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Slavvy

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About Slavvy

  • Rank
    1st Gear

Previous Fields

  • Name
    Max
  • Car
    1987 635CSi
  • Car 2
    1977 Diving Board 530i

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  • Gender
    Male
  1. Specifically, facelift (post-83) e24 front bumper bracket (and bumper, has to be the 635csi sort), a driver's side window, some headlight parts, rear bumper. Anyone scrapping one of these?
  2. I need a clutch pedal (and preferably a brake pedal, but not bothered without one) for an 87 635csi. I bought some ex germany via BMWarehouse, but they don't fit and appear to be identical to early E28 pedals? This makes me think that later E28 pedals might fit. If anyone has anything like this, please PM me or contact me on 0 2 1 14 4 3 0 8 6
  3. This is a specialised clutch workshop that gets oursourced to by all sorts of places. And it's costing me 200, not 45.
  4. The most vital issue here is this: if I fit the clutch and it malfunctions somehow, who gets the blame? BnT will claim that since the parts were modified, any guarantee on their part is void. I'm certain Autoclutch would insist that it was installed incorrectly and no fault of theirs. I don't want to get stung if it doesn't work, as then I'd be down a 600 dollar clutch kit and 200 dollars of labour, and still not have a car that drives. I can't visit them in person because I work during the week and they aren't open Saturdays.
  5. I just called them asking why they did the work without telling me about it first; in response the guy repeatedly told me to quit whining and eventually hung up on me. Don't really know what to do at this stage :/
  6. I'll keep that in mind. Seems vaguely illegal that they did the work without asking me first though. What if I had wanted to take the clutch back to BnT because it was wrong? I can't anymore since they've fooled around with it.
  7. Why wouldn't it take the power of the m30 when it is a clutch for an m30? It's what I was sold when I asked for a 87 635csi clutch...I don't want it to end up not working at all because they've messed it up somehow.
  8. Some time ago I bought a single mass flywheel for an m30 (it looks like an m10 fw but with a larger front area). Recently I picked up a clutch kit to match it from BnT, and since the flywheel was old and abused I took it to AutoClutch to get surfaced; I gave them the clutch kit as well just in case. I was quoted around $45 to surface the flywheel. Today I got a call back from them, and the guy told me that 'it never would've worked if you had just fitted it because you had a south african pressure plate and a UK friction plate etc etc', which means I now owe them about $230, because they not only machined the flywheel but took apart the pressure plate and fooled around with it. They never asked me beforehand if they could do this. Do I just suck it up, fork out and learn my lesson the hard way, or is there something else I can do? It doesn't seem right that I have to pay over $200 after expecting to pay 45 without being told beforehand. Plus, if I fit the clutch now and it malfunctions, I have the feeling they'll tell me it was my fault if I try to blame it on them. The clutch kit was very expensive and I hate the thought that it's been ruined. Does anyone have any prior experience with this company or these parts?
  9. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-315734813.htm This person is auctioning an 'Alpina 635csi' cylinder head. Is this massively over-priced as I believe, or am I missing something? It seems no different to a regular big-port m30 head, except the combustion chambers appear to be the lowest compression of any I've seen; there are no squash zones visible at all. How would this in any way be beneficial/worth the astronomical price? The valves aren't any bigger than normal from what I can see (I could be wrong about this though). Can anyone shed any light on this at all?
  10. Half a turn on the wheel for minor corrections...must get pretty light up front when the turbo starts taking off.
  11. Hrm...might have to pull the sump off and swap them out then. All of them torqued up perfectly without issue, and the engine is reasonably low km's. I'll have to look into this further.
  12. I didn't, should I have? I dont know how to remove the bolts from the rods anyway, they didn't push out...
  13. Brilliant, thanks a lot guys. Just wanted to make sure before the motor went in the car.
  14. Simple question here. I recently put together an m30b34 and I put everything together according to factory specs. I took great pains to do everything perfectly and overall, I'm quite pleased with the result (fingers crossed it doesnt blow up ). I read something about big end bolts coming loose after x amount of miles (not specifically relating to bmw engines), and that certain cars specify having to re-tighten them after 1000km's. I can't imagine doing this with an m30 in a car because of the sheer P.I.T.A. factor, but now I'm nervous about my engine disintegrating after a few thousand km's. Is it a good idea to whip the sump off, take out the oil pump and re-do them with loctite, or will it be ok the way I did it (cleaned, oiled, BMW torques)?
  15. Maybe your lifters are too tight? Are you sure the cam can spin freely, or maybe you've left something loose in there? Having one of the cam cover bolts missing can also make it sound that way, the hole acts like a resonator and magnifies the sound (ask me how i know haha).
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