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networkn

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Posts posted by networkn


  1. @E30 325i Rag-Top In the end I settled on the F1 A2's because there was a significant jump to most of the others, non RFT's aren't an option and reviews and recommendations seem to indicate they were reasonable good. Hopefully better on the coarse chip than the potenzas (Which I do really rate for grip and feel usually). I am hoping I don't end up hating them, but I am really only less than a year out from replacing the 335D with a M340i xDrive or C43 AMG Estate. 

     

     

    • Like 1

  2. As far as I can tell, PS4S aren't available in NZ as run flats? Beurepaires is trying to sell me PS3Z?

    From the research I have done, pretty much the world over the F1 A2's and A3's rate highly. Can't get RFT in A3's apparently. A2's are also the cheapest, which isn't a priority, but a nice bonus. 

     

    Thanks for the recommendations. 

     


  3. Just a tip. "gauging interest / not in a hurry to sell / if I don't get my price I will keep" doesn't work. You paint yourself as an 'unmotivated seller' and people are discouraged from this.

    If you want more interest from the forum, this is how you list a vehicle.

    Well it's a little hard not to paint it like this, when this is simply the case (I am trying to get an idea of ballpark so I can work out what upgrade cost may be). When I get home tonight I'll put together a proper listing.

    Thanks for the information.


  4. Are you really surprised? You are trying to sell a high value vehicle and can't even be bothered to put up a photo of car.

    As a member of the forum you have made a grand total of 8 posts, so no-one knows you from a bar of soap.

    Without any further details price looks to be well above the market value for a UK import.

    Don't be upset if people aren't queuing up to throw 65k your way.

    Well, to be fair I wasn't trying to sell it actively, I was trying to gauge interest, of which it seems there is little. The lack of a photo wouldn't stop a genuinely interested party from expressing interest I wouldn't have thought, however, it's certainly possible to put one up. Is there a reason you are suggesting it's priced too high?


  5. Hi There!

    I am looking at upgrading my 2011 Touring 335i.

    Wanting 65K for it, and looking to offload it perhaps End of January. Can be a little flexible on timing.

    It is an M-Sport and runs 18" Michellin ZP RFT's.

    It's Silver. Done 35000KM's

    Was originally imported from the UK. No issues I am aware of other than the coin holder is broken.

    I'll post a picture a little later.


  6. Cost depends on whether your Diff is welded or bolted ( I have a feeling its welded from memory for your year)

    If its bolted - then its the easiest option - mine was around $1270 US (inc shipping) for a Wavetrack LSD

    So what is the downside to the LSD then? Loss of performance? I am not sure my auto mechanical insurance would allow me to modify the car like this, also unsure if it's worth while considering I'll likely replace the car within the next 12 months.


  7. Hi There!

    I have a 2011 335i Touring which I am enjoying except for it's lack of Grip.

    I was thinking it was about time I got an alignment, balance and possibly a rotation. Can I take this car anywhere (I am in Auckland Central) or should I be looking for a specific place? Do runflats require the same rotations etc that other tyres do ?

    Also I had heard that it's possible that there are newer and better RFT's than the ones I have and that these are contributing to me constantly seeing my traction control lights lighting up.

    Lastly In about 6 months I'll be looking to move this vehicle along and upgrade to something else, most likely the Audi S4 or an XDrive 335D since the 335i isn't offered as a touring here. My car is pristine and has about 25,000KM's on it, I am wondering it's value approximately?


  8. Personally, given the age of your vehicle, & the future life ahead of it - I'd just suck it up & go genuine. Do it once, do it right sorta thing. Even if you buy the genuine bar / wiring kit, & get Ray or some-one similar to fit it. Or lean on your dealer for a better price, as getting towards 2k is probably starting to take the pi$$ a bit IMO...........

    IMO, its something that really 'needs to be right' - its being bolted into critical structural points on your vehicle. Genuine bar will be a perfect match for the vehicle, & will be designed for the vehicle's MTM rating - you can't really go wrong, even if its a bit dearer.

    Thanks for all the good feedback from everyone. The reality is, there is just no way I could justify $1500-2000 on a towbar, we would simply not do it, for us it's a convenience thing, not a necessity and will only ever see occasional use. I am worried about the electrical side of things, and will check with the people making the offer. Anyone have a picture of the genuine one, and perhaps a picture of a bestbars one to compare?

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