Terroth

Previous engine snapped its cambelt. Going to try and bleed it correctly again.

Its a replacement engine I bought. I don't see any oil seeping out of the rocker cover gasket and its burning so much that it would surely be noticeable? The waterpump is new, just installed it when i did the cambelt. The thermostat was off of my other M20 engine that was working fine on that engine, but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to test it on the stove.

So today I finally got the new engine cranking and started up, which was a great success. But the feeling didn't last long. I let the engine idle for 10 minutes and within that short space of time, it ran well, idled smoothly at around 600rpm, wasn't doing stupid sh*t till... It appears to be burning oil within the engine bay. Primarily it is coming from around the exhaust manifold, and it is consistent, its not like I just accidentally spilled oil on the exhaust and it needed a minute to burn, it continued to burn and burn and burn as the engine idled, however there was no white / blue smoke coming from the exhaust. The second issue is that it is running hot as f**k, as in within the 10 minutes of simply just idling, it didn't even make it to 10 minutes because it reached near red temps and i decided to turn it off. The heaters were set to full and were all cranking. The lower radiator hose was ice cold, yet the upper radiator hose and hoses leading into the thermostat were all bloody hot. So what am i looking at here? I can provide videos or pictures if that will be any help as well. The last thing I'd like to hear is that its f**ked before i begin.

Question to the E30 guys who have driveshaft loops, Did you bother with reinstalling the exhaust heat shield? Seems a bit like it would get in the way etc

Cheers Ray, sent you a PM

Alrighty, never really been to a dealer for parts but I'll find one in Christchurch and give them a ring on monday to see what they say. Do you know the correct part number i should ask for? Is it 25 11 1 434 148 or 25 11 7 527 252

As the title states, i'm after a Z3 1.9 Short Shifter to bang into my E30, doing a complete shifter rebuild so I may as well go the extra mile and get a shorter throw. I've read amongst the forums that its a much better throw than the trademe Jobbies, which apparently shift like crap? Anywho, located in Christchurch, will pay shipping, preferably new or barely used, not completely sold on the idea, depends on price. If no one has one I'll likely be contacting speed to see what they would charge for one.

I can't help you here, but out of curiosity, what size tyres did you fail on? And what size tyres are required for an 8" rim?

Thanks for that Tim, i know more than enough about the process of replacing the belt, and have done it before, but the sarcasm is appreciated. I was more concerned about the movement in the cam and not the crank after i had removed the old belt and readjusting it back to the marks that i had it set to before i did so, and whether it was of concern or not, but obviously you didn't read my post. Cheers :)

Yeh sorry, M20B25. So it should just line up again when i install the new belt and tension it? Cheers.

Took off an old timing belt today in preparation for when the new one arrives. I had both the Cam and Crank at TDC, however after removing the tensioner the cam seems to have moved 1 - 2mm out, approximately half a tooth forward, while the crank has stayed at TDC. Would it be best to leave it till i install the new belt with accompanying tensioner, in hopes that tension will bring it back into alignment? What other ways are there to adjust the cam back to TDC before installing the new belt? Ie reinstall the old belt, adjust the cam back to TDC and then take it off and adjust the crank back to TDC without the belt? Got myself a bit confused here. I know that half a tooth out isn't damage worthy if it were to be driven, but I don't feel like risking it and I have plenty of time to fix it up. Cheers

