (if you wanted to) undo the large nuts you see to remove the bumper.

yeah got it, went and checked the new part to go on, flipped the old bit out with a small screwdriver refitted the US strips, slightly shorter by about 7mm, at the wheel well end..

Hi Y'all. I am in the process of stripping the front of my car (while it's off the rd...)

I got some new bumper strips, and headlights, foglights too.

All the searches I do give me the US version, 'pry out the side lights, remove bumper strips etc.

Looked at the write up on here, but can't see where to start?

I'm not just gunner take to it with a crowbar!

Do I need to take the front trim/ number plate mount out first?

Fog lights was easy as, couple screws, nice crystal oems.

Changing the bumper strips to USA style with side lights.

But step 1, getting them off without wrecking anything...

Fuseable link?

Meh, everything else works, car's been having a holiday for a few months now, but all was fine before, no electrickle issues...

PS Have u picked up that E28 yet?

Hi Y'all, I've been off the rd for near 6 months now.

Was never in a hurry, blew the water pump, had to get help to get the engine fan off.

Put it all back together and no go.

Channged the petrol pump. No go.

Changed the Crank angle sensor. No Go

Borrowed a cam angle sensor. No Go

Bought a code reader, says main power to DME.

I do have spark, and fuel pressure, but no go...

Bit worried about the CAS gearwheel on the balancer, all signs are pointing that way, it'd had a bit of a scrape, nothing much more than a few scratches...

What about distance for the CAS? Simple plug and play, they don't seem to have any means for adjusting them.

Bought OEM item for $42 US, no go, so 'borrowed a new one $329 no go...

Replaced all 3 relays, no go.

Can get a DME out of a trashed 540i, but not keen on taking it to the shop and paying top $ for parts...

\Any insights into this would be greatly appreciated.

You don't need to take the front pulley of an M60 to do a waterpump. You won't have to pull the engine to fit a new crank flange either.

Did you know that the viscous coupling nut (32m) is a LH thread ??

I got the coupling off, and yeah I knew it was a reverse thread. My DIY instructions said to pull the bottom pulley, or balancer off it.

Kinda have to to get at the lower bolt on the water pump.

"8 bolts, and give it a tap with a mallet" Now those aren't reverse thread are they?

Someone's gunner have to tap a bolt out the front of the crankshaft, and access is gunner be a mish.

I've done enough damage now, I'm putting my hand in my pocket and taking it to the shop.

I go back to work in a few days, and will pick it up in 2 weeks when it's finished.

My xmas overtime should cover most of it...

I'll take it to Andy at beemer Motor Workshop, He knows a few tricks, The German Master mechanic here is pretty expensive and more 'by the book', and he's closer to the airport...

But if there's an easier way, i can change the pump out, please share!

Breaking bolts.

I decided to change my water pump e34 M60, pretty straight forward. Bought the pump,looked up a DIY.

Left it to go back to work for 2 weeks.

had the biggest mish taking the fan off it, just couldn't get that nut undone... $70 for a mobile mechanic and his pneumatic chisel, all of 15 minutes grrr!

So started on the 8 bolts around the balancer, pretty tight, managed to 'pop' the torque on 2 of them, the third one broke the head off the bolt!!!

So now it's a shop job, looking very expensive, I guesstimate no change from $500? gunner have to tap out the bolt!

It's gunner be a mish getting at it, either take the front out of the car, or take the engine out (or find a mechanic with a rubber neck)

Seems like they've locktite'd these bolts in?

I'm gunner have to put it on a trailer, (or maybe a truck cos I cbf) and get it into the shop.

Gunner get my headlights and driving lights replaced at the same time! There's a couple of pulleys with some playn in them, so may as well replace them too, looking at closer to $1000 now.

Don't mind paying for maintenance, but damage and breakage grr me to hell and back, i do try and be careful; taking on jobs myself to save a $... And I don't even know if it was the water pump, I just decided to replace it anyway...

