wtbdeath

I just reseted my E46 and E90 adaptions, WOW! what a difference! now they both drives like BMW should ! smooth engine all the way to redline. My E46 usually kinda jerkey at low rev, and the VANOS seals were bad. After replacing VANOS seals, idle was fine but still jerking a little bit, I thought it was my dual mass flywheel on it's last leg but WOW, it is engine adaption. I was using #98 all the time, maybe the adaption was from the previouse owner driving style + bad vanos seals, I don't know, but it made a HUGE difference! I rested via INPA. If you are near Birkenhead and don't have tool, I can do it for you (free of charge), just drop me a line. Can do E36, E46 E90, others I will need to check as never done before. Edit: forgot to mention I also have ICOM tool (dealer grade) , if you want your car be scanned for codes, I can do it for you (free of charge), only works if it is OBDII connector ( no E30 etc.)

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Suits E46 M54 or M52TU 6 cyl engines Maybe also suits other models it is a full genuine BMW set cold climate PCV full set is 6 pieces part numbers: 11 61 7 533 400 Genuine BMW 11 15 7 532 628 Genuine BMW 11 61 7 504 536 Genuine BMW 11 61 7 533 398 Genuine BMW 11 61 7 533 399 Genuine BMW Also includes oil stick o-ring Genuine BMW brand new , $260 if pick up $15 to send around.

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Hi guys, I have a full set of Bilstein B8 sport dampers for E48 sedan and coupe, would work great with m-sport springs or lowered springs, not recommended on standard springs (non m-sport) Fronts has built-in bump stoppers and you will need to re-use your rear bump stopers. part numbers: 1x 35-115069 1x 35-115076 and 2 x 24-026987 (rear) $1650 pick up from Birkenhead or buyer pays shipping, will sell until mid Aug. borrowed pics from internet since they are brand new anyway. Cheers, Nick FRONT: REAR:

it is repairable but I wouldn't recommend it as the vacuum vavle may also leak, which repair kit doesn't address. Better to just get a new unit. Ebay is a good place to start.

The point of this post was for whoever was thinking about a transmission oil change, they should change it, if it is over 5 years, or 100k, sooner the better. No many people doing it proactively until it is too late, it can be totally avoided and at a very reasonable price.

Knowing what you are doing and do it cheaply is a common good practice I heard. The reason "must" have the "correct" oil is because most of the oil on market are not compatible. The replacement oil is not even available in NZ. Dealers quoted $63/L for lifeguard , semi synthetic , as trade account, I could get ~$40/L , but still much expensive than full synthetic Pension ATF1 replacement at $20/L. For 1/3 of the price if using correct part, I could replace it 3 times as my wish and maybe still save some penny for beers.

I decided to do a oil change on my 330i , with ZF 6 speed transmission. The car is 2005 with 189k on it, on original transmission oil, of course.... Anyway, bought 10 litres of pentsion ATF 1 (full synthetic) rather than ZF Life guard , because: 1, it is cheaper. 2. it is full synthetic. Also bought ZF filter kit. I changed oil only first, the oil came out was nasty, car was having hard shifting from 1-> 2 and not so smoothing shifts after that. Filled in 4.7L , car felt good, shifting after 2nd is super smooth, but still feel 1->2 some times bit hard. Drove about 500km, dropped pan, did full filter change. Now, is the interesting part, the 2 magnets on the filter are FILLED with black fine dusts / shavings , I don't think it can hold any more than that, I am glad I changed it. put on new pan and bolts, I can see have a very very very minor leak from the sealing sleve, if you know what I am talking about, anyway, didn't buy that part and just left it as is. Filled in 5.5L back to transmission ( reused 0.5L of old oil) , the oil came out prety good, I thought TC would hold some old oil and would be black, but not the case here. I didn't reset adaption, no need to do it anyway, for the first 200km, I can tell the transmission is getting better and better, and after 500km, the hard shifts are totaly gone, shifts through all gears super smooth! Total job is around $500 , I would do it again 40k later (changing the sealing sleve, otherwise I will just change oil, about $100 job). Well worth the money IMO. Edit: From what I read on internet, ZF lifeguard is just semi-synthetic , I don't think it will work after 10 years, or 100k. It is thin oil to provide better fuel enconmy but the ATF1 I use didn't go any worse, I average 10.5L/100km for combined driving and drive it as it is meant to be driven...

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Hi guys, It seems I bought too many bottles I have 4 bottles (5L) spare, all sealed, BMW-LL01 approved $320 for all 4 bottles or $83 / each Cheers, Nick

I think it is a tiny bit lower than M Sport suspensions. A good choice for DD. It is for 6 cylinder, will fit 4 pots as well, the difference is they need stronger springs for 6 as engine weights more.