So i have years to wait for my parts from Pelican. Unfortunately I have had a terrible experience with them. I ordered my parts on the 23rd of November, was estimated a shipping date of the 5th, which I was ok with as some parts required shipping to their warehouse. Then, when i contacted them regarding the lack of shipping and information, it turned out some parts had still not arrived by the 5th, nearly 2 weeks after I had ordered them, and I was still waiting. Then this weekend they buggered up payment on their side, and had I not been obsessing over when these parts were going to ship wouldn't have found out till around now as they did not even inform me about the issue. After contacting them and having it fixed, finally, OVER 3 WEEKS after i ordered the parts they have been shipped. But the issues don't stop there. They have charged me for faster shipping (FedEx 4-6 Day shipping that I had chosen), yet have shipped my order Via USPS International 10 Day shipping, which is even more infuriating. Having ordered these parts, having them go through customs when they get here (Total was $900NZD (Around 450USD for parts and added 130USD for shipping) means at best, I'll get my f**king parts next year due to the Christmas and New Years holidays and Postage / present shipping rush. Learned my lesson though, ill order locally next time and pay the extra than ever go through them again. I suppose what I'd like to know is what should I do regarding the car while i wait, what can I prep, clean, refurbish ETC while I sit here twiddling my thumbs and waiting for sh*t to arrive? This was supposed to be a project all finished up before Xmas, unfortunately at this rate i'll be lucky to finish it within the next month ;/ Incredibly infuriating to say the least.

Oh well, i settled for the heavier flywheel, although I realised it is not likely a stock lightened flywheel, as it has the crank sensor tab on it, so likely taken from another earlier motronic model, as I had a little flip when i realised i had gon an gotten my flywheel without a tab machined and saw the tab on the other, only to realise that if its Motronic 1.3 setup it doesn't need a tab. I've had a look through your build, and I'm definitely not taking on any project quite like yours thats for sure, plus its my daily car that I have to travel between CHCH and Dunedin in quite often due to study, borrowing the miss' car is no fun, and previously being stripped for track use before this build, it was not a pleasant 400KM drive, and It'll only see some minor track time after this, if any, so I'm not worried about the flywheel and clutch setup, its not exactly a big motor pushing high ponies.

I am not swapping over looms from the B25 as the m20 looms are apparently the same, so should have no issues there. Also the car is non abs so If I do have to swap over the looms I will just delete the ABS wire. Cheers for the information.

How would it handle as a M20B25 flywheel then, quite light / high revving? If thats the case I'd rather go for my m20b20 one as it looks to have a lot more meat on it, and i'm already running a getrag 240 with a 4.1 diff so 1st and 2nd are going to be f**ken short as it is. Plus the car is going to be daily'd, so I'd rather not have a super grabby clutch / flywheel setup that will suck dick during traffic

Cheers Jib, good to know so i don't go out and waste my money. The M20 Flywheels are the same between the 2.5 and 2.0 correct? Both engines are motronic Facelift 1.3, just my current flywheel off the 2.0 looks to be in much better condition and the flywheel i recieved with the 2.5 appears to be a bit too light and missing a lot of mass on the engine side of the flywheel, only weighs in at 6.3kg's too according to the trusty bathroom scale.

I have a Non ABS loom in my car, which I know for certain due to some dodgy roads in Dunedin leading to some dodgy braking. I recall the previous owner advertising ABS delete lines, but I'm guessing if I have a non ABS look and an ABS engine going in I should have no issues? Thanks for informing me mate, haven't put the new engine in yet as am waiting roughly 2 weeks for replacement parts.

All very good points, it'll be something to think about when it comes closer to the time. Cheers Andy

Cheers Allan, must've just glazed over that part and hoped to high hell that I wouldn't have to get them, pity really, seeing as the bloody driveshafts are practically the same besides length. Has anyone got experience using those trademe Universal driveshaft loops? Or is it best to just get them fabricated professionally? 150MM rearward of the drive shaft universal would mean that it would be mounted 150mm to the rear of the Center support bearing, or 150mm rear of where it meets the transmission?

