-
Content Count
111 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Jpclarke89 last won the day on July 12 2014
Jpclarke89 had the most liked content!
Community Reputation
20 ExcellentAbout Jpclarke89
-
Rank
2nd Gear
- Birthday 03/12/1989
Previous Fields
-
Name
Jeremy
-
Location
Christchurch
-
Car
98' e36 328i Msport
Profile Information
-
Gender
Male
-
I have replaced both sensors, what reset equipment is required? Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
-
Hey guys, I recently replaced both front and rear brake pads and sensors on my e87 116i, but the (!) light on the dash is still on, even though I have reset the service lights for both front and rears. I have read a few forums online with people having similar problems, and joining the 2 wires together on the old pad sensors to clear the light, then put the new sensors back in..... But I threw the old sensors out before I read all of this. So if someone has a pair of old sensors they don't need I'll happily pay postage + a few extra dollars to save me having to buy 2 more brand new sensors. Or will getting it scanned clear this? I can't find any info online suggesting this though. Any insight would be brilliant
-
I was driving my girlfriends e87 116i a few days back and the red battery warning light appeared to indicate the alternator not charging. I turned the car off then back on and it never came back, no noises, and everything seemed to be working fine. Then today when we started it after driving up the road for a short while it came on again, this time accompanied by a loud rattling/grinding noise coming from the alternator. So there's obviously a problem with it, but it stopped making noise after a minute or so and the dash warning light disappeared. Seemed fine for the rest of the drive home. Has anyone had a similar failure to this, or any idea what would cause it to intermittently fail? My knowledge of alternators isn't flash, but I'm gathering if it was a worn bearing that would be a constant noise and probably not cause it to stop charging?
-
The contacts in the light housing weren't matching up with the contacts in the bulb housing correctly. Just had to reach inside and bend the light housing contacts out slightly. Easy fix in the end Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
-
Cheers guys all sorted Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
-
Thanks will look into it. High stop light never functions, number plate lights are working fine
-
Hey guys, So I've got an issue with my high stop light in my e36. I've replaced the bulb and it still isn't working. I occasionally get the "brake light circuit" warning on my dash but both other brake lights work fine, so I'm assuming a pedal switch failure wouldn't affect just the high stop light? Are there any other easy fix methods I could try before digging in to find a wiring issue somewhere?
-
It was awesome, not gonna lie
-
At Ruapuna Raceway in Chch today....
-
Bump
-
Thanks for clearing that up Ron, I read the output thing through some other forum when I was trying to google answers to no avail. Obviously my knowledge in this area isn't great. Hypothetically speaking (as I wouldn't consider doing this), could you run a getrag 200 or 250G with the m54b28, or would it break easily? And more realistically speaking will the Getrag S5D250G run with the b28 with no issues, as I can imagine the ZF manuals are hard to find/costly? And yes had already planned on changing the diff at the same time, thanks.
-
Excuse the noobness and repeating something that has probably been asked a thousand times, but what manual g/boxes can be used for an e36 328i manual conversion? I was looking on realOEM and unless I read it incorrectly it seemed all manual transmissions for the e36 are the same, but 325, 328, and m3 have a bigger gearbox output? Some clarification on what will, and won't work would be great
-
Bump. Prices lowered
-
Thanks, but I only need one. A stone broke it and when I had a look noticed the bracket is broken also
-
I'm after a right hand side fog light with the bracket also, for an e36 (motorsport bumper) In chch would be a bonus!