Has anyone ever tried tapping a bolt out of the crank in situ?

Depends whereabouts in OZ you are coming too, different states have different rules.

I hope you are coming to WA, along with the rest of NZ.

cars are a bit more expensive here cos we are so isolated, butchew can pick one up cheap on the eastern seaboard and drive it over. Look at ebay, or car sales.

I can hook you up with a body easily, I got a mate who is stripping a few.

He has wrecks all the time, Andy at Beemer Motor Works.

just bring the parts you want and ditch the rust. A car must be able to be roadworthy if you are gunner import it, and it'll cost $3k +, which is why i have an e28 still sitting in Invercargill.

Over here a car has to go 'over the pits'. then that's it, no WOF for life, I've seen sum rust buckets getting around, they get stickered of course, but apart from that, nothing.

Dunno what the rules are in other states, but dunno about later model engines, if they could tell.

WA is the only place to be, plenty of jobs here!

Hi everyone, I have a deregistered 1990 E34 535. It is a HD12 and manual, with a LSD, leather sport seats, larger sway bars and a body kit.

What it also has however is rust; rust in the C-pillars and rear flanks as well as the doors. I don’t believe the body is economic to repair. It’s expensive enough repairing rust on structural parts you can see, let alone the stuff you can’t see and haven’t found yet.

I have no worries about the body being buggered though. My plan/project was to reshell the go-fast/look pretty bits onto a donor car: gearbox (possibly engine), plus the bits above, as well as the usual, headers, nice wheels, bushes, etc. Money aside, it was more to give me something to do, like a lego set, only bigger. I missed out on a perfect donor car a short while back, but money was tight at the time, so meh.

Problem is we’re going over to the UK for a few months, and the likelihood is that we will be going to Australia, probably to live. I can store it here if we're coming back, but if we're not...

So, my questions: Can anyone please tell me what the BMW market is like in Australia? Are these cars common over there, and what are parts availability/pricing like? My hoarding instincts and my wish to finish a project tell me I want to ship it over there and finish the job, but on the other hand, I can’t see the point if buying the parts and donor car are going to cost $$$.

I saw a similar condition and situation example go for about AUD$4k on Ebay Australia, and a friend over there has offered me what I paid for it (as well as shipping), so there are options I guess.

Also, I understand that in Oz due to emissions laws over there I cannot put an older model engine into a newer model car, even if it’s the same model of car, e.g. a 1990 535 engine into the body of a 1993 535, even though they are both E34’s. Is this correct?

My initial inclination is to not faff about, and stick it on Trademe. Of course, that’s without knowing anything whatsoever about the Aussie market, so any thoughts or advice on this would be much appreciated.

I cut out the old 'coffin muffler' from mine had fitted a 3" and a SS muffler.

It's a bit loud, bit hoony, and it does resonate, but it's a hell of a lot cheaper than $700 plus freight.

It's on my round tuit list...

certainly makes the car go a lot better!

Try jeffs.co.nz had a car moved from dunedin to queenstown for 250 I think..

Think you can do an estimate I the website.

They do weekly trips between town centres.

You'd have to come down and pull it out the container yourselves, don't expect my mate to do that for me!

Try jeffs.co.nz had a car moved from dunedin to queenstown for 250 I think..

Think you can do an estimate I the website.

They do weekly trips between town centres.

You'd have to come down and pull it out the container yourselves, don't expect my mate to do that for me!

Yeah the motor's still in it. needs a radiator, the motors been out of it, new frost plugs. Has never been started.

I'd take sum tools, it mite need a bit of TLC, it's been sitting a few years, it was prepped for storage and it's in a sea container.

And Christchurch aint that far, I've driven there and back in a night! Wouldn't be so hard to trailer it up there.

And I could have scrapped it years ago, but I spent 2 much $ on it to just dump it, better to find a good home for it!