Although it is in the distant future at this point in time. I would like for this car to be legal as after putting so much money into it, it would be a shame if it was stolen or crashed without a cert, and Insurance would likely not pay out. Sooooo, regarding certification, using OEM replacement parts is obviously fine. I've had a read of the engine conversion information available on the LVVTA website, as well as the Driveshaft Loop section, and am wondering. Given the stock power output - For safety sake we'll use the lowest output of the 2L engine and highest of the 2.5L, but more than likely between 120-130 for 2L and 160-170 for 2.5L, and the Driveshaft loop requirement section as of 2011 states that a driveshaft loop is required when there is a significant increase in power or torque, which is defined by "A significant increase in power or torque in a low volume vehicle is considered to be over 50% of the vehicle’s factory power output.". That means that, even with the engine conversion, and having originally had a 320i in it, there is technically speaking not a "significant increase in power or torque" as Original engine 50% 120HP = 60 50% of 164NM = 82 New engine power output 170HP 226NM A 50% Increase would therefore have to be 180HP and 246NM of torque, meaning that driveshaft loops are not required as technically stated by the Driveshaft loop section of the LVVTA standards. Or have i just completely misinterpreted this in hopes of saving a few extra $$ on installing these bloody things and they are required no matter the engine conversion? Links to sections in question LVVTA Driveshaft loop Requirement Classification http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_09-2011_Drive-shaft_Safety_Loop_Requirement_Clarification.pdf Engine and Drivetrain Conversion section in question http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Engine_&_Drive-train_Conversions.pdf Any help regarding this legal side would be amazing, and if anyone has gone ahead and installed driveshaft loops, did you use universal trademe jobbies or get them custom made to suit? Cheers again guys

Cheers Andy, I think I will save that for another payday, at the moment the bill is coming up quite large. I am going to use Pelican Parts and pray to god that nothing goes wrong regarding shipping. Their pricing, easy shopping and parts availability are quite nice, especially regarding rebuilding the shifter mechanism due to all its fidgety and small parts. Its like doing some clothes shopping online really haha. I will definetely be replacing the fuel filter straight after I get the engine up and running again, as I am not sure how old it is (285K KM old potentially), due to the fact that this will be the third engine this car has seen (Previous owner having overheated the original engine and getting it replaced by a shop in Auckland). Just noticed that a new fuel filter is only 17NZD from Pelican, into the stockpiled cart it goes

Distributor rotor and cap appear to be fine. Fuel filter is the filter that is behind / near the rear suspension correct?

Cheers all for the replies, hadn't checked this topic as I thought there wasn't any. I am part way through the swap, and have successfully pulled out my old engine without too many issues so far. Fairly proud as i had previously not done much more than basic maintenance. As for the loom, I have both the current 320i Loom in my car as well as a 325i Loom that i got when i purchased the engine. I have checked over these two and they both appear to be exactly the same. As for the headers / Exhaust, my current headers and the ones i received with the 325i Engine also appear exactly the same, are you certain the downpipes are different? As i have a dual pipe leading down to the mid section muffler ( or cat, not too sure at this point ) followed by a custom 2.5" exhaust through to the back, so I dont think i will have any breathing issues. Obviously i've ran into a few hitches along the way, the exhaust headers wouldn't unbolt from the downpipe so I had to just manouver them out of the way when removing the engine, wasn't nearly as big of a hassle as I had imagined, but now that there is more space it may be easier to do so, with the steering in the way its a right pain to get a good angle. One of the engine mounts ripped completely out, the threaded rod + plate that is connected to the rubber mount just ripped out completely on one side with a little shake once the hoist was hooked up. Must of been deteriorated to crumbly weetbix before the removal. Some of the hoses had deteriorated as well, and broke off. I am about to order in some replacement parts, if anyone has some recommendations as to what i could add to the order that'd be primo. So far i am just ordering New shifter bushings etc New P/S / Alternator belts Cambelt, Waterpump kit New Engine mounts Clutch kit New Flex disk New Exhaust manifold studs / nuts Oil / Air filters Spark Plugs Any other refresh parts i should get while I am at it?

After some recommendations E30 325i clutch, what recommendations do people have and where to purchase? Timing belt and water pump, same thing. Finally, who should I contact regarding parts, OEM etc, as well as for aftermarket parts? List of suppliers would be great. Cheers

Oh yeh of course, forgot to mention ill definitely be getting an engine crane to pull it out, not many muscles on this frame so won't be manhandling that sh*t. What companies would you guys recommend for specific parts, IE clutches, gearbox bushings, gaskets etc? Cheers