Valvebounce

Damon at rocky auto on port hills Rd has experience with BMW. He's a top bloke, and pretty handy on the spanners too.

Just last weekend actually!

Thanks! I'm quite keen to list on trademe soon and move it on. I own nine cars at the moment, and life will get so much easier if I can make that seven.

Has current wof and reg too

Looking for some advise as to how much I should be asking for my nz new E34 525i. It's and 88, first reg Jan 89. Factory manual. 268k on the body, unknown on the motor. (It's an M20b25) previous owner swapped the motor from on which had suffered an electrical fire. New engine was mint inside, (someone had had the head recon, but not Crack tested) I got it not running and got to go. But then had to swap all.the parts onto another head because the one someone had rebuilt was cracked through the cam tunnels. Bore looked good when the head was off. New head gasket/bolts/ valve seals blah blah etc. The good, Nz new Factory manual Lush red leather interior The bad, Has a choppy idle (might be an air leak, I've bought one new breather hose but never fitted it) Fuel flap hinge is busted. Clear coat on bonnet and boot are a bit cooked Has some petrol smell. How much should I.Ask? Sorry about the potato photos.

I actually removed lots of Alarm stuff from the car a while ago. There was an Alpine alarm that is now kicking around my garage floor. Although it had a siren, but it's the horn that gets it's noisy on. I probably wont get the chance to f-k with it til the weekend now.

How do I remove the rear seat? I've never actually looked under there, since my battery is in the engine bay.

So after I figured out how to make the car run, and not have the horn sound after refitting the battery, I have a new gremlin. My central locking now doesn't work, (Can't even lift the knobs to unlock them from inside) Sunroof don't go, And wipers only work on full speed. I absolutely had get gas, and I never new that the central locking also controlled the fuel flap too. So now I have a broken fuel flap hinge too. (Something I'm not stoked about!) These three problems are clearly linked. (I've found in the past that I can't open (or close) the sunroof while the window is going up of down) therefore it stands to reason that they're interconnected. Anyone had this problem before?

My dash warnings are back to english too.

Thanks Neal. Uncle google had some other process. What I just tried was locking the doors, and then connecting the battery. Then unlocking the door with the key. Presto no hoot hoot hoot. And the engine even started. WIN. Mine is a very early E34 (1988) So it's often different from the ones on the WWW. Mine even has the battery in the engine bay, instead of under the seat. (Although that may have changed with the M50 changeover?)

I have an E34. The battery went flat for one reason or another. (I don't actually drive it much) I charged the battery up. Today I slapped the battery back in. The moment I opened the door, the horn starting tooting. Parp! Parp! Parp! Parp! etc. I already removed an aftermarket Alpine alarm from it. I tried to start it while the horn was sounding. But it wouldn't fire. (Strong smell of gas at the tail pipe)d any I never received any remotes of any description when I bought that car either. The PO is a mate who says he never had that problem.. Help.

That scoat is burned oil. if it doesn't hok out blue smoke when you rev the clacker off it, then you probably just have rooted valve stem seals. Also, if you're desperate, I have a m20B25 shortblock that has the crank pulley, chopper wheel etc still on it if you get stuck.

Any more ideas peeps? When It very first starts, it idles great for 30-45 seconds. Then it gets that choke on too hard/almost sounds like a miss sound about it. I wonder if the tappets are too tight?

Anything can be fixed. if it were me, I'd drill the broken out part of the bolt out. Maybe start with a small hole, and try an easy out first. sometimes when a bolt loses it's head the tension goes, and they undo easy as. I used to run 12.9 tensile cap screws (loctited in) on the flywheel of my old supercharged Datsun engine. One time after a monster over rev at the drags they flywheel came loose. (Those motors are known to do that) Most of then had the heads broken off. I was sh!tting broken glass about drilling them out on account of how hard they are. But they undid easy as. If an easy out doesn't work, then you'll need to drill it right out. Make sure you get the center punch mark in the centre of the bolt stub. Start nice and small, and work your way up. Get a mate to help sight for you, so you know that you're drilling parallel to the crack axis. Keep going up in size until it's out. I dunno how much room you'll have in your engine bay. (Might be an engine out job) If the shout of the crankshaft has fretted, whack it back together with generous lashings of loc-tite bearing retaining compound. "If at first it doesn't fit, fill it up with glue and sh!t".

