Slavvy

Hey guys, I've got a mate at work with an e36 coupe. He's discovered that e46 rotors are identical dimensionally but larger diameter, and now he wants to know if e46 calipers would bolt directly onto an e36. I don't know anything about 3 serieseses so I thought I'd ask here

I don't understand. The headbolts only hold the shafts to a certain extent, theyre not large enough to center the rockers on the lobes. Even if the head were on the block and tightened fully, the shafts still wouldnt be in the correct place?? I didn't have this problem with my last cylinder head because the shafts didnt slide freely back and forth.

Buuump... Come on guys, someone must be able to help me out, it can't be the first time this has ever happened.

I recently reassembled my m30 cylinder head. I've done this before and know what to do to avoid any stuff-ups (hard lessons learned last time). Anyway, now I find that the rocker shafts slide so easily in the head that the force of the rocker positioning springs causes a couple of the shafts (the intake side rear one is by far the worst) to slide partly outward. This means that the rockers arent quite centered on the cam lobes or valve stems. My engine already shows signs of this in that the wear area on the cam lobes is off-center, but now it is considerably worse and I'm afraid that if I put the motor back together bad things will happen in the head, what with the rockers hitting the cam lobe off-center and possibly missing the valves altogether. In it's current state the head is fully assembled minus the oil spray rail, and the clearances are adjusted out fully. Putting the head bolts in helps the issue but not enough to fix the problem, as the cutouts in the rocker shafts are machined to match the holes in the head and are therefore of a larger diameter than the bolts themselves. Has anyone run into this before, or know how to fix it? I can post pictures later if need be.

If you end up getting rid of the factory front brakes (I assume they're 4 pots if your car is an actual m635) I'd be happy to take them off your hands, for a reasonable price.

Nah, it's a factory manual, I got it with the gearbox still on and it still has what appears to be a factory clutch! The condition of the rest of the motor is extremely good too, like it's been babied for a decade, so I really have no idea why there's so much carnage here.

Damage looks pretty old but the flywheel does indeed have markings that perfectly correspond with the gouging on the alloy. I'll post a picture later if it's absolutely vital, how can the flywheel cause this? Does it bend or something?

Engine number is 42254397. The thrust bearings appear to be on the center main, however I don't see how it's possible for the crankshaft to move several mm and have the flywheel gouge the seal carrier without damaging the seal or the rest of the block. I can't get it to move back and forth by hand at all, and I imagine with things expanding from heat it'd be even harder

I have an m30b34 out of an e34 on a stand and I decided to replace the rear crank seal. Whip the seal carrier thingy off, and lo and behold it has been violently shaved down on the flywheel side. This was a manual car and the rest of the engine etc were in pretty good condition so I really have no idea how this happens, it's clearly something that happened while it was running (note: the chip at the bottom in the middle is *COUGH* my fault). It almost looks like the flywheel has contacted the alloy and ripped the surface to shreds; but I don't see how that's possible at all. There's no damage on the block whatsoever, and I've circled in red the places where it's blatently obvious that this isnt just wear and tear or fitting/removal damage. Manual car, dual mass flywheel that seems in decent condition. Any ideas?

My e24 635csi is at around 160000km's but the condition proves this to be a lie. My old e24 was at 340000km's when I sold it, still no smoke and pulled hard with a rebuilt head

Righto, leaving it alone.

This was my first instinct, but it seems extremely messy for it to go from an oval port to a larger circular tube in an abrupt step haha

Hey all, in the course of my project I've grabbed some tubular headers for my m30. The problem is the headers are perfectly circular, while the m30 head has smaller, oval shaped exhaust ports. My question is if it's worth the trouble to grind away the outside of the port to match the exhaust. I say 'worth it' in that I've never ported a head before and I don't want the first time to be on my mint new head. Red is the pipe, black is the port, grey is the area that would potentially be ground away. Any thoughts?

Has to be an e28 style one-piece, not the dual mass e34 type.

The car isn't mobile so I'd have to look at wiring diagrams, which means this is gonna be painful.

Well, I've reached a point I dread on my project: I have to convert the e24 to e34 engine wiring loom. I don't know where to start; the e34 loom is neatly self-contained and only connects to the rest of the car with one big connector, whereas the old one goes all over the place, splits and links back on itself repeatedly, and is generally one huge headache. I'm pretty terrible with electrical stuff and I assume someone has done this before, particularly on e28's (I assume theyre similar to the e24). Can anyone give me some tips on this before I dive in cutting things at random?

Ive found the best way is a skinny monkey wrench or whatever else happens to fit in there, and then just whack the end with a hammer. I've never needed to hold anything still/jam anything up since after a few good whacks the shock undoes it on it's own. I've also gotten into the habit of sticking some wheel bearing grease on the threads when I install the new one so it never bakes in and always comes out on the first try.

I'll find out if I can get the same sort of thing for less through other channels, if not I'll be sure to hit you up

Sweet as, I'll try to get in around then.

Just a quick question. I recently bought an m30 with a manual gearbox and the factory original(!) clutch attached. I intend to replace the clutch with a new one and I want to get the flywheel skimmed flat just to play it safe. My question is whether I can do this as per a regular flywheel as it seems to be a dual mass one, the motor etc came out of an e34 535 and the flywheel is quite clearly multiple pieces put together. Would this affect getting it skimmed at all? I don't see it making any difference but I thought I'd ask haha.

Coul you please upload pics of the boot and the dashboard area? Since I want this car for parts I'm not particularly interested in the body rust etc. Would also like some close up pictures of the front and rear bumpers since these are the main reasons I would be buying it (unless you're willing to pull them off and sell them separately). It's very important that they have no rust/crash damage.

My main reason for buying it is it came with a manual gearbox

Well I've bitten a large, expensive bullet and bought an m30 sight-unseen over trademe. The seller said he would remove it for me a few days prior to delivery so the engine wouldn't sit too long without running, which is fine by me. Now here's what bugs me. I asked him to do a compression test for me (since I won't be able to with the motor sitting on blocks in my garage) and he told me he would do it when the engine is out of the car since it's easier that way as the exhaust manifold gets in the way I've compression tested several m30's while theyre in the car and I've never had any issues with the manifold getting in the way. I also have NO IDEA how youd do a test when the motor isnt in the car; how would you get it cranking? The only thing i can imagine is running cables from a battery to the starter motor and turning it over that way. Any ideas?

I've just tested the resistance across a motronic m30 injector, an early model SOHC falcon injector, and a late model falcon one. The first two are identical in shape (but different in part number, the little nozzle isnt the same), and they both have about 39 Ohms. The later style injector, which has the same dimensions (ie same tip diameter, same height, same plug for the fuel rail etc) but different shape, was considerably less at around 29 Ohms.

Hope I'm not one of them youngin's My initial view was that if you had appropriately sized injectors and a reflashed/aftermarket ECU you wouldn't have to worry about fiddling with the fuel pressure the hard way, but I wanted to hear people more knowledgeable than me explain things. Thanks. Another question I have is whether all bosch injectors of the same shape are interchangeable. As an example, m30 injectors seem to be externally identical to falcon straight six injectors (and, as seen in another thread, mustang v8 injectors). The only difference seems to be cc rating. Obviously this means that they'd plug into the loom and connect to the rail correctly, but is there any difference in impedence which could affect the behaviour of the factory ecu? I'm meaning the electrical side of things, not the effect a lesser/greater amount of fuel would have on the engine as a whole. What a mouthful haha