Slavvy

My question is simple. Can someone please explain to me how these things actually function? As in the mechanical workings of them, and their purpose in general.

My understanding is that the pressure regulator controls how much fuel bleeds off from the end of the rail and back to the pump. Because a factory one depends on vacuum, it closes at WOT throttle and then you are theoretically running at the maximum pressure the fuel pump is capable of. If this is the case, what is the point of an aftermarket regulator? Unless I'm understanding this completely wrong, it has no ability to increase your fuel pressure beyond the amount a factory one is capable of maintaining. So if you wanted more fuel it seems like a more powerful pump/bigger injectors would make much more sense.

Can anyone enlighten me?

BNT, Auto-one, ADL etc are all mainly supplied by Automotive Supplies Ltd (ASL), the branches are known as autostop, but you can get things considerably cheaper if you buy direct from ASL/sutostop and simply ask specifically for brembo rotors. My $0.02.

Same old story.

I'm about to embark on a pretty major project that involves taking my BMW off the road for a fairly long time, so I need a daily beater. I dont care about looks, performance etc as long as it's for a grand or less, has a manual gearbox and is capable of getting warrants with little or no work. Trademe has proved pretty fruitless in this regard, so maybe BS has some junkers to flick off

http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html

Stumbled upon this on another forum, the relevant portion is under the heading 'buying shocks'. Some VERY interesting information regarding different brands, adjustability etc. The guy seems to know his stuff. Thought all the lowered e30 boys would appreciate this

If this has already been posted I apologize.

I refuse to believe noone wants this car.

is this Murrays old (white) one?

It certainly is, I tried contacting him but to no avail. When I bought it the car overheated constantly. The head was on it's last legs; upon pulling it off when it blew the head gasket, it was all eaten away around the cooling channels, really ugly stuff. Since then I've fitted an electric fan from an e36 and a viscous clutch+fan from an e32 and the temperature never goes above halfway. The bottom end also has the high compression, piano-domed pistons.

EDIT: this car now has warrantable tyres

Can't post threads, anyway.

The reverse light switch is built into the inhibitor switch on the L/H side of the gearbox. I dont have the wiring diagram at home though. Can give it to you on Monday. Ph (09) 2722546

Cheers Glenn, I'll have a look under the car when I get a chance.

Thought this was worth a shot

I'm dealing with a 1974 merc 250, automatic, and the reverse lights arent working. Voltage is reaching the fuse but not the lights so I'm assuming the reverse light switch is broken. So I pulled apart the shifter and, lo and behold, there's no reverse light switch there...it seems it is located on the trans somewhere (in my experience, automatic bmw's have the switch around the base of the selector lever). Can anyone tell me what it looks like/what I should look for?

I've always wondered this. It has something to do with the more complicated routing if it came straight off the chassis to the caliper. Would have to go through the boot ha. DAMN OUR MASSIVE BOOTS!

Haaahahaha

From looking at various BMW's, the distance between the caliper (and where it could be at full decompression) and the body is huge, whereas on other cars it isnt. Plus this doesn't seem to matter for FWD cars since they can have a much simpler arrangement in the back. Makes me wonder about late model falcons, commodores, audi, mercedes etc.

I need one, but this is on the assumption that an e28 pump would fit my e24. Realoem seems to support this theory but if anyone knows better, please say so. There's no urgency so if you have one/can get one just reply in this thread or PM me. Cheers.

I just swapped out the brake hoses (all six of them) on my car for braided steel ones and it got me thinking: what other cars have SIX hoses instead of the usual four? Is this mainly a BMW quirk or am I completely clueless and there are hundreds of other types of car rolling around with this arrangement? Logically, practically every car that has a similar rear suspension arrangement would have to have six as one big hose going from the chassis straight to the caliper would be impractical, but it's never jumped out at me before on other cars.

So am I just not very observational or is this a bmw thing? Anyone know any other cars like this?

This stuff keeps me up at night

Hey all. I'm manual converting an e24 (87 635) and it's pretty clear the pedals from the donor car (83 e23) are incompatible. Has anyone done this before or know if an e28 pedal box is the same? Better yet does anyone have an e28 pedal arrangement on hand that I could take a look at? I want to know now so I don't launch into it and find that the e24 has some sort of weird unique pedal setup and that I'm screwed haha.

...I need to turn a manual '83 e23 735i into an automatic

The auto stuff will be coming out of an 87 635csi and I'm fairly confident I can handle the mechanical side of it but I'm wondering how much of a mission it is to get it to work electrically. Is what I've described at all possible or should I forget the idea now? I'm doing this because I want the 7 to still be a running car that I can sell rather than scrapping it. Cheers.

doesn't matter that you have the auto one .

it has 2 functions one function is to tell the ecu if you are full thottle or idle (both manual and auto switches have that part)

the other part is a varriable resistor to tell the auto ecu box where your foot is on the gas pedal so it can work out when to change gear etc .

so that part will just go no where important when you convert it to a manual.

Brilliant, thank you! I assume that if i just transfer the manual sensor and connect the appropriate wires on the harness to the plug that goes with it it'd work fine? Now that I know what it does exactly I'll be able to figure it out. Thanks again.

The starter relay and flywheel sensors don't worry me all that much, as I said my main concern is throttle position sensor, located on the throttlebody. Every manual car I've seen (not that many admittedly) has a small plastic thingy a few cm across, including my e23. Every old (pre e34/32) automatic I've seen has the big rubber booted sensor the size of a tennis ball, including my e24. I just want to know what I need to do to switch from the auto one to the manual one.

Edited for pictures:

Manual sensor

Auto sensor

Hey all. I'm new and I figured I'd get right to the point and ask about some nitty gritty technical stuff I have an '87 635Csi that I'm looking to manualise. I'm pretty familiar with old bimmers but I've never manualised an m30-powered car and before I launch into something stupid I wanted to make sure I have my facts straight. The trans and everything else is coming out of an '83 735i (a shame but it's too rusty and crap to continue rescuing). Both cars are motronic, neither has cruise control.

Two things concern me: firstly, what happens to the e24 if I just yank out the auto trans computer and everything associated? Will the warning lights go haywire, will the engine run at all? My assumption is it won't even notice but I really don't know. Google isn't very conclusive on this stuff. Related to this, how do I go about switching from the large, rubber-boot covered TPS on the auto engine to the simple little switch that the manual has? ie how do I wire up the manual TPS and will the e24's engine computer accept it at all? Finally, would there be any other electrical issues I'm not anticipating?

I'm sorry if this has been asked before or if I'm not being specific enough lol