Checked it how?

Yes. It does kind of buzz. Is that good or bad?

I think it's idling around 650. I don't think there is any change when the engine is warm. The ICV might buzz. I've been doing battle with this car for a while now. I might duck outside now, and see if it does.

I got some carb cleaner, and got the AFM, and ICV spotless. I also held the rubber elbow up to the light, and checked to see if it had any holes. Put it all back together, and made sure all the hoseclips were both properly seated, and correctly tightened. Still idles like a Carburated engine with the choke out. Any other ideas?

Cheers fullas! The guy I bought that car off has a brand new can of throttle body cleaner. I might see if he'll unroll his foreskin and let me borrow it. (Since he sold me such a lemon in the first place!) lololol

So after a lengthy break from trying to make my e34 go, I made time this weekend, and found success, However, it runs kinda choppy at idle. Not really how an old luxobarge should idle. A brief skim of the forum found a thread about cleaning the idle air valve. I guess that's a good place to start. Would brake kleen be OK to use for this? What else should I try? Many thanks, Bart.

Me again. Seemed like I had everything dialed. I was on my way to drop it off at a mates tonight, so hae could take it for a wof tomorrow. Just as I was pulling onto an expressway, it stopped. Leaving me stranded on the side of a bust road in rush hour, with no tools in a car three years out of WOF and REG. By the time I was able to find a rescuer to tow it home for me, I was out of enthusiam to try fix it today. My plan of attack is, Check fuel and spark. And I'll check the Crank angle sensor. (Both the Gap, and the impedence 641 ohms) I may also try putting some fresh fuel in it too. (The 8 litres of gas in it is three years old) What other stuff should I look at? I'm actually pretty new at EFI. Any input or suggestions apreciated.

I had another go, and the head broke clean off the bleed screw in the rad. scored another one today ($9.20 inc gst) and filled it with anti freeze. Took my time untill I has dead sure all the air was out. The heater only went warm after I drove around the block a few times. I'm quite releived actually. It hasn't had a wof since 2012. With a bit of luck that might change this week.

So my nightmarish ordeal with my E34 is potentially at an end. A car I bought as a non runner, then got runing only to find the head was cracked, then had my Ebay head gasket set purchase not turn up, then had to swap everything from the cracked head to another one and put the car back together is all done. I was pleasantly suprised with the sonofa whore even started with minimal cranking. I elected to replace the radiator with a nicer one, since I got it for next to nothing, and mine had a stripped air bleed bung. fitted that up today, and filled up to cooling system with water, sans thermostat. (I wanted to try a flush some of the oil residue out of the block which was forced into the cooling system via the cracks through the cam bearing tunnel) I ran it for a bit, with the garden hose in the header tank. Cracked the nipple on the t/stat housing, and opened the air bleed on the radiator. Ran it for a bit, giving it a few revs. (some crap floated out of the air bleed on the rad) Closed them up, and checked the temp gauge. It was registering a little bit on the gauge. But the heater was stone cold. Shut down the engine. And fitted the new thermostat I'd bought for it. (After so much heartache and misery, I'm not taking any chances) Did the same again. Closed up the bleed ports, and went to a tutu around the block. The gauge got up to a gnats cock over halfway. But the heater still only blew stone cold. It feels like the hose from the water pump discharge port that runs up over behind the distributer doesn't have any water in it. give it a sqeeeze, and it really only feels like it has air in it. When I bled it up with the cracked head still on it, the heater worked mint as. Anybody got any advise? I DO NOT want to root this head too.

The four shim/sealing washers were indeed for the two temp senders. A spare t/stat housing I have also had an extra pair of hex bungs in it which would account for the other two washers. The baby O ring is still a mystery.

I just unbolted the thermostat housing whole when I had the head pressure teasted. I was concerned about torquing the head down, only to find I'd missed something which couldn't be done insitu. Many thanks for the input guys.