Hi guys, I have a set of brand new EIBACH Pro Kit lowering springs , still in box $360 pick up from Birkenhead or Rosedale Fits Sedans and station wagon. Not for Ti models. model number E2067-140 Or buyer pays shipping. Will post more pictures later. Cheers, Nick

You are right narrorwer gap will be more stable, to an extend, depends on which oil you are talking about, for average joe oil, yes it is correct. The point of getting 0w40 ($98/5L) rather than 5w40($80/5L) is not the price, it is how much group IV PAO is in that oil, from what I have read, castrol 0W40 has much more PAO content (if it is not a true synthethic) than the rest of the castrol EDGE range, (except GC 5W30) , which means, natrually, with higher PAO content, it does not need much VI improvers to achive wide SAE range. Let's step back for a second, even at $98/5L ,which means roughly $30 more than the cheaper 5W40 , or Penrite per oil change, the gas saving will pay back itself well enough, PLUS you have better oil anyway.

I am in Auckland, my manual actually says "BMW recommends the use of oil classified SAE 0W-X or SAE 5W-X in this case X stands for any upper value, e.g. 30,40 or 50."

This weekend I bought 20 L of Castrol 0w40, did oil changes on my dad's E90 and my wife's E90, both felt very good, very very smooth engine. I would recommand doing oil change every 10k, My wife's one had 8k since last oil change at the dealers, I can still feel a good improvement after oil change, at the mean time, I can see the old oil is pretty useable. My dad's one is another story, last oil change was 40k ago, oil becomes very very bad, the new oil completely transformed the car, I am not joking. So yeah, after a good 3 weeks on bobistheoilguy, I figured that I should go with LL-01 APPROVED oil AND choose an oil to my liking. Not all LL-01 are equal. So no Penrite for me.

6 cylinder I guess, you can pass me your last 7 digits VIN I can look up for you.

Now I see, most of people like Penrite because engine stopped burning oil, it is a side effect as the oil it self being thick. Castrol 0w40 does NOT have same thickness as Penrite 0W40, they are same weight, yes, but "40" is a range, not a number.

I will hold it until sombody pays me. EDIT: BTW, are you suspecting you have vacume leak? From PCV system? The common place it would vacume leak is the hose from vavle cover to PCV, usually break at about 5cm around that 90 degree angle thing, if you know what I am talking about. Otherwise, apart from rough idle, the rest of the system would cause oil leak rather than vacuume leak. The hoses on top of intake manafold do break but unless you wiggled it recently, they usually can just stay there fine.

I think going with solid subframe mounts is a very wise move, it does not increase VNH a lot, as long as you don't put on solid mounts on drive chain . Solid mounts also decrease the chance of damaged floors if you are talking about E46 or E36

This is partially true, yes, you have to pay BMW to approve oil, but hey, think as a oil company, would you rather paying BMW to get it approved so you have more customer or you prefer your customers doing the guess game? In order to pass LL-01 approval, the oil has to go through a set of specific tests on specific BMW engines under specific conditions. Not all A3/B4 oil can pass that, not all A3/B4 oil is VANOS compatible. The only way to make sure? is having that LL-01/ 04 approval tag on oil can. Is that particular weighted approved oil suits your car in your climate zone? You will have to work it out yourself. Yes, I know BMW says as long as it is LL-01 , it is fine, yes it is FINE, but is your engine working at optimal level? I don't think so. Penrite is always on the thick side of 40 if I am not mistaken, rate "40" is a range, not a number, so Castrol 40 is about 13.5 @ 100C while Penrite 40 is around 14.9 @100C, you will notice further fuel consumption drop if you switch to Mobil 0W40, as it is around 12.6@100C , it is not too much to do with short driving as unless you only drive it 10 mins, otherwise they will be at working temperature anyway.

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Genuine one pair, sealed. $80 part number 22322282340 $5 NZ wide overnight courier.

Yep, looks like my understanding is correct, we can use premium 0w40 for the oil. 0W40 has better VI than 5W30 which means the visity curve is better $258 /20 L for HPR5 and $298/ 20L for Premuim 0W40, I guess the extra $40 well worth it! Here is the reply from Penrite Dear Nick, As this car is well outside warranty we can be a bit flexible but still need to respect what BMW want in the engine. If we put aside the LL-01 specification you are going to need more frequent oil changes than would have been allowed under that spec. You could check this with BMW. The attached graph shows FS0W-40 to be a good alternative to HPR 5 in terms of viscosity and, of course, it uses better quality base oil than that found in HPR 5.