If someone was to bring a radiator could it be driven away?, the engine is in the car?

hi Y'all I can't even give away this car.. 've had it in storage for 5 years and coulda bought a new one the money i spent holding it.

It's got a good body. touch of rust in the bottom of one door, nothing major.

I blew the head on it, and since I was gunner keep it i had it fixed, it's been x rayed, welded, straightened, and milled for that extra bit of compression, the bottom end's still good and the motor back in the car and ready to go.

It's gunner need a radiator, $500 new, anna battery.

It's a 520i and is badged as an M520i,

It's a South African build and they were known for throwing out odd models, I'm not talking it up, it's not a M5. but it's got a sports pack, spoiler, spots, sunroof recaro seats etc. Think of an e39 540i sports, they have an M badge, similar thing I guess, I've never taken the time to look it up. i didn't know much about them 7 years ago...

It's in Invercargill, in a sea container.

I could just dump it, but that'd be a hell of a waste, My loss is your gain!

I've got a mate back home has keys to the container, but come with a trailer, we're not opening up for tyre kickers!

I'll upload photo's when I get home, can't do it from here! Look up my previous adverts, This is the 3rd time I've listed this...http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index.php?act=attach&type=post&id=27298

Hi Y'all, changing the water pump. Do I use gasket goo on the gasket? or put it together dry?

I looked up a few diy links on this, and they a bit incomplete, something about changing the Orings on the pipes to the manifold and having to take the manifold off??

I'm at work now for another 2 weeks, and when I get back, guarantee everythings gunner be closed up...

Any 'how to do it properly' links wood be appreciated. Little things , like those clips on the radiator? Think I broke mine...

Cheers, Y'all.

Just a simple question, yes or no... Wouldn't wanna be waiting for a train...

Cheers for that, this has given no end of trouble for 3 years on and off, I just took the wire off and went for a long drive, peak hour down the freeway, lots of stops and starts, It ran fine, idled nicely. Tomorrow I'm gunner gobi a new one!

Problem solved fingers X.d

We've had Master Mechanics, cowboys, all sorts diagnose itr, but they all missed this...

Wood it not come up on a diagnostic scan???

It is not a cold start sensor as such but an engine managament temp sender which relays a signal back to the ECU depending on engine temp.

Is easy to diagnose - high resistance when cold (about 3kish ohms) down to around 250ish when engine at temperature. A varying reading working downwards as temp rises.

Hi Y'all. I've posted before regarding this car with it's incessant fault, the idle is all over the place, but not consistently, like a flick of the switch it will be idling normally, then 1500rpm.

Cold start, idles fast, then settles to normal 750rpm. Problems seem to start when the engine is hot??

After months, even years of frustration, car being checked out, tuned up, my daughter bought herself a Fraud escape, with Ghetto style 20" wheels...

I been driving hers, been off the road for weeks, while I'm changing my waterpump.

It's been suggested to me the cold start sensor could be the culprit?

I unplug it when the car is hot, it rages up briefly, then settles to a normal idle.

I'm guessing there's a signal sent from the sensor to the cpu and the motor, or idle correspondingly adjusts itself??

I'm gunner unplug it and see if it makes a difference??

Funny but it seems to 'come right' after I pull the temp sensor plug, then refit it..

Now my daughter doesn't want it, my son's 18, He'll take hand me downs, but useless if it's not working.

I've posted about this car before, think some may recall? If not look up my old posts...

Cheers y'all..

Hi Y'all, my 'friend' has an e36 318S, She was working night shift and somebody took her car.

But they only drove it about 5k's and left it sitting on the side if the freeway with lights on and engine running...

Bit of a Marie Celeste kinda situation.

Why go to the trouble of busting in, hot wiring it, only to dump it?

Was it stolen to order and was the wrong car ( who'd steala e36?

Or maybees, it wasn't running too good with the wiring all hacked?

Obviously they had another car, and just left it there, nothing taken, nothing damaged..

Mystery??